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  • Transfer Case Drop Problem

    I installed my 3" 4wdh lift this weekend...looks great. Problem is, when I went to install the included T/C Drop, 2 out of the 3 bolts on the passanger side just spin in place. i got one out and it looks like a nut that was welded or something inside the frame held the bolt on. but the other 2 i tried taking out just spin freely. i didnt try the driver side because i figured there was no sense if the passenger side wont come off. is there an easy fix to this? I took it for a short ride in a parking lot next door and i didnt even get passed 20 mph and felt vibes. I'd rather not spend the extra $700 or so for the SYE combo. any suggestions??

    also, i couldnt get the stock pitman arm off. i couldnt even crack the nut loose so i left it on. will this pose a problem? from my short ride, the steering felt normal so i didnt think it would be too bad to leave it.

  • #2
    One person I know that has the 4wdh 3" kit had no problems running the stock pitman arm. He's since added a dropped pitman arm and said there is little to no difference. The skid bolts are a biatch. Pretty much the only way they'll come out if the nut thingy spins is to try to drill them out and then have someone weld new nuts back in there. Good luck with those, they are a pain in the a$$.

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    • #3
      well you could try and cut off the bolts, or grind them off. then have somebody weld nuts to the outside of the frame, in the spot where the transfercase drop would go. then you wont even need the transfercase drop, the nuts will act as one.

      On the pitman arm. I think you will just see accelerated wear and tear of the ends of the tie rods. you might want to try to get a big wrench and some PB soak going on. It will help your ride out some and you wont have as much bump steer.

      Good luck

      Ryan

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      • #4
        I had a big prob with my pitman on my yj. So if you decide to take it off just go to autozone and advance and rent their puller. I broke both pullers at Autozone got my $ back then I went to advanced borrowed theirs. Got it moving then busted out the breaker bar to finish the job.

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        • #5
          If the pitman arm is being a pain and it drives fine, I would just leave it alone. I've heard a number of people claim that a dropped arm on a 3-4 inch lift actually causes bump steer. I haven't had this problem with a dropped arm, but my brother was running the stock arm with a 4.5" lift and also had no problems. For some perspective, I had to torch off my old arm after breaking two pullers (one I custom made from O1 with big threads) even after heating the arm cherry red. The things are a pain. The nut, however, is the easy part. Big crescent wrench+big pipe+strong back.

          One thing I do with spinning nuts is to jam a big screwdriver or something between the two parts, force them apart while tightening/loosening the bolt. The increased tension between the bolt and nut can get some purchase. In the case of the TC skid bolts, it'll get them out but then the nuts may get lost in the frame and you may not be able to get them back in unless you tack them back in place first. I kind of like the idea of tacking nuts on the bottom of the frame rails, but if you ever go SYE (you probably will) you'll probably then grind them off and get it fixed right. A SYE won't save you from taking off the TC skid anyway, it's part of the procedure.
          Last edited by muddymoose; 05-07-2006, 11:03 PM.

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          • #6
            The big thing with the pitman arm is that you are looking for the trackbar and draglink to be parallel to each other to avoid bumpsteer. If they are parallel or really really close I wouldn't bother with the drop pitman arm.

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            • #7
              update

              i was able to get a sawzall blade (well 3 of them) in between the frame and skid and cut the one bolt off. i looked at it and the nut and rest of the bolt must have moved inside the frame becasue i cant see them. but the part that the nut was attached to(the thing that is bumped down alittle from the frame) is still stuck to the frame. tomorrow i'll see about getting that last bolt off them try to figure out how to re-attach everything.

              i was told by a mechanic that he ran into this problem doing a lift one time and had to cut a hole in the frame with a torch to hold the nuts with a wrench and to weld a new nut back in place then cover the hole back up.

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              • #8
                I had the same problem installing my spacers. I cut off the heads, tack welded the frame mounted bolts back to the frame and used vise grips to screw the two bolts out.
                I had problems getting into 4Lo after I did the drop and eventually got a SYE. The SYE was the best money I've spent on my Jeep!

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