Ring and pinion home installation

[xtremesports]

I have a 2002 TJ running 31 inch tires and the stock 3.07 gears, a Dana 30 front and Dana 35 rear. With this gear/tire combination 5th Gear is a joke. I don't rock crawl, just mud and trail riding.

I want to swap out with a used set of 4.10 gears that look like new and possibly a Factory Trac-Loc in the rear. The problem is I have called every repair and transmission shop for 60 miles around and nobody will install them. Is this a job for the shade tree mechanic? I know measurements are very important installing but I am desperate. Are their any speciality tools I will need?

If it is too much to handle does anyone know any good shops in the southeast that can install? I live in the North Georgia Mountians.

Thanks for ANY input!
George

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2002 Jeep Wrangler X, Basher Front Bumper, JKS Quicker Disconnects, Protec Rear Bumper, Steel Horse Trail Rack (repainted of course), Street Lock 15x8 Rims, 31x10.50, KC Slimlites

[dharper]

Im looking at doing the same install but with 4.88 the price I was quoted was 250.00 an axle and that was if i had the overhaul kit and the gears already. The swapp is pretty tough. If you do a search for youkon gear & axle they have a complete tool and installation guide in acrobat reader format that you can download and read. if i new how to attach a file I'd send it to you, its pretty informative but it also shows how big a job this is. I decided to save for a few months and have a garage do the install.

[Blupupher]

Well, it is one of those things if you have to ask, don't do it. It is very tricky to get it right, Some of that "ole' black majic" involved to getting it right. .
But seriously, if you don't know what your doing, it can be VERY hard to get them set right. If you do it wrong, they will destroy themselves and you get to do it all over again, hopefully it does not destroy your whole diff. Not trying to scare you away from it, just some advice cause you asked.

[jeff mclain]

setting up r&p can be difficult but if you take your time and have the right tools it isnt that bad. you need a pinion depth mike and a dial indicator. any rear end supply should sell you one they are high but cheaper than paying some one to do install. be very citical on pinion depth. most gears have a measurement scribed on them either a number like 2.65 or they have a + or - like +.002 this is where that pinion was set up if you mike that pinion shim you can get a idea where to start. say your old pinion had +.002 on it and your new one had -.002 you would need .004 less shim. if you get lucky and both gears are marked the same use same thickness shim. ive set many gears up and that really helps you know where to start but always check w/ micrometer. backlash is easy to set just be sure to check at least three places on ring gear then check pattern. i like to put every thing together with no seals so you dont ruin one if you have to change anything and you can better feel bearing preload if your pinion uses shims for preload

[deadpedal]

I agree with Blupupher, if you're not comfortable doing it yourself, then don't do it. You will probably require additional (specialized) tools, that you will rarely ever use again after this install. This is also assuming that you actually pull off the install successfully.

If you do happen to find a mechanic that will perform your installation, try and get to know the person behind the wrench, communicate as much as possible with them and show as much interest as you can in the installation. Who knows, you just might learn something from the guy (or gal) doing the job. You might even get enough info out of them to perform your own ring-and-pinion job in the future.

[rockmup]

You can't find anyone to do the install because the gears are used. Thats my guess. I have had enough trouble with people not liking the noise that used gears tend to make that I won't do it either.I first learned how to do them because a freind showed me.If you can find some one with some exp. then go for it. It's not that hard to do really you just need to take your time. But I would not waste my time with used gears. You have no way to tell if they are cracked or anything. Just my 2cents. Good luck

[deadpedal]

If you are stuck on using used gears, get them magnafluxed first, this way all of the cracks show up. Anyone familiar with doing a serious engine install will know that a magnaflux test is when a [good] machine shop runs a current through a used block and "dusts" the block with metal filings. The filings have a stronger attraction to even the tiniest cracks or stresses, so when you see a line of filings in a flux test... watch out, you got a bad block. The same test can be done with any fair-sized piece of forged or machined steel. Flux tests are obviously only for steel parts. Similar tests can be done for alloy or aluminum parts too though. I won't bore you w/ details..... :roll:

[rockmup]

Thanks for the info. I'm aware of magnafluxing but by the time you figure in the cost for the gears and the manaflux,why bother? There is also the issue of noise. It happens with used gears from time to time so for me it's not worth the trouble.

[deadpedal]

Thanks for the info. I'm aware of magnafluxing but by the time you figure in the cost for the gears and the manaflux,why bother? There is also the issue of noise. It happens with used gears from time to time so for me it's not worth the trouble.

That's why I don't install used parts. :D

[Joker®]

One other option is to swap out the axles, either same/same or upgrade to a more beefy axle.