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  • 360 restoration

    I just got my 77cj7 on the road less than a week ago and its down again. I replaced the t150 trans. got new headders, cherry bombs, and pipes on it and now the original 300,000+ mi. 304 finaly bit the dust. Two years ago I broke a ring on one of the pistions and replaced just that piston and ring combo. I should have done them all but did not have the $. My girlfriend took it for a ride while I was working today and when she went to restart it the engine would not turn over. When I got home she said she thought she may have left the key on but that was not the case. I tried to jump it then when I got it rolling down hill backwards and tried to pop start it the tires locked up at about 15mph in R and I new it was set up. Already tried turning the crank with a breaker bar, no go. My buddy that I got my t150 from also has a 73 commanchie with a 360. I took a look at the engine, "it's got 40,000 miles on it" not bad, but it would not turn over by hand and it's sat at least ten years. I have not been back up there to investigate the situation any further. I got on the message board 1st thing. Everyone has had great input for me in the past 3 or 4 months since I joind the board and I'm hoping somone can help me out again. I Know my 4bbl intake, headers and all the other outer parts will bolt right up. How about the t150? If its set up just because it hasen't been used in a long time dose putting Karosen in the sparkplug holes realy work? Any other advise short of a total rebuild to get this old 360 running or am I wasting my time trying? THANKS AGAIN
    Last edited by Labattman; 06-05-2006, 11:39 PM.

  • #2
    Trany bolt pattern should be identical between the 304 and 360, I do believe that the flywheels are different, may want to check that.

    Could be number of reasons why you can't turn it by hand, and none of them are a real good sign.

    First make sure the trany is in neutral. I've made that mistake before.

    Second, check the oil. Rust on the dipstick, especially the bottom half is a bad sign. I like to pill the dizzy and use a primer tool and a drill to prime the lubrication system before turning the motor over.

    Third, pull the plugs and check for rust. Water in the cylinders is a sure sign of trouble.

    If it passes these tests , take all the belts off and rotate the motor, sometimes an accesory can freeze up and mimic a bad motor.

    Even if it is a bad motor, you may want to pick it up and rebuild it, won't be too much more to do the 360 compared to the 304, and after all it is a 360.

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    • #3
      Thanks tracraym. I'll check it out.

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      • #4
        you will need a flywheel for the 360 the 304 will not work the balance will be wrong every thing else should bolt right up

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        • #5
          The dipstick has no rust on it and the oil is black to the add line and no gray color. The sparkplugs are free of rust. I tryed to turn the crank with a breaker bar and it would not move but it may be in gear. it's a 72 not a 73 my friend was mistaken. I got the vin#. its an automatic and the shifter is broken it has no rims on the front and I did not have the tools with me to raise it up and check the shifting linkage to see if it's in N. I can pull the pistons and change the rings I did that to my 304. I can't afford to take it to a shop and have it honed or have the piston pin pressed out and change the pistons. What can I do at home to clean up the cylinder walls? What can I use to clean up the heads? Any do it yourself tips for a rebuild are appreceiated. Hey Fuz401 I can just use the flywheel thats on the 360 can't I? The 360 has an automatic trany and my 304 is standard. Thanks

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          • #6
            any flywheel or flex plate from a 360 will work

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            • #7
              Fuz401 what can I use to clean up the cylinder walls?

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              • #8
                as far as what braking the glaze a ball hone works good for that - carbon carb cleaner or brake cleaner - to clean up a bare block dow oven cleaner

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                • #9
                  Fuz401, I always thought that a honing tool would be very expensive and never looked into the prosess of honing a cylinder. After I read your reply on using a ball hone to clean up the cylinder walls I reserched the prosess and cost and that is what I want to do. I do need a couple pointers. I found a Pioneer Flex Hone part#TGB400D on Ebay. The seller says that it's for a 4" bore and it's 120 Grit. The cost is $75 after shipping. The AMC 360 has a 4.08" bore thats close enough right, how about the grit? The artical I found on how to hone a cylinder says spend about 20 seconds on each cylinder and try to achive a 45 degree cross angle. I don't want to go over stock piston size because i'm not changing the pistons just replacing stock size rings. If the cylinder dose not clean up and have the right angle after 20 seconds is it safe to try a little longer? I have never used a hone and I don't want to over do it. Thanks.

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                  • #10
                    Beware

                    Labattman

                    Forgive me,,, but I fear youre heading down a path of woes,,

                    I would suggest at least allow a machine shop to prep your block & crank for what's called a crank kit.

                    Dat my 2 cents

                    Kelse

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                    • #11
                      I think at the moment you are looking in the right direction for a quick re-ring job, but you are putting the cart before the horse. You really need to get that motor home and get her taken apart to see what is wrong. If the price is right, get that pig out of the pen and on to a stand. once you get the heads off, take us a few pictures of what you find.


                      As far as the flexhone goes, I have had good luck with the cheapo glaze breakers, they run about $25 and come with 120 grit stones usually. you can buy coarser stones if you need them. Whan doing a complete rebuild, you just hone long enough to make the bore dull and not shiny (thus the name.) When you are trying to get rid of rust, you can run it alittle longer and get most of the rust out of the cylinder. If the walls are really pitted, you need to go ahead and spend the $$ on a real rebuild.

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                      • #12
                        Thanks tracraym, I'm going to try and get that moter out this weekend. The only problem is as I was saying their are no rims on the 1972 and it sits in a feild. I can't roll a cherry picker so i'm guna use trypods and a hoist. I hope my 93, 4.0, 5spd, 3.5" lifted, 31" mudder, cherokee can pull that big wagoneer out from under the moter so I can load it up in my friends 2wd pickup. Do you think that my cherokee can do it in 4 low? I think i'm gona end up typing on the cherokee forum after I put my bumper back on. Kelse, "or whoever" my brother has went to school and graduated at the top of his class for machining. He won state chapion for Alfred State collage in a macheaning compition. He has all the micrometers and whatever else I need, along with the skill to make shure the crank is good. He dose not have the machining equipment to do anything about the problems he may find and my question is can I use my 304 crank if its in better shape? I know the stroke is the same on a 304 and 360 but are their other issues like balence or jurnal size? What is a crank kit? Thanks again for your time.

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                        • #13
                          Labattman

                          I don't know if the 304 & 360 are stroked the same , I suspect not you'll also need to know how they are ballanced.

                          Crank kit,, I guess it is a slang term used for new bearing, wrist pins, rings & sometimes a new crank. done by a machine shop.

                          I did a 413 dodge truck engine couple years ago or I should have said I had a machine shop do it,, though the old engine had very few miles and good cylinders, the best I good do with new rings and bearing was 10 th over which meant some machine work, and even though the 413 is externall ballanced I had the machine shop ballance the crank with the harmonic ballancer and flywheel all bolted together


                          Kelse

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