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  • #31
    good job mossnmix,keep up the good work.
    and when you post up new pic's click on the image tab, copy it then paste it in your post, then we'll see it intantly.


    • #32
      good job

      I should have said Great job on the pics, Just remember what ever you do for rear gearing you have to do for the front. As for the header set up, it's what ever you want to do, the easiest is the single. There's only 2 things you can do for engine performance " Get the gas in quicker and get the exhaust out even quicker"
      Last edited by Kids Mechanic; 01-07-2008, 05:14 PM. Reason: second thought


      • #33
        Sounds like you got a good find in the tub. There are some differences that will have to be considered. The defroster ducts are different from a cj to a yj and the gas filler placement is different. Those are the major differences.

        1. Either transmission should hold up to a 258 in the conditions you mentioned. I would run what you have. Then change if and when it breaks.

        2. If you are going to run anything other than stock I would recommend a lift of some sort. Either that or you may have to do some trimming around the fenders. The 32's with a 4.10 set of gears on both ends should do you good.

        3. I would recommend a single outlet. With a 258 you would not need more than that. A 390 cfm carb would be about right as well. Good luck.

        Sounds like you are on the right track.


        • #34
          mossnmix- we need to talk. I can tell you how not to do a lot of stuff with this tub swap.


          • #35
            I'm with Brian - Go with a YJ (Wrangler) body conversion. I bought a Wrangler tub for $500 too with a few dents and no rust. Galvanized steel - can't beat them for the $. I just have to find the time to do the conversion! Anybody want to pick up my call at the hospital this weekend?

            Hey MSRB - Is there any way you could post your tips on how to not do a Wrangler tub swap on a CJ, since a lot of members would find that useful info (including myself!) Thanks!
            Last edited by Renegade; 01-11-2008, 08:19 AM.


            • #36
              Originally posted by 84MSRB View Post
              mossnmix- we need to talk. I can tell you how not to do a lot of stuff with this tub swap.
              yes, please post your tips or IM me. What I know is this...

              1) cutting the defrost ducts. As it turns out, the YJ windshield frame got hold of has some rust issues. I am on the fence with repairing that or just getting a new frame from our host (perhaps fiberglass) and just replacing.

              will the CJ windshield frame fit on this YJ tub?

              2) gas filler. I was going to replace the gas tank anyway, so I figured I'd just use a YJ tank. I'm building a fun Jeep, not a show car.

              3) rear body mounts. I've seen several threads on this. I thought maybe I could use a thick metal strap to deal with the offset holes.

              What else do I need to concern myself with?

              Thanks again.


              • #37
                Got the old tub off. Pleasantly suprised to find the frame could look much worse. the previous owner, (or a friend) was pretty happy with the welder in his barn, so there are some interesting "plates" that are welded on to hold up the body as all the body mounts are rusted out. But with that said, the frame has no major holes/cracks. YIPEE!

                Now to find a person in JAX who can weld new body mounts on.

                Pics in the next day or so.

                Question of the day:
                I want to convert to power steering. I looked but couldn't really find any tips in the forums. Can I go to a junk yard and get a setup from a '63 Austin Healy or something that'll bolt in?


                • #38

                  Just for the record (and most guys on this thread are helping me out) I am having terrible luck with my fiberglass kit......nothing seems to be working prepared....


                  • #39
                    Originally posted by CAD1976 View Post

                    Just for the record (and most guys on this thread are helping me out) I am having terrible luck with my fiberglass kit......nothing seems to be working prepared....
                    I wound up finding a tub off of a 91 Wrangler. So I am cautiously optimistic about the fit.

                    Can anyone give me insight on the power steering mod?


                    • #40
                      i just baught the bracket's and pump and steering box, a couple hose's and wala. unless there's something else i could of done, that's it.
                      i have heard and read about useing a durango steering box, 90 something. i'm sure someone else will chime in.


                      • #41
                        Hey gang. I pulled the tranny and transfer case out and thought about having it rebuilt. Got a price locally of $1100.00. I think I can buy replacement for that. So, my question is, should I just leave it alone until something breaks? It seemed to all work when I pulled it in the garage. But the front drive shaft was removed so I dont know about the transfer case.



                        • #42
                          Manual trannies and the D300 t-case are fairly easy to rebuild. I just went through mine, and replaced the shift fork pads, seals and other 'wear parts'.

                          The "Jeep Rebuilders Manual" by Moses Ludel is a great book for rebuilding a CJ. The section on T-cases covers the D20 and D300 and is very detailed.

                          If your tranny is a T4 or T5, I can get you a link to a PDF file thats great, if it's an SR4, I'd think about swappng it.

                          Good Luck!


                          • #43
                            What tranny you running?
                            I would ask them what they are replacing for a price like that. Just as a example, mine is a T-176 and I did a total rebuild of the tranny and freshin' up on the transfer case AND had to replace the top part of the transmission where the stick goes in because it was cracked for 800 bucks.

                            You asked some questions about the tub swap mounting holes. Some people cut and move the third body mount bracket forward but it's a waste of time. When you get the tub on the frame just drill a hole in the tub rail. So put the tub on, bolt it down all but the third one (because there is no hole there yet) and then drill the hole in. This way the body won't be misaligned.

                            The rears will also need to be moved our ½” inch. Easy fix for this is go to your local Home Depot or Tractor Supply and by a piece of steel; cut the hole section off the rear and replace it with your new metal. If you are wondering how to cut the new holes in, just put the body up on the Jeep, put two bolts in the very front mounts, two in the mounts right in front of the Gas tank (under rear seat) and then mark you spots in the new metal that you need to cut. It might not be as simple for you; I had my tub hanging from a crane in the shop and could lower and raise it as needed.


                            • #44
                              I believe the tranny is a T-150 and the transfer case is a D20. Not positive about that but the vin says the jeep came with a 258 and a 3-speed, and based on the fact that it is a 3 speed in there, I am assuming I am right. Like I said, I was able to drive this thing into the garage when I brought it home, I just thought I'd do a rebuild to make it all nice and new. This is NOT because I think it's shot. The front drive shaft was missing, but I don't know that this means the transfer case had a problem.

                              I looked at doing the rebuild myself, just intimidated. I do not have a press. I did get a shop crane so I will definately use your advice on the body mounts. First I have to get some welding done as the frame has some cancer in the rear, as well as a couple of body mounts that need replaced.


                              • #45
                                You don't need a press to go through the T-case or tranny. It's nice if you have to replace bearings, but not necassary. If you just want to check it out and replace seals and shift fork pads it's really easy to do.