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  • rear pinion seal

    hey guys , i been wrestling this leaking rear pion seal since my build . i have put in new seals , and a new pinion ( which slowed it down). after a drive i may have 3 drops on the floor ,( don't laugh.. , it's making me nuts !) i have no binding , vibrations or noise , and have not had to replace a u-joint (yet ) . do you think i need to lower my transfer case ? and if so , how much ? i have 3 1/2 inches of lift . i posted some pics if it helps, click on them to enlarge

  • #2
    This may be a dumb question to ask but you said you put a new pinion in... Did you buy a rebuild kit when you did this? The reason I ask is because when you put in a new pinion you need a new crush sleeve which is in the rebuild kit. If you didn't then that may be the cause or if the crush sleeve is crushed to much it can cause it to be tight and after time leak.


    • #3
      i did the rebuild kit , still leaks . it always leaked right from the git-go . i thought maybe the angle had something to do with it , ...


      • #4
        I could only assume it has to be the angle then. Did you shim in the axle upwards when you did the susp lift?

        It would have to be getting in the pinion in a upright angle to make it out of round on the top which would let it leak. Only other idea is if the housing were the seal sits is out of normal shape not making a good seal.

        The first picture doesn't look bad but the second picture does show some good angle but it's hard to tell in a picture.

        This is a terrible pic but here is what mine looks like from the top; As you can see the angle in to the diff isn't that great because I've have shims to roll the axle up some.


        • #5
          How old is the yoke itself? If you have not replaced the yoke, have you installed a speedy sleeve to cover up the groove made by the old seal?

          When you installed the bearings with the rebuild kit, did the race fit tightly in the housing?

          I would either replace the yoke, or install a sleeve (if not already done) then balance the drive-shaft (you may not even feel vibrations that can ruin a seal). Install a new crush sleeve, front bearing (you may be able to reuse the old one if it isn't too old) and seal coat the backside of the seal with RTV silicone when you install it. Remember to coat the seal lip with oil too.

          Also when you install the yoke, coat the splines with RTV silicone. (Some folks even put a little silicone on the backside of the nut and washer, but I think it all just squishes out.) Tighten the nut down per the manual procedure with NO SHORTCUTS. I know pulling the cover off and pulling out the axle shafts are a pain, but it is the only way to get the correct preload on the bearing and that will make a difference in seal life.

          Good luck.


          • #6
            take a look at the pinion itself witout the bearing or seal on it, its just like a crankshaft with a rear main seal, if its old theres a possibilibty that the old pinion seal got hard and wore a groove in the pinion, then replacing the pinion might be the only fix, it sucks but it happens quite frequently in old vehicles, best of luck to ya!


            • #7
              im sorry i didnt see you said you put a pinion in it, if you can geta micrometer, take a few measurements and see if the housing is out of round where the pinion seal sits, if thats the case, you might want to consider a new axle housing or think of an axle upgrade!


              • #8
                yeah i did put a new yoke in it , but did not use the rtv as trackym said in his post , balancing the driveshaft is a good idea too , i thought as long as i had no vibrations i was good to go . hey brian, are you telling me that i should have a slight tilt up on the yoke ? i think mine is pretty flat (just looking at it ) if it is, would it be better to drop the transfer case , or shim the axel ? thanks for the good advice trackym !... man... i hope i don't have to look for a new axel housing , otherwise i'll have to look for new housing !! the wife said the only thing i haven't bought for this jeep is an engagment ring !


                • #9
                  clean it up good, then take it for a short drive. Find out for sure if it's leaking where the yoke goes in, or where the seal fit's into the housing. (May be hard to do, with the seal guard on the yoke)

                  I think Tracrym is right, I know I've had them leak around the housing.

                  I used 'aviation form a gasket' from Perm-a-tex, it's black and sticky, but doesn't squish out like RTV. Either will work, I just prefer the form a gasket.

                  And as mentioned, put some oil or grease on the seal portion, where the yoke actually rides. Installing the yoke dry, then start spinning it before the gearlube gets up there, will tear/friction burn the seal, cuasing it to drip.

                  Also reinspect the yoke, even being new, it may have a defect or burr.
                  Some emory cloth should smooth it, or a speedi-sleeve would work also.


                  • #10

                    Did you get it to seal or NO? I know a few tricks if you didn't.


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Kids Mechanic View Post
                      Did you get it to seal or NO? I know a few tricks if you didn't.
                      Enlighten us because my (CJ factory) D-44 just started to drip (ain't bad for 22 yrs old) after a weeks worth of 22*-32* weather a couple of weeks ago.
                      All I need to do is pop off the yoke & replace the seal.



                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Kids Mechanic View Post
                        Did you get it to seal or NO? I know a few tricks if you didn't.
                        i'm all ears !