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  • AMC 20 solid axle install and removal tips

    I Finally got some one piece axles(alloy usa) to replace my broken 2-piece axles. I am just looking for some advice on the removal and installation. I plan on doing it next weekend and want to make sure I do it right so I don't have any problems. It looks pretty straight forward but any tips are welcome. Thank you. I can't wait to get moving again.

  • #2
    Well, just make sure you have the bearings going on the right way and certainly make sure you have the brake backing plate on the axle right or you will have the press the bearings back off and order new one's. I did the left side great, then on the right side I had slid the brake backing plate onto the axle, then pressed the bearings on then realzed the brake shoes were going to be on the wring side of the axle, i cussed, then reordered a new bearing.

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    • #3
      Jason gave excellent advice. The only thing I may add this, dont waste your time seperating the old axles. I tried seperating them at first and ended up just wasting time. It is easier to take the out as a pair imo.

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      • #4
        i'm not sure if it is just for rear disk brakes or not but i had to shim my end play on the axle

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        • #5
          be sure to re-install your shims if there are any. and pack your bearing if not already. Oh and the seals that came with mine are already leaking after less than a month

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          • #6
            Solid axles made easy

            1. Jack and support rear end on jack stands. Block front wheels.
            2. Remove Differential cover and drain oil.
            3. Remove Tire
            4. Remove all brake parts and the drums (you will have to remove brake lines and cap the line ends)
            5. Unbolt the brake backing plates from the axle shaft and REMOVE the 4bolts.
            6. Label the backing plates Left & Right
            7. Remove two piece axles / bearings and backing plates as a whole assembly - you don't need a hub puller.
            8. Clean axle shafts and remove old oil seals from the shafts.
            9. Cut the races of the original bearings with a grinder or a pair of dykes. You don't need them anymore and it eliminates the need for a hub puller.
            10. After original bearings have been cut off slide backing plates off original axels. Original axles are now trash.
            11. Press or screw in new wheel studs to new axles. This depends on the kind of kit. I used a 20ton press for this.
            12. Press bearings (remember to pack them first), spacers, outer oil seal plate, and backing plates on new axles. Follow directions that came w/ the axles. Note to self...press the backing plates on the correct way (brake spring pin facing out) to the correct axle shafts, the shafts are different lengths depending on the side.
            13. Insert new oil seal into each axle.
            14. Carefully slide new solid axles into shafts, bolt to shafts I forget the correct TQ.
            15. Put brake assembly (springs, self adjusters, pads, lines, etc...) back together, Left and right. When fully assembled remember to bleed the brake lines. * Good time to clean or install new pads or parts.
            16. Reinstall differential cover, a new gasket would be nice. And refill with oil.
            17. Put tires back on.

            This is what I recall. I've done this on a few CJs for friends. Should take about two hours. It always takes me about eight hours...ha ha. If I have forgotten or misspelled anything, I'm sure some troll on this site will correct me.

            Good Luck.
            Last edited by youn6372; 01-28-2008, 01:09 PM.

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            • #7
              Thank you all for the info. I am looking forward to getting it done. As far as the press goes is it absolutely necesary to use one to press on the bearings? The step by step info is the best that I have seen so far. Thanks again.

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              • #8
                a press is mandatory...you can take the whole mess to a machine shop or auto shop and get them to do it for ya too...bring the directions for the mechanic with you also...good luck...don't forget the backing plates...not that i did or anything...uhh, i'm just sayin

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                • #9
                  Hey, let me know when you are going to do it! I'm moving on the 2nd, but I can swing by and help a little at least.

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                  • #10
                    I don't mean to hijack your thread, but I'm in the middle of doing an axle change-over right now. Quick question to you guys that have already done this... where the bearing has the .020-.080" stickout form the tube, did anyone shim that space, or does it compress during the final bolting up? I don't feel comfortable leaving a space there.
                    Some guys talk about removing the Thrust Block, because the axles may hit them. If the axles were too long by 1/8" or less, couldn't the new shafts be belt sanded down a little?

                    I just now ordered new outer axle seal dust covers, as mine were shot. So, now thw garage is tied up again until I get them...It's always something. I can never do an upgrade without discovering that I have to order something that I didn't plan on...

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                    • #11
                      finally

                      I put the axles in finally and what should have taken 2 hours took about 8. MY only advice is the right tools make all the difference, and don't press the bearings on too far. Thank goodness the local auto parts store had the right size bearing to install after getting the newly broken brand new bearing off. I learned a lot today. My Jeep feels whole again. Now on the the next upgrade.

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