Moser vs Superior vs Alloy

[GEEP]

Opinions on what the biggest bang for the buck? Do they all come with a complete kit (all bearings and seals included) If not what else will I need to purchase? I will also need instructions with them. AMC 20 wide trac.

[Upper1]

I installed the Alloy in my 20. Been very happy with mine. They come with Timkin bearings. There cheaper then the rest and have a 10 yr warranty. All the goodies were in the box.

[Gryphon]

Nice thing on the Alloy warranty: it's "No Questions Asked".

I actually called Alloy USA and they transferred me to an engineer when I asked about the shafts. The Alloy engineer I spoke with stated that "'If' you can break them, we'll replace them."

[BustaBizz]

I run Mosers, I beat the snot out if with no issues. Also comes with Timken bearings. I don't really have a problem with any of them, they are all quality kits.

[the Captain]

the trick is to not go with the cheap china ones off e-bay

[highlandercj-7]

I have run superior and Moser, My superiors suck. I loved my Mosers, they are also the cheapiest (of the quality ones) last I checked 4wd had em for 230.00.Not often you get the best for less.

[Chilly]

My experience refers to 1972-1975 CJ5 narrow track:

Superior: U-joints not assembled. Forgings looked smoother and cleaner than Alloys but don't know if appearance correllates to quality of materials and heat treat so BFD, right? Came with all of the seals and bearings. Shafts rang like a bell. L&R sold separately.

Alloy: Assembled axles. Don't come with anything except axle asseblies with joints installed. Don't know how they rang because the joints "dampened" the ring. Sold as a L&R pair, not individually.

Mosier: No experience.


Initially went with Superior. Bought passenger side, had drivers side on backorder for 6 mo before I returned the passenger side and got a set of Alloys instead. What can I say. Alloy made it easier for me. 4WD had the Alloy product when I wanted it, the joints were installed already (saving me some time), but I did have to buy a few more parts to finish the job. Adding in the extra bearings and seals the price to istall Alloys was equal to Superior. I went with Superiors initially because I thought they were made in USA and Alloys were not (Alloy "USA" kind of implies something, doesn't it). After the fact I heard neither are made in USA so who knows.

[GEEP]

Well, I ordered the Moser one piece from our host. My next question is just how hard is this going to be? I have all the manuals and my neighbors has the tools. How long of a project am I looking at? Will I need anything else that I am not thinking of? Thanks for the help guys.

Geep

[LeadfootCJ7]

I have run superior and Moser, My superiors suck. I loved my Mosers, they are also the cheapiest (of the quality ones) last I checked 4wd had em for 230.00.Not often you get the best for less.


Why do you say they suck? I am just curious.

Is this duscussion regarding front axles or rear 1 piece?

[blackwater]

Geep, it ain't very hard because I did it by myself in a weekend with nothing but tool box tools. The 'right' way would be to have the bearings pressed on if you have a nearby shop. DO NOT press on bearings before you put the backing plates on.

Also, pay attention to the brake shoes (length). They aren't the same size and they go on a certain way.

I didn't have to shim Myrtle, but I seem to remember someone on here recently mentioning the shims. I also remember that the Moser axles come with decent instructions and that helps a lot if you share any of my skills.

Here you go, Geep. Check this thread: http://jeep-forums.4wd.com/showthread.php?t=30829&highlight=piece+axle+install

[Play400]

I've had rear axles for my cars (9"s) built by Quick Performance, advertises on erape, full time business, Moser components, build you anything u need for a very reasonable price. Figure that's what I'll put into the 5

[GEEP]

Thanks for the replies guys. Got my axles today and have read a little further. I do not have a bearing press, what should I do? Also how important is it to get the torque to correct specifications?

[the Captain]

take the axles to a machine shop to have the bearings pressed on...i paid ten dollars to the guy who did mine (the second time, doh!, first time was free)...but just remember to have everything there on the axle and not to get the bearing pressed on by itself...it seems most of us missed the crucial step where we put the backing plate and all on before the bearings were pressed on...doh! again

[gojeepin]

Yep... I learned that lesson too.

The guy I had do mine pressed the bearings on with the backing plates on the wrong shafts. He had to take them off and do it again.

[GEEP]

Blackwater, is it true that you don't need a hub puller? I removed the brake drums and all the brake parts. Am I able to remove the axle assembly by unbolting the four bolts behind the backing plate? If so will I need a puller to remove the shaft or does that just slide out? Any advice would be much appreciated?

Geep

[the Captain]

you don't need a puller but it does make it easier...you can get a loner one from autozone if you want

[GEEP]

Installing the Moser one piece, I have all the drum brake crap removed and am in the process of trying to pull the hub assembly. Silly question but will the hub assembly be used with the Moser axle? All that I have read tells me no but I want to check. Also if I remove the four bolts from the backing plate can I then pull the entire assemble out of the axle tube? Can you tell I am attempting something I never have before?

Thanks
Geep

[Bret]

The hub assembly on the 2 piece goes away all together. Once you remove the four bolts from the backing plate, the entire axle should slide out - there are no C-clips inside the diff on the 20. This is where you might need a slide hammer to attach to a stud and pull the hub/axle out of the tube - but if you don't have one - don't sweat it, just get a hammer and wack on the hub until it pops out. Some come out easy - some, not so easy!

Good Luck ~

[GEEP]

Last question guys. Do the Moser axles have a designated right and left one? And am I able to put the backing plate on without a press or does that get pressed on as well. Ok I guess there were two questions, sorry bout that.

Geep

[Hill, Bill E]

Last question guys. Do the Moser axles have a designated right and left one? And am I able to put the backing plate on without a press or does that get pressed on as well. Ok I guess there were two questions, sorry bout that.

Geep

Yes, there is a right and left (long and short)

And no, the backing plate doesn't get pressed on, but it has to be on the new shaft (along with the outer seal) prior to the bearing being pressed on.

[GEEP]

Woohoo! Finally got the axles out and backing plates off. Next step is off to a shop to have the bearing pressed on and then the install can begin. I am going to be purchasing new brake shoes, wheel cylinders, and a few other odds and ends to complete the job. Would it be worth the $120 for new drums or would you suggest I just clean up the old ones? Any other things I should consider before putting this back together?

[Hill, Bill E]

If the drums are within spec, I'd just have them turned.

[highlandercj-7]

Why do you say they suck? I am just curious.

Is this duscussion regarding front axles or rear 1 piece?

I'm talking about the rear Model 20 1 pc axles. I have a set of Superiors, and a set Mosers. The Superiors are not as beefy sitting side by side you can see the beef of the mosers. I have beat the snot out of my Mosers with out issues, I wrung the splines on the Superiors, I know TJMagoo has spun the splines on her superior 8.8 shafts IIRC with a 4 bangger. I'm not impressed with them and the fact that they are more $$ than a Moser. IT's a real no brainer...

[waynecocj5]

What I did when I installed my mosers was use a piece of 2" schedule 40 pipe and slid it over the axel shaft, stood the axel on a piece of wood, lifted the pipe and dropped it, tapping the bearing in place, worked great, no need for a press.

[GEEP]

I have my axles pressed on and now am ready to put these suckers in. Should I remove the inner seals and replace with the seals that came with my Mosers? If so how can I remove the old inner seals? What do I grease exactly? I am getting closer thanks to all of you guys. Hopefully the install won't slow me down too much.

Thanks,
Geep