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  • Tranny and T-case Crossmember

    hey ya'll, i am posting alot due to the jeep still waitingon some parts which is allowing me to do so of the more extensive modifications. when i dropped the new motor in, actually before, i moved the frame mounts up an inch and had a 1" plate steel spacer cut for the actual motor mounts to allow me to place the motor tranny and t-case 2" higher in the body of the jeep, since i already had the 2" body lift on and could. so now that i did this i was able to build a 1/2" thick crossmember for the tranny and t-case with a belly plate setup. i bolted the crossmember up and i then let it loose of the jack i was surprised to see the 1/2" x 5 inch piece of plate bow slightly, should i weld a 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" of angle on the rear of the crossmember(back of jeep) to stiffin it up? right now it sits at exactly 2 1/8" above stock but before it was dropped and bowed it was 2 1/4" above stock, so it is a pretty substantian bow. also is there a cheap and easy way to clock the t-case a little bit. it is almost flat but still need to go up a 1 or so to get completly flat, the bowing is and issue just as much as the t-case cause i need it completly flat so the bellypan i am in the process of making only has to be notched for the driveshafts... below are some pics, if you look at the first one you can see the bow, and the last one you can see how little i really need to take the t-case up.

    http://img88.exs.cx/img88/7172/crossmember2wl.jpg

    http://img88.exs.cx/img88/1893/crossmember38ga.jpg

  • #2
    Flatbar is weak in that orientation. I would tend to go back to the original skidplate and build something to space under the tranny and t/c. I am curious as to why you would raise the motor/driveline 2".

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    • #3
      read the whole thing again, i raised it cause i had the motor out anyways and i want the driveline as high as possible to keep outa as much mud, water, off the rocks etc, 2 in. may not sound like alot but in these situations it is... and i wanted a real, not a fake, flat belley pan, the reason i pulled the old one is due to it hangin down almost 6-7 inch below the jeep...my question is will angle(1 1/2x 1 1/2 x 1/4) stop the bow and get it to stay straight?

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      • #4
        I would bang out something in thick steel. This will help with flex and solve your problems with the protection. If you can't form something out of steel then you should find someone who can. It would be well worth your saftey.

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        • #5
          Definitely gonna need something beefier than that... atleast some 1x2 square or 1 or 1.5 tubing, or something much more like the original. Try, try, try again til ya got it right, first time i fabbed anything up it must have taken me a month and about 1,000 tries, but it's all just about figuring out what mistakes not to make, and how to fix the mistakes that you do make.

          Oh and got exhaust leaks?
          http://img88.exs.cx/img88/1893/crossmember38ga.jpg
          Might want to find some of those fancy clamps that take the pressure off the sheet metal of flange... after beating the flange back straight.

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          • #6
            i have to agree with the rest in that it doesn't look all that sturdy. since you're fabbing it, why not make it bigger and curved up at the front so it will slide over the rocks instead of getting hooked on them. this would allow it to have more contact with the frame rails for better support to. just my 2 cents.

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            • #7
              actually no exaust leaks...its got one of those 3/16" thick gaskets on it, i love to sound of sides but on a jeep seeing regular off roading those damn little bolts like to hang up on stuff, that is the 3rd set i have had to put on it...oh and fubar that is just the crossmember, not skid plate i am building a half inch steel belly pan that goes on over that for a skid, that is just to hold the tranny a t-case up so i can access it with out having to have a jack it up due to the skid being pulled, as it was originaly designed, this design will allow me to drop the skid and such witout having to have a jack. welded on 2"x 2" angle on both front and rear of the plate steel and no flexing at all with a 210 lbs friend jumping on it... i had to notch on some of it to clear the yokes and from shaft, but tomorrow i am goin to drive my grand onto the cross with one end on a cinder block and see if it holds, if it does then i am in good shape if not i will have to figure something else out.

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              • #8
                ok got the crossmember beefed up...instead of angling both front and rear with 1/4" angle i only did the rear and i used 5/16" angle, way more beefy...actually put one end of the cross on the ground and the other on cinder blocks then i drove my '99 grand cherokee up on it and no flexing or audible cracking sound ... i figure if it had broke or hear any crackin i would just start over instead fo taking the risk...no the goo news is it has no bow at all, bad news is i still need to clock the t-case....doh! but anyways here are a few pics of it and my weld (i think the weld sucks)...what do ya'll think of the weld, i personally think it could be better but my friends all tell me it looks really good...i am self taught and have only had about 2 months at it, took the leap and said where is the fun in taking it somewhere...

                http://img88.exs.cx/img88/5259/crossmember41zo.jpg

                http://img88.exs.cx/img88/6853/weld4ol.jpg

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