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  • Weird Hazard lights issue

    Let me start by stating that my right blinker was not working.
    After messing around I think I got that solved. Replaced the right rear parking light socket & replaced front (big) park light bulb.
    Well now if I push the hazards they will NOT light up unless I press on the brakes? I do hear the flasher kicking in when I press on the brakes as well. Which is opposite of what they used to do.
    If I remember right they would stop flashing if I hit the brakes.
    What have I done? I may just have to live with it since blinkers are way more important but it bothers me that they quit working properly.
    On that note when trying to trouble shoot the blinkers it blew the hazard small fuse. I did not have a 15 amp & put a 20 amp instead.
    Could this have effected my flasher fuse (large round one)?
    Thanks as always for any insight.

  • #2
    Before you go any further, replace the flasher unit..a bad one made mine do all sorts of stuff like you are describing......Stuff that should not be affected! Give it a shot and let me know.


    • #3
      you may want to check around the flasher connector on the steering column, as I've seen a few get cracked there, and shorting out a bit once in a while.

      I'd also check out the flasher connectors at the fuse box. if you blew a fuse, check the connectors on both terminals of the fuse and the wire for continuity, or power.

      I've had a fuse go bad that looked perfectly good, and it through me a curve, until i checked the posts and found out that it was just the fuse.

      That's all I can think of at the moment.

      Good luck.


      • #4
        Well, here is a simplified diagram of how it's wired:

        What you described doesn't make sence at first. I'll have to dwell on it for a little while.

        In the mean time, here is what's up inside the switch re-posted from CJOffroad:

        For the majority of the problems it's probably a ground problem on your lights or mud in the switch.

        Here is what you would see if you pull off your steering wheel and locking plate.
        This one is missing a cancelation spring and would not turn off when the wheel came back to center. THe spring had rusted off some time after it got all wet.

        Here are were both springs are located:

        The best thing to do is to flush out a lot of the dirt with contact cleaner.
        There are a couple of springs on the top that keep the switch in the right position until you return the steering to center after a turn and another spring to keep pressure on the contact pad.
        It wouldn't hurt to put a little moly grease on here after you clean the switch.
        Last edited by John Strenk; 05-26-2006, 06:45 AM.


        • #5
          If you would to take it apart, something I DON'T recomend, you will see the contact pads on one part:

          You can see were the different contact pads go.

          This is the wiper arm. Looks rather complicated at first.

          There are some small springs that insure contact.

          Get some mud or if the springs rust away, you got problems.

          The wipers work like this:
          In the center position the rear lights are connected to the brake switch contact:

          Turn the lever to the right and the right rear light is now connected to the TS flasher pad and also with the front right light. THe left rear light is still connected to the brake switch:

          Turn it to the left and just the opposit happens. The left rear light is now connected to the TS flasher pad and also with the front left light. THe right rear light is still connected to the brake switch:

          Now your probably wondering what that little extra pad on the right is for.
          Well it's for the hazard lights.
          Here is what it looks like on the back:

          Here is what the contacts look like:

          These short the front and rear lights together and connect it to the hazard flasher by making contact with the connections on the back of the turn signal switch:

          you can see the plastic shield with the holes to make contact.

          It effectively connects these points:


          • #6
            Here are some wire connections but I notice the color codes are not standardized. The several TS switches I have are all different but the locations are all in the same place:

            You can see some more detail here if your poking around with a meter or test light:

            Here is the plug on the end of the switch:

            It plugs into the harness like this:

            What's that Orange wire on the far left? I think it's for illumination for the PRNDL indicator if you have an automatic.

            On this one I broke the insulation on the wires because they are so old.

            Here is a simple schematic of the whole mess:

            Hope this helps someone

            Oh yeah if you have a bad ground your bulbs will look like this and not flash properly. Notice both filaments lit.



            • #7

              John, that was simply an incredible post. You are a Jeep 'lectrician extraordinaire!


              • #8
                ditto from me.

                amazing just amazing John S. if they were to give an award for the most detailed, colorful, and useful post, you'd be the winner.

                Not to knock others who post, but who goes into that much trouble and time to post information to a forum?

                The answer: John Strenk. does. kudos to you sir!
                Last edited by bigdaddy; 05-26-2006, 07:48 AM.


                • #9
                  this is a very simple problem, or was on my cj.
                  when i wired my cj as a trailer (to be towed behind my truck)
                  i discovered that it is essential to have both flasher units be in good condition.
                  and that if there is any type of short between parking/brake lights, then all parking lights will brighten when brake is applied.

                  that is to say, brake light power is backfeeding through the entire system in order to get to the hazard switch.

                  pull out your hazard flasher and it will fix it.

                  or, find where it is shorting.


                  • #10
                    You guys are going to strangle me but I think it was simple!

                    When I got home today I figured I would try stealing a 15 amp fuse from say the radio block & put it in the flasher slot to replace the 20 amp I had put in and see what would happen.
                    Well they blinked for a second or two then I pressed the fuse in a little more & dang if they did not start blinking happily!

                    Man do I feel like a rock.
                    I guess the fuse was just not making full contact in the block.
                    I may have another issue there but at least I know where to start & for now they are working again!
                    Course now I get to go buy a pack of 15 amps to get my radio back up & running.
                    I plan to copy that awesome schematic for future reference.
                    As always you guys are the best!!!


                    • #11
                      way to go. nothing like solving a problem with the jeeps. Just remember to save something for tomorrow.


                      • #12
                        You wanna talk about DUH

                        You think that makes you sound silly??? Take a look at my post about Floppy Trail Mirrors......


                        • #13
                          I had even more strange problems but now seem fixed

                          At the start of the trouble shooting I had pulled the wiring block from the firewall & cleaned it up with contact cleaner....thinking the grounding issue was coming from that area.
                          After I fixed the right rear pigtail & got that back up & reset the fuse for the hazards the stupid radio would not power up. Once I changed where it was drawing power from it came back up. Then I put back to original & it was good to go.
                          I tried the wipers.....nothing! So I hit the washer & bam they started working fine. What the crap! Instrument lights were not working either but when I did the radio thing it fixed them back too.
                          It's as if taking that block off made me have to reset everything.
                          This thing is really strange. Fix one thing & break two other things!
                          But finally I think all is back to normal.
                          Now I am wondering two things....did the bad pigtail in back cause the front light to be dim? And did removing the block freak out my electronics?
                          Again you guys are the best! I learn something all the time here.