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  • NP231 SYE question

    Has anyone used one of these "cheaper" SYEs. If so, did/have you had any reliability or install problems. I'm curious as to the build quality of the less expensive alternative.
    http://4wd.com/newsite/shop/productd...atid=401&mid=n
    Note: This is not the AA SYE.

  • #2
    If you google SYE, you will find that same product number for the non-AA SYE. Alot of places get that one and label it as their own. As for the quality or install I could not tell you.

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    • #3
      Probably similar to the PORC unit. No significant problems with the install. I've had leaky shaft seals and there is no seal number so you have to get them from the same place you purchased the SYE (which I'm resolving).

      Other than that I have no complaints.

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      • #4
        My YJ had a Rubicon express cheap one on it when I bought it.
        I ended up changing it out for real one and a CV shaft.
        much better answer

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        • #5
          sry if i hijack the thread, but is there a cheaper way to go like buy the housing and weld the output plange piece onto the old output shaft and call it a day. i wouldnt mind doing this mind and using a newer xj front shaft for the rear if i could do the SYE part cheaply (im talkin under $100). i have an np242 btw.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by joshs1ofakindxj
            is there a cheaper way to go
            Hack n tap, cut the shaft, drill the shaft and tap threads in it and put a yolk on it. Works ok but hard to do. Still leaves the weak factory diameter shaft.
            Originally posted by joshs1ofakindxj
            weld the output plange piece onto the old output shaft
            Welding to a machined, hardened shaft is a bad Idea. Might hold for a while, but I wouldn't count on it. Not to mention the fact that you would probably trash the seals in the process and once it is welded, you could never split the case. You would essentially destroy the T-case in the process.

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            • #7
              can we get together and somehow do a group buy?

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              • #8
                Originally posted by oros35
                Hack n tap, cut the shaft, drill the shaft and tap threads in it and put a yolk on it. Works ok but hard to do. Still leaves the weak factory diameter shaft.

                Welding to a machined, hardened shaft is a bad Idea. Might hold for a while, but I wouldn't count on it. Not to mention the fact that you would probably trash the seals in the process and once it is welded, you could never split the case. You would essentially destroy the T-case in the process.

                i was thinking of welding on something that would slide on and would be splined and do it outside the vehicle somehow.


                any write ups on this hack n tap yoke install? im not afraid of the hard stuff.

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                • #9
                  Search google on the hack n tap and quit hijacking my frickin thread!

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                  • #10
                    My thoughts and usages on slip yoke eliminators! You get what you pay for!
                    Hack and tap uses an OEM weak shaft and makes it weaker by drilling hole.
                    If you want to eliminate driveline vibrations and is only light use 4 wheeler or cruiser this might be an inexpensive way to go. But remeber the CV style driveshaft has a 20lb chunk of steel hanging on that end.
                    The 4WD kits use a 45% stonger shaft (A/A is U.S. made, Omix is import)
                    and are much better for drivetrain strength upgrades. If you ever see a stock NP231 that bent shaft and exploded back half you'll opt for the big shaft!
                    Happy lifting!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I got the PORC sye, they have a lifetime warranty on breakage, so why not? (quite a few guys on pirate run this sye, and we all know how they can be on their stuff) I have about 200 miles of wheeling on the sye and so far nothing has happened and I'd say that atleast half of that wheeling was pretty hard on my sh!t had the back end bouncing quite a few times I was expecting the front u-joints to go or somthing but nothing has blown up yet. Even have popped the clutch on a hard surface road to do a burnout a few times (5-6 ) and nothing has popped or snapped..I can't help with the burnouts its just so fun to see a 36" swamper doing that when your ricer buddies can't even do it with their imports and ~20" tires. On the install they said that some models you have to remove 2 roller bearings for the shaft to fit back in the t-case correctly (that I did not like at all) but so far so good. However if I did it all over again I would get the JB super short SYE. Shorter = stronger and well Im running a flat skid with waggy springs and as you can see the angle on the ds is quite...well straight up so the extra ds lenth would be an added plus.
                      http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...r/flatskid.jpg

                      hope this helps you out some will, if not well you get what you pay for

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                      • #12
                        I'm also running the PORC one. It looks EXCATLY like the one you posted!! I also helped Jeff(Happycamper) install his. I'd guess they are the same SYE.

                        I for one have beat the crap out of my Jeep since I put it on(Paragon and wellsville more times then I can count)!! I have had no problems, and its a VERY solid output shaft! I have no worry's about the strenght!!

                        In my opinion, cheap is the only way to fligh!!!!

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