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  • weber tips

    ok i just purchased my weber k55138 for my 84 cj7 last night, and im going to go put it in as soon as the sun comes up, i just wanted to know if anyone has some tips for me or any troubles that you may have come across, any help would be appreciated and if anyone wants to come over and tune it for me ill buy beer

  • #2
    Ummm, follow the directions.

    Sometimes it is necessary to grind a little off of the adapter bolt heads to get a good seal, but not usually.
    Be ready to tinker with the linkage to avoid some binding issues (i think make the vertical one shorter and the horizontal one longer).
    If you have to turn the idle speed screw out more than one turn... well don't (it messes things up). Find the 'real' problem instead and fix that.
    Check your timing (i prefer using a vacuum gauge for this).
    Take it out for a spin and FLOG it good... and marvel at the mystery of it actually idling.

    Do the 'nutter bypass' if you haven't already! Look at this: http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm and make yours like a pre-83' jeep. (if you don't do this your ignition timiing will be jumping all over the place and will idle/run kinda sporadically.

    Some more info here (including vacuum diagram and tips):
    http://www.4wd.com/kyoung_4wdforums/...ead.php?t=2101

    Look out for smog nazis.

    Good luck.
    Last edited by 86cj_wally; 03-03-2005, 02:08 PM.

    Comment


    • #3
      go back about 5 pages, there are some good threads there with vac diagrams and other stuff with photos on installing the weber, seems like a common theme, get a CJ, replace the Carter... maybe CJ doesnt really mean Civ Jeep, perhaps it means Carter's Junk...
      Good Luck,

      TD

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by 86cj_wally
        Ummm, follow the directions.

        Sometimes it is necessary to grind a little off of the adapter bolt heads to get a good seal, but not usually.
        Be ready to tinker with the linkage to avoid some binding issues (i think make the vertical one shorter and the horizontal one longer).
        If you have to turn the idle speed screw out more than one turn... well don't (it messes things up). Find the 'real' problem instead and fix that.
        Check your timing (i prefer using a vacuum gauge for this).
        Take it out for a spin and FLOG it good... and marvel at the mystery of it actually idling.

        Do the 'nutter bypass' if you haven't already! Look at this: http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm and make yours like a pre-83' jeep. (if you don't do this your ignition timiing will be jumping all over the place and will idle/run kinda sporadically.

        Some more info here (including vacuum diagram and tips):
        http://www.4wd.com/kyoung_4wdforums/...ead.php?t=2101

        Look out for smog nazis.

        Good luck.
        What he said...

        I took a little while for me to figure out how to run my linkage, but it worked great...

        As for tinkering....this is the tinker's carb...I evenutally threw a flat blade screw driver in my glove box so I could tinker with it everytime the weather changed...needing a valve job didn't help this either...

        Even with all the tinkering I still loved that carb


        Matt

        Comment


        • #5
          The adapter plates are prone to leak. Wipe their surfaces - as well as the intake - with Acetone to get them good and clean. Use a good sealant like Napa's Avaition Gasket Sealant on all sides when assembling. Torque the plates correctly.

          Like previously stated - read the directions well and take your time.

          Color me gone...
          Roll Bar Bound

          Comment


          • #6
            I second the sealant between the adapter plates. I use Gasket Maker #2. The brown stuff. You have to make absolutely sure there are no vacuum leaks or you never get it tuned properly. If you haven’t done so already, bypass the computer with the Nutter Bypass, along with the TFI upgrade. Or the HEI conversion. I recommend that before the carb change. Once you get the ignition side of the engine up to snuff, the Weber is icing on the cake.

