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  • Exhaust Header Studs

    Anyone got any good ticks on how to get the studs out of the exhaust manifold? The threads where so worn down that I could not bolt the header exhaust pipe on. Now I can't get them out.....I am soaking them in PB Blaster and putting some heat to them, but they are really frozen.....any thoughts?

  • #2
    Which bolts?

    Are you talking the studs coming out of the head for attaching the exhaust manifold or header? I have yet to not have at least a few come out.
    If they are to the point where double nutting, heat and vise gripes wont remove them, you might as well go to the point of trying to twist them to the breaking point then drill and tap.
    Last edited by Kids Mechanic; 01-06-2008, 09:27 PM.

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    • #3
      I think what you will need is a stud remover and a little luck.

      A stud remover is a neat little tool that twists and grabs onto the stud at the same time, the harder you twist, the tighter it grabs. most good parts stores will have a decent one for sale. They run anywhere from $12-$50.

      Keep soaking it in blaster for a couple more days (upside down so the penetrant has a better chance of soaking in if you can). After that get the stud remover on there and twist. If they don't come out right away try a little heat and have a buddy tap the manifold lightly with a hammer while you are twisting. If they don't come out with that, you will be looking into cutting them off flush, then drilling and tapping the manifold.

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      • #4
        will the stud remover work if the threads are basically worn down to nothing?

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        • #5
          yes

          The stud remover will still work. I didnt bring it up a stud remover before becouse I thought you might have tried it. You just eventually will end up going to a smaller stud remover, till it wont work. If they are seized to that point youll just keep spinning steel off the stud till you get to the smallest one you have. Then if you have room cut the stud down and try again with the one that bites and use heat!! Craftsman makes a nice set of stud removers (last ones I saw were 19.95)if you dont already have. Sorry to butt in, tracraym but ,I had the same problem.
          If the stud still doesnt come out or breaks, there's a point where you need to sit back and say is it worth it? IE: time, trouble to drill, tap or just replace the head. Go with may be a new or used 4.0 or have yours rebuilt or a used 4.2? It all revolves around money.
          Last edited by Kids Mechanic; 01-07-2008, 04:49 PM.

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          • #6
            I've got a trick I've used loads of times on studs, it's effective on the most stuborn corroded in studs as it will get them hotter than almost anything else.
            Slide an oversize nut right over the stud until it sits touching the manifold.
            Next use a MIG welder (stick will do too) to weld the nut to the stud, and then keep building the weld up, keeping the nut/stud cherry red until you've built a lump about 4-5 times the original size of the nut.
            Let it cool then turn the lot with a pair of vise grip pliers (or weld a short bar to it).
            It could, possibly, expand the stud enough to split the manifold, but I haven't had that happen yet.

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            • #7
              I never thought about that one before, Thanks

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              • #8
                Broke them!!!

                Thanks for the tips.....snapped them off but made it work..........see attached pics...had to Macgyver them a bit......

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                • #9
                  Check out the pics......

                  http://www.flickr.com/photos/9382774@N07/page2/

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                  • #10
                    think this will show the pic....

                    I can rebuild a Jeep but I cna't upload a pic....something wrong here....http://www.flickr.com/photos/9382774@N07/2175941643/

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                    • #11
                      As far as posting the pics, I use Photobucket and it seems to work well.


                      As far as the exhaust manifold goes, I would recommend finding a set of brass nuts instead of the grade 8. All that heat tends to make bolts/nuts etc. hard to remove. If you use a brass nut, you can almost always get them off to effect repairs (worst case you strip the nut). I use brass nuts on all my exhaust parts and have never had a problem with them coming loose when I want them to stay on, or staying on when I want them off.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by CAD1976
                        I can rebuild a Jeep but I cna't upload a pic....something wrong here....http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2053/...677819.jpg?v=0
                        This is as close as you can come with flicker I think. Of course someone will prove me wrong...as always!

                        http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2053/...677819.jpg?v=0
                        Last edited by 47driver; 01-08-2008, 06:03 AM.

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                        • #13
                          Change From Grade 8 To Stainless

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by badtj98
                            Change From Grade 8 To Stainless
                            Not a really great idea badtj98.

                            While many think that stainless is the end all material due to its corrosion resistance, the 300 series stainless that most fasteners are made from (including 18-8 ) has a real problem with galling (cold welding). On low torque applications that do not require frequent disassembly, you can use stainless, but on other applications like exhaust bolts, your best to stay away.

                            We use stainless almost exclusively at work (underwater equipment) and we have tried most everything to keep fasteners from galling, Lubrication, surface treatments, etc. Finally we had to go custom machine a lot of fasteners from expensive materials like Nitronic 60 in order to get the galling resistance high enough to be serviceable.

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                            • #15
                              is there something im missing here?...i bought two new studs for my exhaust manifold from the dealership for 2 bucks

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