Announcement Announcement Module
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Intermittant runing 258 Page Title Module
Move Remove Collapse
X
Conversation Detail Module
Collapse
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Intermittant runing 258

    My 258 just started skipping, stalling while driving and once and while a backfire. Thought it was the YF so I rebuilt that didn't help. Thought it might be the HEI distributor. Reinstalled the stock points system. Seemed to take care of the problem at first. NOT...
    Well, Back to square one!! . When it warmed up good all heck breaks loose again. It coughs, spits, sputters and even backfires. I am at my wits end trying to think what it could be. Could the timing have jumped and still be able to change distributors and get it running? I know when I put the distributor in the rotor was more towards 3o'clock maybe 3:30. I didn't think it mattered as long as I routed the spark plug wires correctly with the firing order. When the problem isn't exhibiting itself it runs good.

    I don't have a different carb to through on it to rule that out entirely, but it seemed to be fine when I took it apart yesterday. I threw the new accelorator pump and needle and seat in anyway.
    Anyone run into this before with your 258?

  • #2
    Were you kidding about reinstalling the points? I only ask just to help diagnose. It shouldn't matter exactly where the dizzy is pointing as long as the rotor is at #1 plug at TDC (with a little room to adjust timing). I don't think the timing jumped. If you, in fact, are having the same troubles with the stalling with the HEI and the points systems, it's looking like it's fuel related. Does the stalling occur at stops more than while driving, after it's good and hot?
    Last edited by willness33; 04-06-2008, 08:58 PM.

    Comment


    • #3
      That's just it, the rotor doesn't point to the no1 cylinder at TDC. It is about 3 or maybe 3:30. I didn't know if that would matter, I just put the wires in the proper firing order in relation to the rotor and it runs.
      It stalls sometimes at idle sometimes while driving down the road, it's like I turned the key off and all of a sudden it will catch again, pick up some rpm and do it again. Then it back fire, and I mean loud. My problem first started 8 days ago on my way to work, I felt a few misses in the engine and by the time I got to work, only 1-1/2miles, I barely got it parked. It wouldn't start after work and had to be towed home. got it going the next morning and it ran fine for a week, then Friday it started in again. I rebuilt carb saturday, thinking it was fuel related. It didn't help. I put a new fuel filter on, the see thru type. getting plenty of fuel. Put the points distrib. back in and thought it might be fixed. Then it all started again after driving about 10 smooth uneventful miles this morning.
      I plan on doing a compression test tomorrow afternoon.
      Your right changing back to the points distributor didn't help, so as soon as I figure the problem out I will be reinstalling the HEI.
      Sorry for the long post, but I was just trying to give the entire history in hopes someone might recognize the symptoms.
      Any help is appreciated.
      Last edited by 74CJ; 04-06-2008, 09:51 PM.

      Comment


      • #4
        I had somthing similar with my Ram. Was an intermittant short in the ignition coil. Maybe give it a check?

        Comment


        • #5
          Ok, if it runs fine with the dizzy as you describe, it has to be pointed at #1 with the piston close to TDC or it wouldn't run, period. That doesn't seem like the problem. If you'd posted when it wasn't running at all, we'd be on the right track with just a few simple tests. The backfiring when the engine catches is telling me it's not fuel. You're losing spark intermittently. The carb is still loading fuel into the cylinders while the spark is lost and when it comes back it's igniting in the exhaust. Since you've ruled out the closest problems to the dizzy (dizzy, coil, module, points, etc.), I think we're looking at a problem from the ignition switch (or the power to it) to the 12V+ you're putting into the HEI. This is where CJs frustrate people. You're, unfortunately, goint to have to trace wires from the battery to the ignition switch and out to the dizzy to make sure the connections are all good and the wires are in good condition.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by redtail View Post
            I had somthing similar with my Ram. Was an intermittant short in the ignition coil. Maybe give it a check?
            He's tried two ignition systems. The coil, IMO, has been ruled out.

            Comment


            • #7
              That is one reason I went back to the points distributor. I have a brand new coil on that. I also had a second one for the HEI that I put on that one before i switched it out. I doubt I would have 3 bad coils. But thanks for the suggestion.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by willness33 View Post
                He's tried two ignition systems. The coil, IMO, has been ruled out.
                You're right he ruled that out. I think you're on to it with the loss of ignition spark.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks I will check that out. Shouldn't be to hard. I installed a painless harness 3 years ago when I was building it. The ignition switch was new then too. I will definitely check it out. Thanks

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    A new harness should certainly make it easier to figure out. If you still can't get it to work right, take a simple wire from the + terminal of the battery to a switch inside the jeep and back to the HEI. If it runs well like that, you'll know for a fact the problem is in the harness or ignition switch. Actually, you really don't even need a switch. You can run it straight from the batt to the HEI just to do a simple test, but you'll have to disconnect the wire to shut the engine off.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      just a shot in the dark but did you by chance change to a different fuel filter or relocate it when you rebuilt your carb?...you say it runs good till its warm right?...im wondering if the fuel is boiling in the filter by chance...that would cause those same sorts of problems

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        A nice vapor lock crossed my mind as well. It's a valid question. However, anytime I've had vaporlock, I couldn't restart the damn thing until it was completely cooled off and when it died, it freakin died. No sputter then go again, just dead. If the op would run a hot wire to the HEI, we could easily have isolated the problem OR we can change our lines of thinking all together. I like these kinds of problems. Keeps the brain sharp.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by 74CJ View Post
                          That's just it, the rotor doesn't point to the no1 cylinder at TDC. It is about 3 or maybe 3:30.
                          After re-reading this whole thread, this made me laugh. The rotor button on the dizzy doesn't have to point directly at the #1 cylinder, but at the corresponding terminal on the cap for the #1 spark plug when #1 is at TDC (top dead center). LOL. I can see where the confusion came in.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I wasn't sure myself. I just put my spark plug wires on starting where the rotor pointed as my no1 cylinder and it worked out fine.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Captain, as far as the fuel filter, no not at that time I didn't. It was a see thru type, so I could see the fuel going through it. I thought of vapor lock too, so I clamped a clothes pin on the line just south of the filter. But if the fuel was boiling wouldn't I see it boiling in the filter? Also I took the top off the carb just to check the fuel level while having this problem and it was fine.
                              Last edited by 74CJ; 04-07-2008, 07:01 AM.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X