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  • Spider replacement

    Heres what I got:

    d-35 limited slip, < 3.55 carrier (3.07's)

    My spider is worn and in need of replacement. How hard of a job is this and what is involved? I know the limited slip is tied into the spider making this job tricky, but I'm not sure what to do. Thanks a bunch

    -Lou

  • #2
    Ok boys and girls, we are letting Lou down here...

    I have only really played with the full floater d60 in my 78 so I am sure someone here knows alot more than me about the 35 but heres what I will do. I am going to enter what I think the steps are, somebody please jump in and correct any mistakes I make.

    1: Raise vehicle safely ( jack stands, wheel chocks, etc).
    2: Remove Tires.
    3: Remove Drums or Disks (don't think that step requires details).
    4: Put an oil catch can under the differential and remove the cover, allow the gear oil to drain.
    5: Remove C-clips retaining axle shafts in housing and remove the axle shafts, be careful not to damage the splines. This may be easier with someone pushing on the axle flange while you remove the clips.
    6: Remove the carrier bearing caps. There should be four bolts. Make sure to note exactly how the caps were installed before removing them as they should go back in the same way.
    7: Remove the carrier. Be careful to keep the shims in place on either side, you want to reinstall it the same as it came out because this is your R&P lash adjustment.
    8: Remove the pin holding the differential pinion shaft in place and remove the pinion shaft.
    9: Remove the spider gears. If replacing the LS shims remove those as well.

    To reinstall it should be a direct reversal BUT does anyone here have the torque #'s for the carrier bearing cap bolts and the diff cover? Also, is there any magic secret to swapping those LS clutch packs? Any major Do's and Dont's? Come on everyone, let us know what my mistakes here are!!!!

    Comment


    • #3
      Lou already knows he doesn't want my advice on mechanical stuff...
      I'll try to look and see if I have the torque numbers on file.

      Comment


      • #4
        really what im looking for is what the LS does to the job. Everyone says changing out spiders is easy, but none mention how the trac-lock plays into the job.

        Also, I've searched 4wd.com and theres no spider kit, theres a kit for d-30's and d-44's and they have new clutch plates... any ideas? Thanks a bunch!

        I cant believe Jerry or Joe dont know these answers

        -Lou

        Comment


        • #5
          Hey Lou, they have the Spider & clutch pack together for your model in the 4WD paper catalog in the back. If I remember I will look it up and send ya the part #. It was a kit and I think it was around $180.

          And I am still waiting for the folks here to let me know what I missed on my steps or what was just plain wrong. Come on guys and gals, honest I got thick skin.

          Comment


          • #6
            Lou,
            Looks like the part # you need is 707349X. Here is the link: http://www.4wd.com/newsite/shop/prod...tj&pid=707349x I believe that'd be what you are hunting.

            Comment


            • #7
              thanks for the link, though I dont see anything mentioning "spiders." Il give 4wdh a call when it comes time to order.

              as far as the install, I think im gunna try my luck over at pirate4x4 and hope they dont haze me for a noob question

              -Lou

              Comment


              • #8
                pirate4x4's response

                "Pretty much the same process just more parts. Remove cross shaft-walk pinion gears and washers--pull side gears our (paying attention to how the clutch plates are stacked. Soak your new clutch disks in limited slip additive overnight. Install is the reverse of removal. Be sure to use limited slip additive in the diff oil after install. It is actually best to change all of the internals at the same time but you can just change the worn components individually. A Dana/Spicer WD can help you with individual pieces or kits w or w/o discs as you require."

                and I got noobed! geeze!

                -Lou

                Comment


                • #9
                  for what you'll pay to repair the d35, you should go with an 8.8 instead. you'll only pay a little more and be much happier with it. just my opinion.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    oh man, i was waiting for the "upgrade to 8.8" response! (Sean - +1) !

                    the install kit for spiders + clutches is 130. Please tell me where I can get a 8.8 for "a little more". The R+P alone for the 8.8 will be more then my repair, not to mention carriers or the f*cking axel itself.

                    man, you noobed me, and ive been on here for almost 2 years. That hurts.

                    -Lou

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Hey Lou, glad to see I wasn't too far off. And I think the kit I sent ya the link for included spiders, it just calls em "differential gears" or some such nonsense. Glad to see the dust in my skull hasn't buried all of my memory!!!

                      Sean

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        here's the reason. i'm saying for about 400 to 500 bucks you can get the 8.8 that will be installable. you can spend more, but it can be done for that price. if you want to regear it you'll spend a little more, maybe not depending on your resources.

                        or, you can go with the $130 to fix your d35. then when it breaks again, you can spend another $130. the d35 is not the best axle. yours broke for a reason. maybe next time it breaks you'll be someplace where you can't get help easily or whatever. when i fix something, i like to fix it right, make it so it will not break again.

                        if you feel the d35 is your best option, by all means do it. it's your money and i'm no one to tell you how to spend it.

                        EDIT: i was just rereading your original post and with a locked axle that things going to break again...just a matter of time and the time will not be long.
                        Last edited by FUBAR; 04-11-2006, 10:23 AM.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Fubar, it ain't broke yet, just that he's got some wear on his 7 year old spiders and a mechanic told him to replace 'em. And unfortunately in this neck of the woods I am not so sure he could get an 8.8 in that ballpark, the yards around here are expensive. We all know the 8.8 vs 9 vs d44 vs d35 deal but if it hasn't broke in 7 years it might just be good enough for him. BTW, up here on LI I have see way more D30 front stubs break than D35 rears. For some reason the beaches over here eat those 30's like a belgium chocolate... wierd.
                          Last edited by wilsonst; 04-11-2006, 11:00 AM.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Yeah, that pretty much summed it up.

                            FUBAR, where you got "locked" from, Im not 100% sure. The main reason I am not just ripping out my worn spiders and replacing it with an aussie or lock-rite is for the exact reason you stated... its a d-35.

                            Suburbia is hell on jeep parts prices, especially axels. Not to mention, if I HAD $500 to drop on an axel! shesh.

                            And your also 100% correct... I dont want these spiders to break in the middle of no where. Like on my first trip to paragon, for example. Which is why I'm doing preventive maintance. If I can get another 95k out of my d-35... well...

                            one day, when its retired to official weekend cruiser, I will have a d-44 or 8.8, sye, cv, blah blah... but currently, its my DD, low funded, budget boosted, driveway mechaniced, tj wrangler

                            Any other install responses, feel free. i apprecaite it!

                            -Lou

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by bigtj99
                              FUBAR, where you got "locked" from, Im not 100% sure. The main reason I am not just ripping out my worn spiders and replacing it with an aussie or lock-rite is for the exact reason you stated... its a d-35.
                              -Lou
                              i got it from here. limited slip is a type of locker.


                              Originally posted by bigtj99
                              Heres what I got:

                              d-35 limited slip, < 3.55 carrier (3.07's)


                              -Lou
                              keep in mind that limited slip rears many times take a special diff fluid and additive. not sure if yours does, but some do.

                              Comment

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