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  • Help!!

    Alright all, i've been battling a chevy wiring problem and cant seem to uncover the issue. I have a 95 chevy pickup and my brake lights keep failing. I step on the pedal and it blows the fuse. I have searched every inch of the harness and cant find a break , disconnected the light assemblies, bypasses the trailor wiring, disconnected the cruise control and bypassed the stop switch and it still blows the fuse!! Any suggestions would be great...
    I know I should post this in the off topic section but Im a CJ guy and everyone in this forum has been quite helpful.

  • #2
    This is gonna be a tough one I think...sounds like you have a short in the system. Probably a wire cracked or pinched in the body/frame somewhere. I'd start with any of the connectors in the harness, especially at the rear of the bed.

    Is this truck one you bought new, or did you get it used? If it was used, theres a possibility some PO did a hack job trying to patch in some trailer lights or such. If not, then I'd still check because of the normal corrosion and gunk build up.

    An old timer I knew would replace the old glass barrel fuses with a chunk of copper tube, then wait for the short to start smoking. Freaky way to do it, but it (usually) worked!
    (The above information is provided purely for entertainment purposes only, and is NOT to be construed as advise of any kind for the above course of action. In other words...Kids, don't try this at home! The above was performed by barely house-trained drunks in a backyard garage at their own peril.)

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    • #3
      done all that !

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      • #4
        I had this issue with a Commanche and a buddy with an S-10 had a similar issue. Mine would only blow when my headlights were on and the brake lights. So for a while, I didn't drive at night. Chevy wired their trucks in bundles section by section. Each section plugs into the next. It's a nice system.

        I would start with disconnecting the harness comming off the drivers frame rail (I'm pretty sure the main harness is on the drivers side that year) to the tail lights. This should be located between the bumper and the rear tire. Wire a test light and test the lights. It seems that this is the section that causes all the issues. If the fuse does not pop, you know where the issue is. You can spend the next four days tracing the wires, or purchase a new bundle for around $80. If you have a trailer pigtail, get one that plugs in between the factory harnesses. Don't splice. You can get one at a junk yard, NAPA, trailer shop, or even a uhaul dealer.

        Good luck, I hope this helps.

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        • #5
          this may sound too simple or nuts. I used to work at a chevy dealership. Those models tend to be bad about the sockets for the taillights going bad and having a short in them. You can typically find off brand replacements at the auto parts store or go to the dealer (but the dealer tends to be $$$). If you have a junk yard or a friend who has a similar model, I might try to swap some and see if that fixes it.

          Sometimes you can tell if they are bad by pulling the bulbs out of the tailight panel and look to see if there is discoloration like it got too hot. If one is black in the socket that is a dead give away. Even if you don't see these symptoms, it can still be bad.

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