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  • One Piece Axle Kit Question???

    What are the differences and positives and negatives of a one piece rear axle kit for the AMC 20 and the Warn rear full floating axle kit?

  • #2
    They are two different things for two different purposes.
    The full floater is so when an axle breaks your jeep is not totally stopped. Also it provides other benefits such as weight distribution, a easier fail system to protect driveline parts.
    The one piece axle is just to remedy the problem of spinning hubs.

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    • #3
      I have been wondering this same thing lately. I understand the basic idea behind the full floating kit, but not totally. Would that be a better option than the 1-piece axles if you are running larger than the recommended 31" tire?

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      • #4
        I have a 2.5'' suspension lift and a 1'' body lift and 33'' tires. I am just wondering if i need to do something to the rear axle now or just wait until i break it.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by beastiebrad
          I have a 2.5'' suspension lift and a 1'' body lift and 33'' tires. I am just wondering if i need to do something to the rear axle now or just wait until i break it.
          Well most of the time it doesn't really break, it strips.
          The Warn full floating option is nice if you do some serious wheeling. It allows your driveline to be failsafe. Nice system to go with if you have a good chunk of money laying around. Warn has what they call fuses, these keep your U-joints from popping and driveshafts from breaking. They provide the weakest point of failure. Easier to replace a plastic clip then U-joints.
          Plus if you break an axle with the full floter axle you can still limp out or home.
          Which am I going to do on my trail rig? One piece axle.
          As for when to do it. Keep the money in an account and wait till it strips out.
          Unless this is a DD then I would do it proactively. You wouldn't want to not be able to get work, you need to make money to do more mods.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by athenscj5
            I have been wondering this same thing lately. I understand the basic idea behind the full floating kit, but not totally. Would that be a better option than the 1-piece axles if you are running larger than the recommended 31" tire?
            I run a set of BFG 33" on a set of crappy M20 two piece axles. It is all a matter of how much you get on it. I also do not do serious off road with this setup either.

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            • #7
              I am not fully aware of the warn full floating kit, but the basic idea behind the full floating axel is that the "hub" is attached to the housing and is simply driven off of the axel shaft, if the shaft breaks, the "hub" or wheel has no more power, but is still able to roll and keeps the all 4 wheels on the ground!

              The one piecers are set up without the full floating option which means the wheel is bolted to the "hub" welded at the end of the axel. Or in the case of the two piece axels, the "hub" is glued to axel and its just matter of time before the glue comes apart. In any rate, I have never seen a hub actually come apart on a two piece and lose a wheel, like Lost-One said, they usually just spin loose and thus have no more power going to them, however you can still drive on them (much like the full floating axels)!!!

              I would go with the one pieces, they won't break and thus you shouldn't have any probs ... plus you can save lots of $$$!

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              • #8
                Well from experience, it does not take much to spin the shaft in the hub. I did it on the street just starting from a stop. It was a '80 CJ5 with a 304, 4 speed, and 31's. And it was not a nice sound driving on it (about 1/2 a mile from home when it happened). Can you drive with it, yes, but I would not recommend it.
                If I were to have another 20, I would get some Moser 1 piece and be done with it. The warn are nice, but as said above, expensive.

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                • #9
                  Ahhhh, they stay in there longer than you think .... I spent a week in moab after I spun one putting it on the trailer to go out.... ran on it the whole week!! wasn't in too good of shape when we made it home, and chewed the hell out of the other tire??? But damn it ... it made it

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by beastiebrad
                    What are the differences and positives and negatives of a one piece rear axle kit for the AMC 20 and the Warn rear full floating axle kit?
                    The positives of the 1pc and ff is it strengthens the axle.

                    The negatives is you still have an amc20, which antiquainted hardware... and now you've stuck 300+ dollars into it.

                    I'd go with a D44 or 9inch or 8.8 axle, and try to time purchasing an axle for when the amc20 dies.

                    *i'm not saying the amc20 is a bad/weak design, just saying it can be tough and expensive to get decent parts for it. Also, i'm not saying the amc20 can't be strong, i'm just saying for less money you could have a whole new axle if ya buy something run-of-the-mill or used and as strong as a build 20*

                    Oh, and you still have drum brakes and an axle tube that's pressed into the diff and open gears and....
                    Last edited by 86cj_wally; 03-23-2005, 05:02 PM.

