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  • HELP! New MC2100 and not running well!

    I'm hoping someone else is up at 11pm on a Sat night thinking about their Jeep!
    I spent the day installing my new MC2100 carb (No more Carter!), but now I can't get her running. I've adjusted the timing as best I can w/o a light (I know, I'm getting one tomorrow) and if I set it where it will start and idle, I sputters at higher RPM. If I smooth it out for higher RPM, then once I turn it off, it won't start up again.
    I got the carb kit from Mike in Colo Springs (ebay) like many of you guys, and I've talked to him a couple of times. He seems to think it's all timing. Any other ideas? I'm not much of a mechanic, but I'm stumped.
    Vac lines are all capped or connected.
    Fuel is getting to the carb and it is adjusted as well as it can be considering it hasn't really run much so far.
    Spark is coming from the coil.
    Anything I'm missing?

  • #2
    Only a couple things come to mind.


    Any vacuum leaks?
    Is the vacuum advance connected to the right port? (manifold vs ported or vice-a-versa)
    Is the vacuum advance hose plugged?

    Even without a light, you should be able to time it by ear well enough to run nice. Not much help I know.Good luck! HB

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    • #3
      Only other thing I could ask is are you getting ENOUGH spark. Most of us went with either an HEI or TFI along with the 2100.

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      • #4
        No vac leaks. Yes the vac advance is connected to ported vac. And yes the vac advance hose was plugged while trying to set timing.

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        • #5
          I don't know on the spark... I replaced the stock coil with a Flame Thrower coil which is supposed to put out more spark without having to change anything else from the stock setup. My plugs are gapped at 0.045. And it ran ok before the carb swap. Obviously not too well which was the reason for the carb swap. But it didn't run any differently old coil to new coil.

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          • #6
            I have the larger conversion dist. cap and 7mm wires also. Everything to get more fire to the plugs. My plugs are a loose .40

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            • #7
              Timing was a PITA for me. I'm sitting at about 6 to 8 right now, seems to do well at 4000 ft elevation. I set it by Mike's directions and had to back it way off. I even carried my light with me for a week to do roadside corrections until I got it right.

              Clean up your timing pointer really well. I carried a white crayon to mark the notch too...I just couldn't see it without it.

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              • #8
                Thanks for the replies. I had a mechanic buddy come by today with his light. The timing was WAY off. Got that set at about 10 BTDC, got the choke set, then it was flooding. Adjusted the float (I think I've read some threads here about guys needing to do that with the 2100). Then we couldn't get it started. Seems to not want to start when hot cause it did ok when cold. Well (sorry long story), one of his coworkers is a carb guy, so he sugested I just tow it to his shop and they'd look at it tomorrow. So, and hour or so later I'm ready to tow it in and decide to try and start it. Starts up! I drive it to the shop, no problems. Get it there, it idles ok, I shut 'er down, and try to start 'er up. Starts right up! I do this a couple of times! Go figure. Anyway, decided to leave it just to have someone who knows more than me (not saying much) go over it. I'll keep you posted.

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                • #9
                  It was afraid of going to the shop!! So it started acting like it should!!

                  I'm tellin' ya, CJ's have a mind of thier own! And heart and soul, too!

                  Glad it's running! Let us know what the carb guy finds, if anything. I'm doing the 2100 swap as soon as I get my engine back.

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                  • #10
                    Hey KingChip, I just noticed you're in Marble Falls. That makes us neighbors! Quick ?s on the TFI upgrade. I've read almost all the threads on it. Is it really just a matter of changing the dist base, cap and rotor, and coil? Is it really that easy? Everything else stays the same right? ie: ignit module, plugs and wires, etc? My plugs are new, as are the wires, and I already upgraded the coil to a higher output. So, I would just need the cap and rotor and base plate for an '80s F150 w/ I6 right?

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                    • #11
                      That might be part of the problem, by upgrading the coil but not the cap.

                      Bigger spark needs more room, in the small cap, it can bounce from post to post, becuas they're so close together. The larger cap has the posts for the plug wires farther apart, preventing the arc from 'jumping' and hitting the wrong post.

                      Could explain why it was so hard to time.

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                      • #12
                        Yea man, finally a member closer than a couple hundred or thousand miles.

                        Again, I'm no mechanic and itis easy. Some recommend a hotter plug also, but I just gapped mine out. 'll go hotter next go round. Absolutely the hardest part is two self tapping screws to anchor your coil to the fenderwell. I didn't hunt down a dist adaptor base because the junk yards are in east Austin and after a half tank of gas to get there, ordering is easier. Therefore, the base you speak of is beyond me, but there is a post in here somewhere that spec's the NAPA parts exactly. Good Luck with it, and let us know how it goes.

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                        • #13
                          you can get the whole works from Advance Auto...i got all my parts for an 84 F-150 with the 300 ci. motor...you need: Base Adapter, Dis. Cap & Rotor, Plug Wires, and a coil

                          there are a few rules with which you should pick your parts though...heres the ones i know:

                          1. get a cap with brass terminals (not aluminum like the ones in the ebay kit)
                          2. get the base adapter that screws down and not the one that clips down
                          3. get a good set of wires 8mm or better (most likely these will be custom fit, also know as cut and crimp)
                          4. they sell a canister type coil for these trucks....avold it like the plague, thats what your getting rid off

                          i got the Blue Streak Cap, cheapo screw down base (Blue Streak base was discontinued, they said), Accel E-Coil, Accel 8mm cut and crimp wires, and i regapped my plugs to .45

                          plus: you can make your own terminal connections to the coil, or you can go to NAPA and get the OEM coil connector harness

                          P.S. the real trick is going in there, not mentioning the Jeep, and getting the guy to let you see his computer screen so you know what your getting...and do not mention the Jeep...parts guys seem to have a stroke every time i mention that a part is not to be used on the intended vehicle


                          Good Luck!!!
                          Last edited by the Captain; 01-21-2008, 09:31 PM.

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                          • #14
                            Ask for parts for an '86 Ford F150 with a 300 I6.
                            Plug wires should work too.

                            Summit Racing has everything online too, as well as decent 8mm plug wire kits. I think NAPA has the connector plug to hook up the coil, but I think spade connectors will work too.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by the Captain View Post
                              .................................................. ...................
                              P.S. the real trick is going in there, not mentioning the Jeep, and getting the guy to let you see his computer screen so you know what your getting...and do not mention the Jeep...parts guys seem to have a stroke every time i mention that a part is not to be used on the intended vehicle


                              Good Luck!!!

                              Isn't that the truth!!

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