            Comment


            • #7
              thanks for all the help, got it in and working, much better than the piece of crap carter. i got it tuned up alright, could probably be a little better im not the greatest carb tuner in the world but its working good untill i can find someone to tune it up better, i already did the nutter bypass before the weber i was hoping that would solve my problems but it didnt, the weber solved my problems, now if i could just get my wife to let me get a D.U.I. distributor this week ill be set, and again thanks for the help

              Comment


              • #8
                ok, im seriously confused on this nutter bypass. those links up there ^^, well, none of them seem to fit my jeep. the computer box for teh electronic ignition is in the engine compartment on the drivers side(258 I6 4.2) it says on the box motercraft AMC. is this not factory? ive got teh weber on, but havnt been able to start the jeep tey because there isnt a valve cover right now.. so its not tuned yet. thanks

                Comment


                • #9
                  The thing in the engine compartment is the "ignition module" not the computer. Stock location for the 'ignition module' is on the driver's fender underneath the windshield washer bottle.

                  The "computer" is located inside the dash, behind the glove box and above the heater.

                  Ya say your jeep is and 84, and jeeps 83-86 (and beyond YJ) have a computer. It is totally possible that your PO (previous owner) already did the nutter bypass, but not very likely.


                  Pic of ignition module (this one isn't orignal, but all look similar, with same plugs):
                  http://www.jeep4x4center.com/cj8/ignmod.jpg

                  Pic of computer location (kinda):
                  http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...r/dscn0646.gif
                  THe top arrow is pointing to where the wiring harness goes into the jeep, the bottom arrow is the mess of wires going to/from computer. The computer is on the other side of fire wall (see above), in the area of these wires is where you'll be splicing the one wire. The other one gets run from the ignition module over to the dizzy.

                  You do NOT have to remove the harness from the firewall as in the pic, you can simply splice it further down... this pic is for showing what wires can be removed (and aren't used at all) once the nutter is done.

                  G'luck.
                  Last edited by 86cj_wally; 03-07-2005, 01:58 AM.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    ok, that makes alot of sense. thanks.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      What model Weber replaces the Carter BBD on an 82 CJ7 w/ 258 ?

                      Are you putting a weber on your 258 ?

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        weber 38dges

                        I swapped my Carter for the DGES about a year ago, and it was well worth it...'course, ANYTHING woulda been an improvement over that stock POS. Gotta wonder what kinda twisted individuals Jeep hires for design engineers.
                        Anyhow, the 2 issues I experienced with the Weber install were #1. the adapter carb mounting studs would slip while tightening the mounting bolts, regardless of "Locktite". The studs don't have 'shoulders', and have the same threading the whole length, so the potential was there to drive them into the base adapter plate (which I did). This damages the gasket between the two adapter plates, but more significantly, forces the two plates apart resulting in a vacuum leak. I resolved this by going to NAPA and purchasing 'shouldered' studs, 1/4 inch longer than the Weber supplied ones (make sure the stud end that threads into the plate doesn't drive through to the other side, or you're back to where you started).
                        Issue #2 had to do with the adapter gaskets themselves....I had one hell of a time getting those boys to seal, even after doing the above stud swap. So, I bought a large sheet of gasket material, specific to carb apps, from the NAPA guys. This stuff has some kind of mega adhesive backing which worked very well to stop any leak potential. Using the Weber supplied gaskets as templates, I cut new gaskets out of the NAPA material. Time consuming, tedious BS, but it worked well.
                        Now, the BIG question is what do you do with all the emission vacuum garbage that was hooked to the Carter's mulltiple ports? I have a '89 Sahara, that has the most extensive, redundant emission vacuum mess ever designed. But, I've generally got the emission control stuff configured to the early '70's CJ configuration....Illegal? Well yeah, I suppose it is. But, at least I ain't walking, and my truck's running better than it ever did.
                        Finally, Nutter rules!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by RollBarBound
                          The adapter plates are prone to leak. Wipe their surfaces - as well as the intake - with Acetone to get them good and clean. Use a good sealant like Napa's Avaition Gasket Sealant on all sides when assembling. Torque the plates correctly.

                          Like previously stated - read the directions well and take your time.

                          Color me gone...
                          Roll Bar Bound

                          I had the leak problem at the plates when I installed my K551...short story...
                          I used header gasket material instead of the Weber gaskets and no more problems.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Done

                            Just put a new Carter BBD on. That thing runs great . I don't understand all your complaints about the Carter. Seems like the conversions to MC and Weber have headaches of their own.





                            Justin

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