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  • T5 rebuild

    Okay, I think I've changed plans for a while at least. I'm going to rebuild the T5 myself. Or at least I'm going to try. Anyone done this before? Any pointers or advice would be greatly appreciated. It doesn't seem that hard, but nothing does until you have oil up to your elbows . . .

    Also, any place with good quality and pricing on tranny rebuild kits?

  • #2
    i rebuilt my old T-5 3 or 4 times back in the 90's, even replaced it with a brand new one once, and removed it about 8 times all total before i swapped it out. i have a plethora of basically new parts if you need some (everything but the input shaft and cluster gear)
    its good to have both the haynes and chiltons manuals whenever a time consuming job like this comes about. a few different angles and stuff in there. my chiltons manual is the dirtiest by far though.
    follow the instuctions carefully and lay your parts out in a line on your bench. place the new parts below the old parts and put it all back together. be sure to index the front bearing retainer correctly during installation (not that i did that 13 years ago and spent three hours trying to wrestle my tranny into place) set the input shaft endplay precisely. this is very important, trust me
    with any gear work be very clean and methodical, try to stay the course, tear it down and put it back together all at once if you can. i liked to remove the tranny from the bellhousing with the skidplate, transfer case and all still attached. remove the shifters, driveshafts, electrical connectors, and tranny to bellhousing bolts, ect (jack the rear end up so you can sit under it and work)
    i used to lay down under in and bench press it, slide it over and set it down on a cushion on my stomach and chest, then wiggle my way out (requires a smooth floor) to re-install it i would leave off the skidplate with the mount still on the tranny, slide myself in position on my side with the transmission/trans case propped up at my chest, roll into position, bench press it into position and turn rear output shaft of the transfer case to line up the input shaft splines. its quick and painful but it beats splitting it all up under the jeep (a short transmission jack would be ideal but they cost $$$)
    its really an easy manual tranny to work on with one exception. if you drop a needle bearing in the case when you go to install the input shaft to the mainshaft you will have to take the cluster gear free again to get it out.
    thought i'd warn you


    • #3
      You work way to hard.
      I use a 2x4 cut to the length of space+ a little bit between the rear output shaft and the ground. I wedge it in there after I remove the nuts holding teh tranny to skidplate.
      Pull skidplate, put a rolling jack under tranny, pull 2x4, pull all shifters, drain tranny. Remove driveshafts, pull transfer. Remove tranny, I bench press it in and out, and when it comes down on my chest I slide it off onto a creeper and then I roll it out. I can do a tranny swap in 3 hours. I also just pull the tranny(no bell housing), it is way easier. You might want to lower the tranny a little when you go to remove stuff off of it. It also helps to have it a bit lower than normal to remove it. Turn it a slight bit to release it if it gets hung pulling it out.


      • #4
        The T5 was the easiest of all the trannys that I have rebuilt. You can source an entire rebuild kit through 4wd.

        Another thing that I have found helpful over the years is the parts blowup in the 4wd catalogs. Since I seem to have about 1000 catalogs, I usually take the entire page out of the catalog and keep it beside me.



        • #5
          Thanks for all the info guys! I have done a t5 tranny swap a couple of times, but always to a different t5, or just a new clutch, etc. I bought a couple of Autozone clutch specials and found out fast why they are lifetime guarateed! Anyway. Is the input shaft the week point of the tranny? It seems that it is always a wobble that kills the tranny for me. It just wallows out the pilot bushing then allows more wobble to occur. I won't know for sure about the damage, but if it's sloppy, will a new bearing fix it, or does it need a new input shaft, usually?