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  • Clutch linkage

    I put on my 4WDH fiberglass body and I connected the clutch pedal to the linkage and all that. The problem is that when I push the pedal down, it comes up less than all the way. It also feels a little wierd. their is a big spring up on the pedal, but I don't think its for the pedal to go back up. the only other spring is on the through out bearing fork that comes out of the bellhousing, but it is to small to move the whole pedal.Is their a spring I'm missing or did I set up the clutch wrong or what? It's stopping me from painting my body. by the way I have a T-176 4 speed tranny, if that helps.

  • #2
    Is it rubbing on the tub where it comes through from the engine compartment? Or you may have installed the bell crank backwards. Try swapping it end for end and see if that helps.

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    • #3
      Clutch linkage diagram

      Great post and I have a similiar question...does anyone have a good diagram of the clutch linkage for an 85 CJ..258? A diagram would most likely answer my question. Thanks!

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      • #4
        All the diagrams I have seen don't clearly show which bell crank ear (long or short) goes to which end of the linkage (clutch pedal or clutch fork) if thats what you are after. I'll have a look at my FSM tomorrow night if no one has the answer by then and see what it has to say.

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        • #5
          I put on my 4WDH fiberglass body and I connected the clutch pedal to the linkage and all that.

          I think the problem may be the fiberglass body That will throw your linkage off along with your shifter and transfer stick. A good soulution is a hydraulic clutch. t. got any pictures?
          Last edited by stumblefoot; 07-05-2006, 11:41 PM.

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          • #6
            Bell crank?

            Originally posted by jeepwhore
            Is it rubbing on the tub where it comes through from the engine compartment? Or you may have installed the bell crank backwards. Try swapping it end for end and see if that helps.
            It isn't rubbing on the body at all. I had to do lots of grinding to get to this point though. Im not quite sure what you mean by a backward bell crank.

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            • #7
              The bell crank is the piece that connects the clutch pedal rod to the clutch fork. There are 2 ears, one that the clutch pedal rod connects to and one for the adjustable link to the clutch fork. They aren't the same length so if that peice was installed end for end you may not get the right amount of throw in the clutch linkage. Go here: http://4wd.com/newsite/shop/productd...atid=373&mid=n, click on the picture. Part # 7 is what I'm referring to (the ears are where #2 and #10 go)

              Are you using new clutch linkage peices? If you are using the old stuff and never disassembled the bellcrank from the 2 mounting brackets (with pivot studs) then this probably isn't the problem.

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              • #8
                Also 4WD Hardwere tubs have the equivalent of a 1" body lift so your rod may be to short also.

                When my PO installed my tub he mounted the bellcrank on the frame. He may have lengthened the rod also. I never checkd to see if anything is welded on.

                I always have to mess around with the bell crank because I forget wich side the longer end attaches to what. My clutch is acting just like yours after my frame swap and I may have it on backwards also.

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                • #9
                  thanks

                  thanks a lot for all the advice, I have plenty of things to try now.

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                  • #10
                    YJ master cylinder lines

                    I'm trying to replace the clutch in my 1987 yj jeep. while disconnected the hydralic line at the fitting,the line twisted on the side of the master cylinder. i've tried locating only dealership as so far at a $$$$$ beyond me. looking for help or idea's thanks.

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                    • #11
                      still doesn't work

                      when i flipped over the bell crank it didn't work at all, and the rod up to the pedal is long enough. I put the tranny in gear and clamped the clutch pedal down, then I rolled the jeep a little and the engine turned over. so it looks like I assembled something wrong or the throwout bearing fell off the fork or something. It shouldn't be to hard to fix since I am taking the body back off anyways. I hope it works though.
                      Last edited by CJ5311; 07-10-2006, 03:58 AM.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by jflatt
                        I'm trying to replace the clutch in my 1987 yj jeep. while disconnected the hydralic line at the fitting,the line twisted on the side of the master cylinder. i've tried locating only dealership as so far at a $$$$$ beyond me. looking for help or idea's thanks.
                        If it's that exspensive then try taking it to a place that makes hydralic lines. They usually can make you one for a few bucks.

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                        • #13
                          For what its worth and for further clarification for anyone else unsure of the bellcrank positioning, the long arm goes to the pedal.

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                          • #14
                            Bellcrank thanks

                            Hey JeepWhore,, thanks for the tip. For all the pics and sketches and notes I did while tearing down, (and this is my 3rd cj teardown!)I didn't get a pic of the bellcrank position So that helps, now that I'm putting it all together now!

                            BTW, my wife calls my Jeep a "whore", it takes all my money, I spend all weekend with it, and when I come home..I'm to tired for her!!!
                            go figure!

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                            • #15
                              Maybe a nit, but....

                              When I put mine glass body together with the 2 inch lift, i had to extend the bracket on the firewall about 2 inches lower for the clutch to connect to. it slide right past my headers and connected up to the push rod which connected to the piece coming out of the bell housing. i adjusted it up to what I thought was right, and yup, I had that little spring that barely made the peddle come back up.

                              Well, what I did not know is that there is a much bigger and better spring that connects to the piece coming out of the bell housing right at the end there should be a hole. A large spring, with a long handle on it, connects there and then you drill a hole in your frame mount for the engine and you connect it there.

                              You put enough tension on it so that it takes up all the slack in the linkage. Check the bolts in the linkage to make sure they are all tight as well. I forgot to do that, and had a lot of slop.

                              Well after adding the big spring to the engine mount bracket, i threw out the little POS spring, and now my clutch peddle comes all the way up to where it should, and pushing it down gives you just enough resistence that you know you have clutch.

                              The family says the clutch is too hard to press. well maybe I can lighten up on the spring a bit, but heck, if it is too hard, dont' drive it. that's what I say to them.

                              Anyways, a small nit, but maybe you didn't know about the other longer, much better spring for the clutch return. I didn't, and after that, i have clutch.

                              Good luck.

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