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  • Full Gauge or 2 seperate

    Since my stock fuel gauge and temp gauge do not work anymore (the gas gauge worked for a few days and won't work anymo).

    I have the extra cash to fix my blind problem.

    Should I buy two seperate aftermarket guages and mount them in the dash?

    or

    Should I buy a whole new spedo cluster?

    Has anyone ever had a problem with the new spedo clusters from 4WDH?

    Any opinions would help, thanks.

  • #2
    Crown...

    Crown will probably have made the new speedo cluster, Jeff. I put one in Myrtle last fall and the gauges lasted a total of about two weeks. A lot of this new stuff is just plain junk, man. I'm running Myrtle's original speedo cluster again after I disassembled it and cleaned it up.

    If you go with separate gauges you may have to change your tank sending unit. This is just my two cents but I'd replace the temp/fuel gauge as a pair in the old cluster and cross my fingers. Your constant voltage regulator probably quit. It's built into the gas gauge. Or, if you lost the temp gauge first then the other you may have a bad temp sending unit. Check your wiring before you hook new stuff up. Take a look at John Strenck's posts. He's got some killer CJ gauge troubleshooting stuff.

    Comment


    • #3
      Well, the temp sending unit and the gas tank sending unit are both brand new. The temp sending unit is the second one I bought new to try and see if it was the problem. The gas gauge will work sometimes, most of the time it just spikes up to "FULL" and won't come back down, so i just pull the wire from the back. The temp gauge I think has never worked since I bought the Jeep.

      I wasn't thinking of replacing the gauges in the speedo cluster, I was thinking more like AutoMeter round gauges. I think that is my best bet for everything to be working correctly.

      Comment


      • #4
        if the gas gage is going full check the wiring to the sending unit for grounding out

        auto meters work just fine you have to put holes in the dash or mount them under the dash

        grounding the sending wires will show if the gage's works just dont hold them to ground to long ( grounding gages will send them full/hot)

        Comment


        • #5
          yep...

          Originally posted by fuzz401
          if the gas gage is going full check the wiring to the sending unit for grounding out...
          Fuzz is right on. Your gas gauge ain't broke. Something else is wrong. The less resistance to ground it sees the closer it gets to full. Sounds like something is shorted or the sending unit may be stuck in the up position.

          A new Autometer gauge isn't going to cure your tank level troubles until you cure that 'going to full' problem.

          Comment


          • #6
            I guess a good test would be to run a new test wire from the sending unit to the fuel gauge. And if the gauge works correctly, then its a grounding issue in the the sending line from the tank.

            I have checked the connections a few times at the tank and nothing is grounded.

            Come to think of it, I just remembered there is a section of the wiring inside the tub that is wrapped in layers of electrical tape. I bet the previous owner spliced something together and something is not right in there...

            The temp gauge I can't get it to do anything, even by grounding it to make it spike up to HOT, that doesn't do anything.

            Comment


            • #7
              I had the same thing happen to me after I charged my harness over. Both temp and fuel gage would max out. I was using my original cluster even tho the harness I piked up came with one. After looking at the gages I notice the where different because of the year,they both only had two prongs and instead of three. I used the new cluster(the one with only two prongs per gage) and they seem to work for now. I really did not understand the difference why one would work and not the other. Maybe some one can explain that me. I still had to order a sending unit because the pick up tube was broke.

              Comment


              • #8
                Ok, while on my lunch break i was able to short out the temp gauge and it spiked to "HOT" in a matter of 1.5 seconds (which has never done that before and it might work now LOL)

                And when I do the same to the fuel gauge, it takes maybe 3 minutes to reach full.

                Shouldn't the fuel gauge act the same way the temp gauge did and spike up to "FULL" in a matter of seconds?

                Well, after I go the fuel gauge to move, I put all the wires where they were susposed to be, and turned the key on and the fuel gauge started to work. Turned the key off, then on again and the gauge is dead again

                Well at least I know both needles move.


                I'd hate to pull the whole cluster out again, can both temp and fuel gauges be pulled out while still in the dash?

                Comment


                • #9
                  It should move the same. It could be a connection problem. If you have a poor connection someplace it may be taking more time to heat up.

                  That along with the intermittant problem of working each time the key is turned on is another clue there is some connection problem. Have you run the test yet?
                  Quick Test

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by John Strenk
                    Have you run the test yet?
                    Quick Test
                    I ran tests when I first bought the fuel sending unit for the tank, but I wish I would have read your link instead of the others, it makes more sense.

                    We did the test light on the old sending unit and it did blink like the write up noted, but it did not blink very quickly, maybe once every 2 seconds, at the tank and the gauge.

                    Thanks for the link, I will go more in depth with the test.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      fuel gauge pegs

                      hey all
                      im working on a jeep cj7 1977 , it has a painless harness in it, soon as i turn the key on the gas gauge slowly goes to peg on the full side. the wire seems to be fine back to the sending unit, i grounded the sending wire and it shot striaght to full. could this be a bad gauge ? its brand new from crown. everything seems to be wired as it says to do. the heat gauge only goes up about a needle above the cold line. these gauges are driving me nutz. what all should i be looking for,
                      thanks a million
                      Rich
                      Last edited by Crazz; 05-19-2006, 07:43 PM.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Make sure you have the wires on correctly on the back of the gauge. It get's confusing sometimes to look at the picture and the reverse it in you mind because it's behind the dash.

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                        • #13
                          i have the whole cluster and front dash panel off of it.. they didn't send any pics of how the wires go, the gauges were already out. so im at a guessing game. i need a good pic of the back with the wires marked /. will have to do some searching

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Crazz
                            i have the whole cluster and front dash panel off of it.. they didn't send any pics of how the wires go, the gauges were already out. so im at a guessing game. i need a good pic of the back with the wires marked /. will have to do some searching
                            http://users.adelphia.net/~john.stre...okUpClose2.jpg
                            On the fuel gauge on the left, the violet wire goes to fuel level sender, the RED wire is power and on the Temp gauge the purple wire goes to the temp sender.

                            Gauge Specification:http://users.adelphia.net/~john.stre...QuickFacts.htm


                            THis might help also:
                            http://users.adelphia.net/~john.stre...eQuickTest.htm
                            Last edited by John Strenk; 05-21-2006, 07:48 AM.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              oh that is awesome, thanks a million for posting the pics and links.
                              greatly appreciated

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