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  • Pulling a 4.0 for the first time.

    Got a 2002 TJ 4.0 5 speed with what I've told is a cracked piston. So I will be pulling the engine. After looking at it I can see a couple of different ways of going about it and was wondering if there are any tricks, do's and don't, etc. Do you leave the wiring harness with the motor or with the jeep? Pull the whole thing, intake, exhaust, etc. I'm afraid I won't have enough lift with my cherry picker to clear. Do I take the head off first, then go after the block? Etc. Thanks
    Last edited by Stonecutter; 02-17-2012, 06:23 PM.

  • #2
    remove the grill, radiator, ac condenser (if equipped) and you'll have plenty of lift to pull the motor out with your cherry picker. the ac condenser can remain hooked up so you don't have to recharge it, just swing it and the lines to the side and out of the way.
    make sure you have a set of external torx sockets for the top two bellhousing bolts.
    I leave the harness in the vehicle if I'm using it in the end.
    make sure you have a set of fuel line disconnect tools (the lines will spray when you disconnect them unless you pull the fuel pump relay and crank the motor to relieve the pressure before you stat)

    Your other choice is to pull the engine, trans, and t-case at the same time. If you have the space to do this in your garage, it is actually easier than pulling and reinstalling the motor by itself IMO.

    If you have any questions feel free to contact me (you can email bstewart91yj@gmail.com). I've done plenty of engine swaps with 4.0L's. I'm actually going to finish one up in an 87 commanche tomorrow.

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    • #3
      I am so happy to join this forum.

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      • #4
        Engine is out, not to bad a job, lot of crap to disconnect. Left trans in(good idea), cleared grill without problem, even with 4" lift and 33's. Tore down engine, 3 cracked pistons so far, one was ready to grenade, caught that just in time. Sending the head out to milled 0010 and having the crank turned, 2 rods had std. bearings, 4 rods had one std and one 0001 bearing each, from the factory. Pulling crank today. Thanks for all the input you guys.

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        • #5
          It used to be a common practice, years ago, for the machinist that ground the crank to have the new bearings with them so they could gauge them for a more uniform fit. Not sure if it's the case now days with more modern equipment. You might want to ask at the machine shop. I haven't had a crank turned for a long time.

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