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  • Carter carb problems

    258 I6 factory Carter 2bbl...in the morning when i start i step on the foot feed once to set the choke it idles nice and fast real fast then when i step on the foot feed to release that choke to slow it down it idles down and dies then i restart it and it dies again so i restart it and keep my foot on the gas and drive away...but EVERYTIME i slow down to stop it dies and i have to restart it...doesn't matter if it is cold or hot...EVERYTIME i take my foot off the gas it dies, so if i sit at a light i have to play with the gas to keep it running...the idle is set pretty high already and the 2 fuel/air mixture screws seems to be set ok...please help...

  • #2
    Carter

    I just put a new one on my CJ (w/ 25 and it does alot better ,but if I had it to do over, I'd look into other brands even though some slight mods may be required.

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    • #3
      carb

      I had an 85cj with the same problem. Somthing to do with the jets and the steper motor on the back of the carb. I went to the local parts house an picked up a carb for an older cj, a real simple one. the only mod was for the linkage, was real simple.
      I also ran my ignition wires stright from the modual to distributer bypassing the computer. Ran real sweet.

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      • #4
        Like mine exactly..a rebuild by a pro did the job.

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        • #5
          Mine too, I yanked all that crap and went FI but a good carb guy can fix it for now anyway. DP

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          • #6
            The EXACT same thing happened to me when I bought my 80 CJ5 last year. I spent 300 buck to have it rebuilt, 49 weeks later the Carter was up to its old tricks again. I bought a weber 32/36 and it runs great. I wish I just went with the new carb off the bat, now a $400 carb essentially cost me $700...
            TD

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            • #7
              Throw the carter carb away!

              Or become an expert at 80's emissions, vacuum hoses, silly engine controls, and vacuum leaks.

              Only 2 choices you really have... 3rd choice being spend LOTS of money for a pro to do it, if ya can find one willing.

              I'd say try to stick an mc2100 on there (weber is currently on strike so good luck finding a weber new). Should be able to do it for well under $200.

              Good luck.

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              • #8
                mc2100...

                i am looking into a new carb...if i get a mc2100 will that eliminate all the emissions hoses and lines that run all over? it is a strictly manual carb not computer right? or do i need to do some kind of computer bypass (nutter?) i live in colorado so i need it to pass emissions testing. it passed last april on the second try after i got it really hot (i guess it failed hydrocarbons the first time). all of the webers, etc that i read about say that it won't pass.

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                • #9
                  Legally, it's not legal.

                  Real life... it will pass if ya get it tuned well and have a good cat-converter. And as you noticed having the correct carter carb requires that too, but very difficult to mess with. If your state has in depth inspections, like maybe a thorough visual check they'll probably fail ya... but i've passed the sniffer twice with my Weber. And that required less effort than passing with the carter.

                  Will need to do the nutter if ya stick a non-computer carb in there.

                  Yes it gets rid of 90% of the vacuum lines, wires, and assorted junk.

                  What mine looks like:
                  http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...es33005021.jpg

                  The loose wires are new and temporarily, just trying some stuff out, and have nothing to do with the carb.

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                  • #10
                    I had the same problem. I went with a rebuild and it got me another 6 months then it started again...then i went mc2100 with HEI ignition and never looked back. all in all it probably cost me about $300 for everything for both conversions. WELL worth it.

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                    • #11
                      Webers and MC2100 carb swaps are great alternatives, and i am probably heading in the MC2100 direction soon enough. but, until then, there is a well-known fix that may work for your Carter.

                      Personally, I have a YJ wrangler with that famous Carter carb and the 258 I6, but I look in this forum occasionally because of questions related to the MC2100 swap, and the 258 I6 with the carter carb. Here is a link or two to address your idle woes with the carter carb.

                      consider this carb fix:

                      http://www.jeeptech.com/engine/carter.html

                      with these pictures:

                      http://www.yellowjeep.org/Carb.html

                      and consider drilling out the venturi idle tubes to 0.040" with a #60 drill bit (by hand) instead of the 0.032" mentioned in the article. much better at 0.040".

                      if this works, then reset your idle via this method:

                      http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/solvac.htm#setting

                      found at this site (which may apply to your vehicle, and if so, is VERY handy)

                      http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/list.htm (this link should apply to your engine, etc.)

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                      • #12
                        Thanks for the websites amg61! I found the carb fix one already but the other one has tons of info!

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                        • #13
                          The venturies clog and prevent proper fuel drip and air passage at idle. One trick is to drill out the venturi passages.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by tony
                            The venturies clog and prevent proper fuel drip and air passage at idle. One trick is to drill out the venturi passages.
                            that's EXACTLY what my links talk about in my post above; drilling out those idle tubes.

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