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  • MC 2100 Vacuum Hose Routing


    I'm still trying to get my MC 2100 install done. Right now the engine will start & run with the manual choke closed. After it's warmed up as soon as I try to open the choke it dies.
    It will not idle with the choke open.
    I have the non smog style of the MC 2100 & I'm trying to figure out what to do with the EGR system, PCV, purge canister, CTO switch, etc. so I can rule out any vacuum problems while trying to get my Jeep running.
    I have a diagram that shows routing of these lines if you click on the link:

    My first time using this link method so I hope you guys can see it. If not I would still welcome any help or input.



  • #2
    That diagram is the way I routed my vacuum on the 2100. I'm having the same problems right now, until the engine is good and warm the choke needs to be pulled. I haven't messed with it to much yet, as it's been cold out.

    I did take it for a run today, and once everything was warmed up it ran great on the road. Now if the weather cooperates, I'll get it dialed in this week.


    • #3
      That's exactly the way I ran it, except I went with electric choke. Mt only problem is that it starts SO WELL, that if I don't give enough throttle, the choke doesn't engager. I have to give it gas to engage it. Is that a problem?


      • #4
        Originally posted by kingchip View Post
        That's exactly the way I ran it, except I went with electric choke. Mt only problem is that it starts SO WELL, that if I don't give enough throttle, the choke doesn't engager. I have to give it gas to engage it. Is that a problem?

        It shouldn't be a problem. You should hit the gas pedal as you pull out a manual choke, or just hit it once before turning over an electric or automatic choke. This will set the carb on the ''high idle'' cam, and allow the choke plate to close fully.

        Once the choke plate opens, (or is pushed in manually) a tap on the gas pedal will bring the engine back down to normal idle.


        • #5
          Thanks Hillbilly,

          For some reason the guy that sold me the carb reccomends that I get rid of the EGR & cap off the CTO switch & remove the purge canister completley.

          I'm a little hesitant to do this because I think there could be an emmission benefit with the EGR & doesn't the gas tank need to be vented?

          I never did take the Jeep for a drive the day I fired it up with the new carb, maybe it needed to get out on the road to get really warmed up instead of idling in my garage for 10 to 15 minutes.

          I'm going to run my vacuum hoses just like the diagram shows.

          Thanks for your input it makes me feel alot better,



          • #6
            The charcoal cannister may be your problem. I removed mine and it's running great. I also removed the EGR valve.

            You should be able to run both the cannister and EGR valve with no problems, if everything is working OK.

            Try disconnecting the 'T' that splits the PCV valve and charcoal cannister, and just run the PCV valve to the carb. If it runs good, than you have problems with the cannister.

            The fuel tank does need to be vented. I put a small filter on the vent line where it used to run into the charcoal cannister.


            • #7
              I did try to run the PCV isolated from the purge canister with no change.

              I also removed the EGR blew some carbon out of it & tested operation & it seemed to work fine.

              Thanks for the tips I appreciate it,



              • #8
                I'm still having some problems with taking off from a stop. It hesitates unless I either rev it up and slip the clutch, or choke it a bit. (neither is good!)

                So tody I broke down and bought a timing light. So far I had timed it by ear and then by vacuum. Both were way off. I now have it set at 9 deg BTDC, and it's running well at idle and driving, but stil hesitates at take off. I'm going to try new jets (#46) and some thread sealant on the jets and power valve. I need to find a 2 stage powervlave thats set at 9.5hi/ 3.5lo, but NAPA can only order the single stage. Not sure if I can convert my carb to single stage or not. Time for more research.


                • #9
                  Good luck Hill Bille.
                  I broke down & had my Carter rebuilt at a reputable carburetor shop. I got my Jeep back today & it's running great.
                  I'm still going through the rest of the mechanical systems, next on my list is an intake manifold gasket replacement, replace all hoses, flush & fill all fluids, replace oil pan gasket & check brakes.
                  Once that is done it's the fun stuff, suspension, wheels, paint & a new softtop.
                  Wait, I think I need money first.... DAMMIT!!




                  • #10
                    Glad to hear it's up and running! The carter is a good carb. Mine has one of the idle adjusment needles broke off in it, so I went with the 2100.

                    Hopefully you can get a refund for the 2100.