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  • Stripping/Painting Bumpers

    Ok, I have some black tube bumpers on my Jeep. They were on it when I bought it so I have no clue what brand or anything. They have seen better days so I am planning on painting them with POR. I was just curious what would be the best way to strip them down? I was thinking a chemical stripper, but which would be best. Has anyone got any experience at this?

    I have painted with POR before, but it was on bare metal that was fabbed, didn't ahve to strip it before painting.

  • #2
    FTFM

    the instructions say to knock off any loose rust, but it's best to apply it to some lightly pitted areas for a better bite so don't grind it all the way down. use marine clean and metal ready before hand.

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    • #3
      That was my concern. Some of the areas on the bumper are going to be hard to get to with a wire wheel/grinder. That is why I was thinking of just stripping it to bare metal before starting the whole POR process. Didn't know if anyone had done this before

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      • #4
        sand blasting

        Have you ever thought about sandblasting. I sand blasted pretty much all of my rolling chassis. Its good for rust, but it can suck to do it at times. Like when its raining. If you wanted you could even send the bumper off to get media blasted, that makes it perfect.

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        • #5
          sand blasting

          woops, double post

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          • #6
            per por-15 instructions...do not strip down to bare metal, the product gets a better bite. por 15 is an encapsulator, not a paint, so it's not applied like paint.

            please, if you're going to post, get the fact first. you lead this guy to believe that he should strip to bare metal when in fact that's not what the mfg recommends.

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            • #7
              On the bumpers. They may be powdercoated like most companies that are on the market now. If so then even sandblasting can be a real bear, unless they are taken to an industrial blaster. Another option is to take to a powdercoater and have them burned clean and repowder coated, but that is not cheap cost wise. On POR15 application unless the old finish is scuff sanded or lightly blaster to give a rough surface the POR 15 will peel. Even old cured paint will not give adhesion unless old finish is roughed up. I also suggest using the tie-coat primer.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by FUBAR
                per por-15 instructions...do not strip down to bare metal, the product gets a better bite. por 15 is an encapsulator, not a paint, so it's not applied like paint.

                please, if you're going to post, get the fact first. you lead this guy to believe that he should strip to bare metal when in fact that's not what the mfg recommends.
                Ok, I will have to go read the website some more. When we fabed the rear frame we just prepped the bare metal (rust and all). That stuff is never coming off. I accidentally hit it hard with a hammer the day after we painted it and it didn't do a thing. I thought stripping the bumper down would give the same results, but it looks like I need to go read more. I just want it to hold up better when trailing than the original finish has.

                Thanks for the help. I will try to post some pics when I get this project going.

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                • #9
                  If your going to strip stuff down to bare metal, you need to prep it for POR 15or whatever topcoat your going to use. POR makes an etching metal prep so do several other companies. Variprep and Matrix are also a good etching primers for bare metal. The best appearance is going to come from blasting the bumper completely clean and recoating it. If you beat the crap out of bumpers and skids like I do, then hit it with a wire wheel and some rustoleum. Semi gloss black and some rustoff primer hides nearly anything except really huge chunks.

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                  • #10
                    Leadfoot, I did the same thing you're doing 2 years ago to my bumper. I used a grinder with a wire wheel to get rid of all the loose stuff, lightly sandblasted the surface of everything else, used marine clean & metal ready, POR'd it, then topcoated. After 2+ years, other than bumps & scuffs, it still looks the same as it did the day I finished it. Did my nerf bars the same way at the same time.

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                    • #11
                      Cool, thanks for the info. Did you spray or brush the POR when you did this??

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                      • #12
                        I brushed it cause that's all I have. Spraying would probably give a smoother finish since POR is so thick, but ya gotta have the equipment to do it, which I don't. But I was real careful, used a 2 1/2" fine-bristle brush and got a fairly nice finish.

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                        • #13
                          i don't know about you, but when i put on the por it was thin as water. if you're putting it on a bumper, don't forget to top coat it or the UV will break it down. i used rustoleum.

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                          • #14
                            Cripes!!!!!!!!!

                            Fubar's detector says I'm gay....

                            I think it's right. I'm pretty sure I'm a lesbian.

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                            • #15
                              Maybe "so thick" was a bit of an overstatement, but it definitely wasn't as thin as water. Maybe it's more the feel of it coming off the brush, kinda has a pull to it. Anyway, yes, as Fubar says topcoating is an absolute must! My first exposure to POR was a few years ago with a neighbor that had POR'd an iron railing, but didn't top coat it, and where the sun hit it directly it was getting all gray/white and chalky looking. Of course he condemned POR as total crap. Follow the instructions to the letter. The stuff's great.

                              Don't worry Blackwater, it's fun being a lesbian! Women are the best!

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