Announcement Announcement Module
Collapse
No announcement yet.
simple, but I'm stuck Page Title Module
Move Remove Collapse
X
Conversation Detail Module
Collapse
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • simple, but I'm stuck

    with getting it to turn over.
    Brief overview, all new wiring harnes (by me) and full custom design dash.
    Problem is with starting the engine. I have the 258 with the starter solonoid on the fender wall. One big lug on the solonoid to the starter and the other big lug to the battery. On the battery lug a wire to the alternator & the dizzy. This is all stock connections. The small solonoid terminals have the red wire to the "start" position on the ignition key. I do get 12V to this terminal in start mode. Hit the key and nothing happens. The other small terminal has a blue wire that has no place to go. The new ignition system is basic, no more computor, no million vacumn lines, so I though put 12V to the solonoid and the starter shoud kick in. What I need to know is this damm blue wire, does it need to hooked up for the solonoid the flip and power the starter. After I find a place for the blue wire I can try jumpering the solonoid, whick I THINK is by jumpering the small red terminal to the batt terminal, correct me if I'm wrong on that.

    BLUE WIRE .................????????????

  • #2
    scobar, my memory seems to be quite shot these days but I seem to remember the extra post on the solenoid is for automatic trannys for some reason. Are you sure your solenoid is grounded? You got a lot of new paint on her. Shoot John a PM and ask him about this.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by blackwater View Post
      scobar, my memory seems to be quite shot these days but I seem to remember the extra post on the solenoid is for automatic trannys for some reason. Are you sure your solenoid is grounded?.
      I'll check the ground, maybe the extra lug on the solonid isn't needed. I think the solonois is just a relay, power up the small terminal and power passes through directly from the bat to the starter.

      Comment


      • #4
        Blue wire should go to your "start" post on your sol, the red is to supply 12V to your coil while it is starting...if I remember right

        Comment


        • #5
          Yep, Blue wire should be the start. The red wire supplies power to the coil and would look like it has power in the start position but it should go to another post on the starter solenoid. i would suggest getting a new solenoid with the proper terminals. Also check your grounds. The solenoid should ground to the fender but sometimes the fender isn't grounded due to old rust or new paint. There were some solenoide with 3 terminals used with automatics were the mount is not ground. Easy to identify by the third small terminal.

          Comment


          • #6
            this is what I will try tonight:

            small red solonoid post to HEI (12v) when key is in on position
            small blue solonoid post to 12V when key is in start position.
            Solid grounds

            New solonoid tomorrow if that don't work

            Comment


            • #7
              http://my.execpc.com/~gwilli/070807_files/July8_260.jpg
              Heres a pic of mine. Mounted on a glass fender. Wouldnt work until I ran a ground wire to the mounting bolt. Good Luck. Oh ya, 86 CJ7 with a 258.

              Comment


              • #8
                BLUE wire to "Start" and it worked.

                Redtail, your not using the other small lug on the solonoid, I am assuming it's really not needed then. I have it (your missing small lug) hooked to the "on" position through the ignition switch and then over to my dizzy to get 12v there. How did you power your distributor?

                Comment


                • #9
                  Got a DUI ignition, cant remember where its hooked up to. Worked 12 hour shifts the last four nights. Fried brain. Ill take a look when I get up tonight. Glad she worked for ya.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    redtail, don't worry about it, I'm running, thanks

                    W'ell not totaling running. The start solonoid click so I though it was just a bad conncetion. Actually it is not running and I'm still stumped on why not. I load tested the battery, new solonoid & stater, just a fast clicking when I hit the key. Here is a crude diagram of how it is wired........can't "manage attachements" to show the diagram, will add to next post
                    Last edited by scobar; 05-15-2010, 11:13 AM. Reason: adding more info

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      The hei should get power from the ignition switch, old coil wire, not the solinoid, and you should use that lead to drive a relay supplying 12V with I think 12 or 10 gauge wire. The wire that orignally went to the coil from the ignition switch is a restive lead and will not provide 12V or the current that a hei requires.

                      Clicking, bad ground, bad connection, bad cable(had 1 with barly any wire in the crimp), weak battery, bad solinoid, bad starter. You can check the wires and components for heat to see if anything is shorting. Be careful as the stuff gets real hot real fast to cause clicking

                      BTW the Igniton lead from the solinoid only has power on it when operated.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Play400 View Post
                        The hei should get power from the ignition switch, old coil wire, not the solinoid, and you should use that lead to drive a relay supplying 12V with I think 12 or 10 gauge wire. The wire that orignally went to the coil from the ignition switch is a restive lead and will not provide 12V or the current that a hei requires.

                        Clicking, bad ground, bad connection, bad cable(had 1 with barly any wire in the crimp), weak battery, bad solinoid, bad starter. You can check the wires and components for heat to see if anything is shorting. Be careful as the stuff gets real hot real fast to cause clicking

                        BTW the Igniton lead from the solinoid only has power on it when operated.
                        I don't have a relay to the HEI and only a 14G wire from the ingnition sw "on" to the HEI. I going to be lazy for a few and watch to see if the 14G gets warm at all, then I'll make the relay change.

                        My original problem (kicked my self a few times here) with the clicking was the battery. I checked it (battery) with my digital meter 12.4V, then with my digital load tester 11.9V so I said all good. After HOURS and I mean hours of WTF, I jumped it with my truck and bamm it turns over, go figure my load tested is toast, and the thing was not cheap!

                        Comment

                        Working...
                        X