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                    • #11
                      Well, I agree that an 8.8 or a 44 would be better as far as strength and parts, most people do not have the ability to do the fab work required for a swap like this. You can do a axle shaft swap in your driveway, no real special tools needed than can't be borrowed from a parts store. For less than $600, I can have a 20 with 1 piece shafts and a lock rite and install it myself.
                      Now I do have access to equipment to do the welding and such, but still not sure if I would do an 8.8. I have never been able to find an 8.8 complete for less than $750; maybe just an area thing, and then need to re-gear the front to match the 3.73 or 4.10 that it comes with, or match the 8.8 to the front.
                      I have no idea on a price for a 44 for a CJ.
                      Last edited by Blupupher; 03-23-2005, 05:50 PM.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Blupupher
                        Well, I agree that an 8.8 or a 44 would be better as far as strength and parts, most people do not have the ability to do the fab work required for a swap like this. You can do a axle shaft swap in your driveway, no real special tools needed than can't be borrowed from a parts store. For less than $600, I can have a 20 with 1 piece shafts and a lock rite and install it myself.
                        Now I do have access to equipment to do the welding and such, but still not sure if I would do an 8.8. I have never been able to find an 8.8 complete for less than $750; maybe just an area thing, and then need to re-gear the front to match the 3.73 or 4.10 that it comes with, or match the 8.8 to the front.
                        I have no idea on a price for a 44 for a CJ.
                        Agreed, it would be more work, and probably more money in the end to swap axles in reality... but it just seems it would be better in the end, much better.
                        But maybe i just hate drum brakes more than i should. I figure disc brakes would be worth about 200-300 to me (especially since it would take about 400 to put on a amc20, or thereabouts).
                        I guess i've been assuming something i shouldn't... does the YJ bolt in 8.8's slap right into a CJ also? I had assumed the spring perches were the same distance/style, but i guess i don't really know that. (the one here is what i'm referring to: http://www.ok4wd.com/product.asp?id=547 )
                        Yeah it sucks that the bolt pattern would be different, but front could be changed easily enough, and wagon wheels are cheap. I guess if you have bling bling 5on5 wheels that would be a bigger issue.

                        9inch would be awesome... but kinda overkill too without loads of HP.
                        D44's new from places like currie to bolt in cost like 1200 and up (probably up to about 6k if ya wanted). And i guess they're a little tough to find used.

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                        • #13
                          I wouldn't recommend driving too far after your 2 piece M20 comes apart. I've had this happen twice and both times my left rear tire past me with the axle shaft still attached

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by beastiebrad
                            What are the differences and positives and negatives of a one piece rear axle kit for the AMC 20 and the Warn rear full floating axle kit?
                            positives are that it's stronger than you'll probably need, won't leave you stranded, won't need replaced every time you hit it hard, etc.

                            negatives are price

                            an amc 20 with one piece and welded tubes is stronger than a d44 any day of the week.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by 86cj_wally
                              Agreed, it would be more work, and probably more money in the end to swap axles in reality... but it just seems it would be better in the end, much better.
                              But maybe i just hate drum brakes more than i should. I figure disc brakes would be worth about 200-300 to me (especially since it would take about 400 to put on a amc20, or thereabouts).
                              I guess i've been assuming something i shouldn't... does the YJ bolt in 8.8's slap right into a CJ also? I had assumed the spring perches were the same distance/style, but i guess i don't really know that. (the one here is what i'm referring to: http://www.ok4wd.com/product.asp?id=547 )
                              Yeah it sucks that the bolt pattern would be different, but front could be changed easily enough, and wagon wheels are cheap. I guess if you have bling bling 5on5 wheels that would be a bigger issue.

                              9inch would be awesome... but kinda overkill too without loads of HP.
                              D44's new from places like currie to bolt in cost like 1200 and up (probably up to about 6k if ya wanted). And i guess they're a little tough to find used.
                              you can do a rear disc swap on a 20 a lot cheaper than 400.

                              im still looking for the article that was over on pirate, ended up using front rotors off a Sami, calipers off a nissan z, and a mounting bracket homemade from 1/4".

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