Announcement Announcement Module
No announcement yet.
The V8 swap begins... along with total rebuild Page Title Module
Move Remove Collapse
Conversation Detail Module
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    those pics look pretty doubt with a shop and equipment like that you pops was able to keep you busy growing up...i also applaud your back saving lazy man technique while doing the diffs...just to let ya know you can get a real lift for less than 3 grand including installation...i guess im spoiled on em from my work though...but how else would i be able to change all my fluids every 2k?!?!


    • #17
      haha, I wish I had a lift! That was a make shift one that worked out well but don't let me fool you, I was sweating bullets when I had to lift it up with the New Holland.

      My brother and I was very active in the garage as kids because my father always had us out there, he'd never let us stay inside even if it was cold. Strange how some things don't change over time; I'm not in my 30's and we are all still in the shop working on things.


      • #18
        Here is where it is at so far....

        I got the dash done, cut the holes in for the defrost in the window frame and lower and both floors are fixed. (will upload pics soon.)

        My buddy has the grill, hood, both front fenders and dash to paint this week. Next week he will start on painting the body.

        Let me apologize about the picture, I took it with my cell phone late.

        I also did the brake converstion, the one Wheeler gave us specs on.
        Last edited by BrianABE; 12-05-2007, 05:36 PM.


        • #19

          Originally posted by BrianABE
          I also did the brake converstion, the one Wheeler gave us specs on.

          They ought to sticky Wheeler's brake conversion thread.


          • #20
            I agree, it should be a sticky. It's well worth its time and if you have a few items like steel plates, a cutting torque, grinder and drill press (or drill) it is a very easy mod. I was very surprised how easy it was to make.


            • #21
              looks great. that t-176 will be right at home behind that 350. i have one of its brothers (t-177) behind my 450+ horse small block and i have done plenty of balls to the wall clutch drops with no problems. they are a hell of a tranny and alot stronger then any t-4/t-5 etc. will ever dream to be. keep up the good work, you may want a 4:1 kit in the t-case while you have it will never regret it. same street manner but simply awesome offroad in 4 lo.


              • #22
                Thanks Clay.

                Is this what you are talking about?;


                • #23
                  From what I have been told I don't think you will like 3.73's and 35's. That is pretty steep. I have 3.73's and 33's and I wouldn't want any taller tires without going 4.56.

                  Might want to think about that.

                  Great looking build regardless. The paint on the frame looks great.



                  • #24
                    yes that is similar, but i like lowmax gears better. here is a link. they are one piece and are super beefy.



                    • #25
                      I'm locked into the 3.73 because both front and rear ARB lockers are only good up to 3.73 if I remember correctly but that maybe incorrect. I would have to drop a good bit of money to get 4.56 if I'm correct but if I'm not then it wouldn't be that costly to change it when I'm ready.

                      Clay, the Lowmax about the same price (600 bucks) as TeraFlex?

                      Edit: I think I'm wrong because it shows the 3.73 ARB lockers for only 3.73 and higher; which means I'm good shape to change the R&P out later if I do not like the 3.73.
                      Last edited by BrianABE; 12-11-2007, 10:37 AM.


                      • #26
                        yes, it is around 600...maybe 700, but it is worth they extra me on that.


                        • #27

                          I have a advance adapter bellhousing for my 350 / T176 arrangement and my YJ tub came with a hydraulic clutch setup; does anyone know is this Novak hydraulic setup will work with my bellhousing? -->


                          Sure looks like it would work on any Chevy bellhousing. Hell, all there that it would take is a hyd cyclinder, a plate and push rod to make it work.
                          I don't need to run a hydraulic clutch release bearing if what I've been reading is correct. Is that rite?

                          Think it is worth the money to run a hydraulic setup over the normal factory setup? (Someone running a hydraulic setup with their V8 converstion would be great to hear from)
                          Last edited by BrianABE; 12-06-2007, 09:49 PM.


                          • #28
                            "Novak's Hydraulic Clutch Slave Retrofit has evolved into its third and best rendition, as our #HCRC. It bolts to the popular Chevrolet 90 degree style bellhousings - typically Small Block V8 & V6 and Big Block V8, I6 and Iron Duke style bellhousing flanges." from their website.

                            I have one in my jeep and i love it, i was wearing out linkage every year due to the extreme amount of twisting my frame and body would go through. swapped over and have not had one problem since. it will take some clearancing on the bracket and bellhousing to get it to fit perfect, but nothing severe or drastic. do it, you will never look back.


                            • #29
                              I did catch this though;

                              Incompatible Bellhousings:

                              *The Advance Adapter's conversion Chevy bellhousing is not compatible without clearancing two aluminum recesses in the bellhousing-to-block bolt areas

                              So I would have to manufacture something for the bracket to be bolted to the bellhousing like in the picture below correct? (If so I can tig something there to make that work.)

                              Note the two 9/16" bolts

                              Also, since it's a YJ hydraulic cylinder do I need the 3/4" bore version or 7/8" bore version?
                              Last edited by BrianABE; 12-06-2007, 11:09 PM.


                              • #30
                                yes, but it still works you just have to clearance the recesses, i did this in about 10 minutes and it bolted right up, it comes with the bracket and slave, you do not need to make a bracket...and i could not tell you on the yj stuff, i dont work on junk . but you could always just use all cj stuff, master, and hose...the rest comes in the kit.