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  • Charcoal canister ??

    I have an 81 cj7 that I bought from a friend. He had taken all the emission stuff off and put a new intake manifold and headers on the engine. I finished the project by putting a Weber 38/38 carb in. But I have never known what to do with the signal port on the charcoal canister. Everything I have read says it's supposed to be ported to the CTO! But I no longer have that. I've been running it with that port plugged. Is this right or do I need to run a vacuum line somewhere to make the Charcoal canister work right?

    New to this board. Thanks for the help!

    Oh...it's an inline 6 258 (that I just finished a total rebuild!!!)

  • #2
    It is supposed to go to the CTO (more info here if needed: http://www.4wd.com/kyoung_4wdforums/...ead.php?t=2101)

    But the CTO just keeps it from functioning while the engine is cold, and does not do anything once the engine is warmed up. You can just plug it straight into a vacuum port and no biggie... 'might' act funny when the engine is cold, but i wouldn't worry about it. Heck you can have it hooked up to nothing at all and may never even notice any troubles, but there's the 'possibility' of rough running/stalling/unresponsive and maybe even fuel-lock or some such. I had mine disconnected for a year (with the carter and with weber) and i did not notice any difference, i only plugged it in cuz i could.

    If you're running the egr that might be more of a concern (but not by much)... but i take it you're not using it anyway.
    Last edited by 86cj_wally; 03-28-2005, 02:01 PM.

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    • #3
      The biggest thing the charcoal canister does is pick up gas vapors from the gas tank, so you don't continually get the smell of gasoline. They can cause a problem if they clog and they no longer draw a vacuum. On a TBI engine they will make it run rough and possibly not even idle when it is clogged.

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      • #4
        Ok...so you're saying that a clogged up canister can make a rebuilt engine stall and run rough? That would explain alot. Eversince I put the engine back in it won't idle right and stalls at lights etc. Kind of surges when it does idle. I just thought I had a vac. leak somewhere. Haven't had time to work on that. But maybe I should start with the canister. Can you clean those things out or is it better to get a new one?

        Also, can I run a vac line from the signal port to any vac source...say the PCV line?

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        • #5
          Originally posted by 81grrrjeep
          Ok...so you're saying that a clogged up canister can make a rebuilt engine stall and run rough? That would explain alot. Eversince I put the engine back in it won't idle right and stalls at lights etc. Kind of surges when it does idle. I just thought I had a vac. leak somewhere. Haven't had time to work on that. But maybe I should start with the canister. Can you clean those things out or is it better to get a new one?

          Also, can I run a vac line from the signal port to any vac source...say the PCV line?
          That probably won't work, a little scenario:
          Signal port receives enough vacuum to open up the vacuum port, vacuum port begins sucking, signal port no longer has enough vacuum for signal.. so signal closes, then vacuum port closes, now the signal has enough.... over and over etc.

          Try hooking it up to manifold vacuum somewhere, separate from the pcv/port.

          I'd say the stalling is due to something else.
          Make sure timing is sowewhere around 8btdc at idle, make sure idle speed screw is set at 1 turn out or less (may have to rejet to get that to work), make absolutely sure there are no vacuum leaks (if ya aren't using the CTO and it's still there make sure nothing is hooked up to it) (make sure the gasket surfaces of the carb adapter plates aren't leaking). Do a vacuum test on manifold vacuum, it should be plenty at idle. Do a compression test (just to make sure). Check the condition of the spark plugs (for rich/lean mixtures). Make sure the float in the carb isn't way off. I'm sure i missed a few things.

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