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  • steering on a cj-7

    I have a 1977 cj-7 with power steering and everytime i hit a small bump snatches the jeep one way or the other. The jeep does have a shackle lift on it. Will shackle lifts cause this? Any suggestions as how to fix it?

  • #2
    Take the shackle lift off and see if it helps.

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    • #3
      Yes, the shackle lift will make the bump steer problem much worse. Do you currently have a steering stabilizer? If not, that may help somewhat .... but your best bet is to swap out the shackle lift for a suspension lift. It will make the jeep handle and ride much better. You may also want to check your tie rods as well just to make sure something isn't hashed out there .....

      Good luck ~

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      • #4
        A shackle reversal should fix that problem.

        High5

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        • #5
          thanks

          how large of a suspension lift should i go to now make the jeep too top heavy? what brands do you recommend? I was thinking a two or three inch rancho suspension lift. What do you think?

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          • #6
            I wouldn't do anything less than a 4" ... bigger is always better!!! I have heard really good things about the 4wd hardware 4" lift for both price and ride .... try searching the fourm ... there is lots of info about the various lifts out there ....

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            • #7
              A dropped pitman arm should help clear things up.

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              • #8
                Lift

                If he goes with a 4 inch lift as oppossed to a 3 inch, what other modifications will he have to do?

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                • #9
                  The drop pitman arm would be about the only thing ... depending on who you are some folks say you need a transfer case lowering kit and all that other jazz .... but I have never had any problems with any lift I have put on ...

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                  • #10
                    Just a couple things you'll need that I can remember of the top of my head. I have 77 CJ7 myself, so this may help. I have a T-150 tranny, dana 20 transfer(with the ubolt conversion on the yokes) and an AMC 20 rear, so keep that in mind.

                    I got the 4wd 4" lift. At the start it really seems more like 5 inches. I have 31" mud terrains on it. (Yes I wish they were bigger)

                    Be sure to buy new shackles. They don't come in the kit. I found some greasable 3/8" lift shackles of good quality on ebay, but 4wd sells MORE and a couple others. You don't want much more than 3/8" with a 4" lift kit, you'll run into BIGGER driveline troubles than you want. The kind I found worked fine with the center brace in the shackle with the military wrap, but I suspect there are some that will not work. I could not find any with no additional lift, that had the center brace on the shackle.

                    I bought new spring plates.......for the front I got some that accomodate the antisway bar (two studs instead of one, and the front is the antisway bar-they only go one way due to the Dana 30 pumkin housing. You will likely find your shock mounts (located on the spring plate...the "studs I mentioned) "bent" down, you can heat them up and bend it back.....BUT.

                    I needed more "shim" than 4wd provided in the kit which is 4 degree's. I had my pumkin "turned up" to change the angles on the drive shaft (about 8 degrees, careful as lubrication in the pumkin can cause you trouble if you go to far), as opposed to buying bigger shims. The bolt that goes throught the spring pack will have to go through the shim hole....AND mate with the spring plate, so if you decide to go over 4 degree's with a shim, you'll have to get longer hardware.

                    I did do the transfer lowering kit, which is REALLY easy and only 7/8" total, which is nothing in the grand scheme of things, but really good for drive shaft angles. FUZZ had a really good idea that he did on has VERY FAST SWEET JEEP, which was take a couple of chunks of aluminum bar, and cut them down to 7/8" so there was no "spacer gap" between the frame and the tanny skid plate....sturdier too I imagine.

                    I had to do a CV drive shaft. Others have not had too. The previous owner had "fixed" my drive shaft at some point so it was shorter than stock. If you have any driveline vibration at all, and you drive your rig on the road, after you shim the axle, and add the transfer case lowering kit (I was told to do this by 4wd), you should really look at doing this as it will be safer, last longer, and result in less breakage later. I will leave you with this image. 75mph on the HWY, and the rear drive shaft gives loose at the yoke on the transfer case. Use your imagination, cause it can happen. If nothing else....you should concider the possiblity that you may need to do it when you are budgeting. It sucks to have unexpected changes and expense when you just wanna drive with your new lift. Do a search on the forum for drive shafts, there are numerous links, hints and suggestions. There are engineering "rules" for correct pinion angles etc that you should look into and understand.

                    As for the top heavy. The springs on the 4wd drive kit are stiff enough (at least one extra leaf from stock if I remember right) that the top heavy feeling simply goes away. I don't know if you have stock springs, but if you do, you are pushing 30 yrs on them and they are FLAT and worn out, and a genuine contribution to your bump steer. My bump steer went away with my new kit, and so did the "near death all the time Jeep feeling". It is about a 300 percent improvement (I'm not exagerating) from worn out stock springs.

                    I won't touch the spring over axle topic here but there is a bunch out there on that too, if you are a welder.

                    You will need brake lines front and back. You can drive on the stock with the lift, but you will not be able to offroad or tweak it at all. Mine were stretched to the max on level ground after the kit. You don't want to mess around here either as you can loose your brakes while driving. Get good quality too.....the longer ones have a tendency to "find" your tire. Most lines come in sets, and include a longer line for the back too. At least do stainless.

                    A couple of other things to consider. New bump stops for the front axle. New tranny/transfer case mounts. Extended antisway bar links (if you have one, mine did not until I added it). New bushings for you antisway if you have it. New ball joints for the front steering......you're replacing the suspension right?... do it right. Make sure your dropped pitman comes in any kit 3" and up. Your will need a pitman arm puller or a good hammer and an imagination to get the old one off. I cutting wheel for your air compresser to cut off the old axle ubolts (PS, don't waste your money on ubolt protecting spring plates, they are way to easy to cut off and replace should you tweek one). Be prepared for pinion leaks.....you've been riding on them in the same spot (relatively) for 20+ and your about to change how they wear.

                    I would also concider tire size. You more than likely have narrow tracks on your Jeep and most people want bigger tires with their lift. With stock wheels, and the new kit, I have 1" clearance in a full turn with 31X10.50Xr15's, which would mean that I need to buy new rims or back spacers to put a 33X12.50Xr15 or bigger on it.


                    OK....so it was more than a couple of things, and more than you asked.....sorry bout that.

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