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  • #16
    Originally posted by willness33 View Post
    A new harness should certainly make it easier to figure out. If you still can't get it to work right, take a simple wire from the + terminal of the battery to a switch inside the jeep and back to the HEI. If it runs well like that, you'll know for a fact the problem is in the harness or ignition switch. Actually, you really don't even need a switch. You can run it straight from the batt to the HEI just to do a simple test, but you'll have to disconnect the wire to shut the engine off.
    I've been laying here in bed awake thinking about the bad connection issue. I think we may be on to something. I remember driving down the road more than once, hitting a bump and feeling the engine falter. God knows the roads around here are worse than some of the trails I've been on. I am going to take today off from work and try the switch idea to isolate the coil power first thing. Might save me some time trouble shooting the harness for nothing.

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    • #17
      I agree with a possable wiring issue.

      Now, did you swap the whole dizzy, or just the top end? (sorry, mine is a TFI now, all I did was swap the top end, the shaft is still the oem type part. I don't know about points to hei.) If it were the same shaft, I'd sure wonder about the bushings. Mine did that once, the bushings were shot. Replaced the dizzy and all is well.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Gryphon View Post
        I agree with a possable wiring issue.

        Now, did you swap the whole dizzy, or just the top end? (sorry, mine is a TFI now, all I did was swap the top end, the shaft is still the oem type part. I don't know about points to hei.) If it were the same shaft, I'd sure wonder about the bushings. Mine did that once, the bushings were shot. Replaced the dizzy and all is well.
        HEI is a much larger cap with the coil and module all in the dizzy. He would have had to change the whole thing.

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        • #19
          Had the exact same symptoms with my 1976 258. The large red wire going into the light switch had frayed and was almost out of the switch. Backfire, skip, quit completely. Could be the steering column connection also - that was also frayed one time and I must have been hitting it with my leg.
          It was a wonder it ran at all.
          If you get it runnig and wiggle the wires a little you should be able to tell pretty quick if that's the problem. Good luck.
          Last edited by hoppym38; 04-07-2008, 09:35 PM.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by hoppym38 View Post
            Had the exact same symptoms with my 1976 258. The large red wire going into the light switch had frayed and was almost out of the switch. Backfire, skip, quit completely. Could be the steering column connection also - that was also frayed one time and I must have been hitting it with my leg.
            It was a wonder it ran at all.
            If you get it runnig and wiggle the wires a little you should be able to tell pretty quick if that's the problem. Good luck.
            I think we nailed it. Thanks to Willness putting me on the trail. Hoppym38 was pretty close. Mine seemed to be the main feed to the fuse block, unfortunately in the process my HEI is dead. I get no spark from that but it seems to run fine with the points dizzy. Of couse I will have to drive it a while to be sure.
            Thanks for everyones help. If I still end up having a problem I will start a new thread.
            Again thank you all for your suggestions. They really do help.

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            • #21
              You probably fried the HEI module. I used to carry a spare in my truck with HEI. They're cheap and easy to replace. Glad it's all working out.

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              • #22
                Originally posted by willness33 View Post
                You probably fried the HEI module. I used to carry a spare in my truck with HEI. They're cheap and easy to replace. Glad it's all working out.
                Been running good so far, no problems. I'm not sure what year Chevy to order the distributor parts for. If I tell the 78 250ci will that work?

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                • #23
                  You could buy a spark tester from a parts store, or Snap-On makes a real nice one for less than $10 that you just place on the plug or coil wires and it lights up when the wire is getting juice. That's an easy way check if everything is getting spark when it should. It sounds like a timing issue to me. Just a thought. Good luck!

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by 74CJ View Post
                    Been running good so far, no problems. I'm not sure what year Chevy to order the distributor parts for. If I tell the 78 250ci will that work?
                    Any 6 cyl chevy module should work. Just pull the module out and take it to a parts store. When you find a match, buy 2 of them.

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by JCS82CJ View Post
                      It sounds like a timing issue to me. Just a thought. Good luck!
                      This isn't meant to be sarcastic, but It'll probably sound like it anyways. If you'd read this entire thread, you'd see that timing was never really the issue. It was a faulty ignition source to the distributor systems. That part's been figured out.

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