Making Brake line for a 73 CJ-5

[davelenard]

The line running from my master cylinder to the rear has cracked.

Does anyone make replacements? 4wd said go to NAPA, get line and bend it.

I need to know what size line and connectors, what other tools will I need to make this happen?



Thanks

:roadkill:

[Mudslinger73]

The best way to repair these lines is to measure the length following along the bends and curves it travels now. You don't have to be real accurate to the 1/8 inch or any thing , just get it down to the inch.Then remove the lines. It would be a good idea to purchase 'line wrenches' as the are made special to grip the fittting hex nut in more places than a regular open end wrench and this will reduce the chances of rounding off the old fitting.Use the line wrench to break the fitting loose and then you can use a regular open end wrench to turn the fitting the rest of the way out. If you end up rounding off the fitting, don't panic,you can use Vice Grips to get the fitting out of the master cylinder and the wheel cylinders. The hex end isn't as important as the threaded end , because they will match up the threads and size to go into your old cylinders.Then you can go ahead and remove the lines. If you can't disassemble them just cut them out. BUT do it in as few pieces as possible and lay them out beside the Jeep as this will give you a pattern to start bending the new tubing. Soooo you get your length AND take the fittings on each end of the lines to the parts store . They will be able to match up the lines you need with the correct fittings on them and fix you up with the connectors that will enable you to take several lines to get the lenght you need total. It would be a good idea to look at where the old lines were connected together and see if that is a good spot to get to at a later time for a fix. if you damage a line later and want to take it apart it's easier if you can get to the fittings instead of trying to reach in behind the cross member because the lines are joined up in some bad place.Get an idea on what lengths the lines will need to be.While you're at the parts store get a 'tubing bender'. a tool that will make it possible to bend your new brake lines without smashing them shut at a tight bend. the benders will be sized for your lines and may fit other sizes also.Another good idea is to use never sieze (buy at parts store) and put it on the threads of your nice shiney new fittings so THE NEXT TIME, they are easier to take apart.Not rusted into one mass of metal.Use that stuff on just about everything you take apart on your Jeep, saves time because if you keep this rig long enough you WILL be doing most jobs again.When you get the new lines home try to bend them to match the bends in the old line.Fit them up under the Jeep in the short sections as you bend them and don't be afraid to make some changes that will make it a better installation. Just keep them from being too close to the exhaust pipes. Boiling brake fluid isn't a good thing.
BEFORE you start hooking up the new lines..go back under the Jeep with something that you can put on the wheel cylinder bleeder, maybe a small deepwell socket, and crack it loose now because it's easier to get to it without the brake line fitting in place.because you WILL need to bleed those new lines out.
Bend and install those new lines, hang'em up like the old ones were..close to the frame and stuff.Then get someone to pump the pedal so you can bleed the air out of the new lines. Keep checking the master cylinder and topping off the fluiud so you don't suck air in them again.GET BRAKE FLUID when you go to the parts store..or WalMart, so you don't run out.
When you're done fire it up and move it a little bit and NAIL them brakes. Should have a quick firm pedal the first time.....don't head full bore out of the driveway and into traffic before you've tested the brakes.You don't want to stir up the locals by making them dodge a runaway Jeep.
Kind of a long answer but hopefully it will save you some of the mistakes I've made over the years. Easier to remember all that stuff sitting here at the computer than look back under the Jeep and try to figure out what you forgot...
See..piece of cake.....good luck.

[Rollbar]

The line running from my master cylinder to the rear has cracked.

Does anyone make replacements? 4wd said go to NAPA, get line and bend it.

I need to know what size line and connectors, what other tools will I need to make this happen?



Thanks

:roadkill:


Go here and order a brake line: www.inlinetube.com Ph:800-385-9452

I ordered a set of brake lines/fuel lines from them & they are bent for your Jeep. The quality is very good & they ship in 48 hours w/a CC order. You life may depend on the lines you get so with that said here is a price quote out of their book. Call them & ask which set to get, they should be the same but one offers adifferent part number.

1972-1973-Jeep CJ5=JPB7201. Standard brake drum line set, D-44axle 7pc. set. Stainless=$170.00...........OE=$145.00.

1974-1975-Jeep CJ5=JPB7401. Standard brake line set, D-44axle 7pc. set. Stainless=$170.00.............OE=$145.00.

Just a thought,
RollBar

Server down, that's why i have a red "X".

[avainaffairs]

Damn mudslinger, that was pretty decent write up on. Seems like you may have done it once or twice!

Only thing I would add is this.
You are probably going to get one long piece of tubing as your replacement, I would break that into three pieces. A center 'permant' piece under the Jeeps body where it is hard to access. Then a front (under the master cylinder to a bit under the firewall) and a back piece. I would put in connectors so the next time something goes wrong with the break lines, you will probably only have to replace a portion of the break line rather than the whole thing. This would be easy to do as well, you would just need a tubing cutter and a pipe flaring tool. If you dont know how to do a double flare, you should ask someone to show you how, it is very easy to do and essential to making a leak free connection (in fact the flaring tool kit would probably have instructions as to how to do it).

You have a Jeep though, which is pretty short wheel based so you may not be concerned with doing something like this but I have a full sized rig and have learned that it can be a pain in the *** tring to route 6 feet of rigid tubing under my truck, around and over crossmembers, into and out of the frame etc, etc.

[Mudslinger73]

Well Dave whadijado? Fix it er not? spend BIG BUCK$$$$ or do it yer ole self? Times awastin boy !!! We gotsta know.