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  • New Electrical Wiring CJ-7

    As many of you already know my Jeep is being reconstructed on an Indian Burial Ground and the Spirits are serious pissed with me.......


    That aside....started running wires today...High end Painless kit, everything is labled and nice and organized, following the directions to the letter. Even stoped twice to run out for parts today so I don't miss a step! (Iginition switch shattered and brake push button switch was basically rotted out)

    Question: Tips, sugggestions, experience, etc??????????? Manual says a 10amp charge before connecting to the battery. What did you use for that?.....I am moving very slow on the wiring and then hopefully just chasing grounds.......99% new wiring with the exception of the ignition module, wiring from tranny to engine, and distributor......past pains are greatly appreciated so lessen mine!

    Thx!

    PS Thank god I start my new job on Monday...2 months on the Jeep is more than enough!!!! ha!

  • #2
    Are you planning on sticking with the old 1976 ignition system? Don't.

    Even if you have new wiring, think about adding relays for the headlights. I took a relay/fuse block out of a Neon and modifying it to work with my harness. I'll have relays for high and low beams, plow lights, strobe lights and some spares left over for fuel pump for a MPFI modification later. And it all comes in a nice weather proof box. Cost $10.00


    Fiberglass tub, hope you got the harness with the added ground leads. IF not, add them now before installing them. Pick a single color for ground, black preferably as this will go along with the original color code. Then pick a single ground point to run all these grounds.

    You can put 50% of the harness on the back of the dash, Lay the dash out on the bench when wiring and then mount the dash. Just dont forget that it has to go over the steering wheel supports.

    What year harness did you get? 1976? I would of recommended getting one for a 79. I actually upgraded my 1976 CJ to a 1984 CJ harness.
    Last edited by John Strenk; 01-31-2008, 07:43 AM.

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    • #3
      I used the painless 10110? kit only a few small problems
      the techs at painless helped out
      I put a sbc with an auto and qtrac case
      The onlt 2 things I couldn't get to work were the oil press and temp gauges
      I swaped over to mechanical type in the 2 holes above the radio slot and put the amp gauge in the glove box
      They also told me the the diagrams for that kit were messed up and were being redone
      Once I thought I was done I just used the 12v battery and used my nose for hot smell and felt as many wires for heat as I could got lucky I guess
      Last edited by rolrandy; 01-31-2008, 09:57 AM.

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      • #4
        I agree with John on wiring the dash while on the work bench, with all switches, lights and gauges installed. And remember it has to go over the colum. The one ground wire I missed was to the blower fan. One wire motor requires being grounded. Figured it out after all the heater duct work was reinstalled. Had to epoxy a ground to the motor housing which sticks out the firewall.Didn't want to pull the whole mess out again.

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        • #5
          I used the painless 10110 as well.

          The only problem I've having is when I hit the brakes the turn signals in the speedometer come on along with the signals inside the brake lights. I'm thinking this maybe a ground issue?
          Also I left the YJ brake pedal and switch in so the plug the wireing harness came with did not match up so I had to end up cutting the end off and clip them onto the post of the YJ switch.

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          • #6
            10 amp

            The reason it tells you to do that is so if you wired something wrong you wont fry your new wiring I used a 4amp battery charger when installing a painless in my 74 Charger. It worked good for double checking my many f**k ups.

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