Announcement Announcement Module
Collapse
No announcement yet.
HEI Timing woes Page Title Module
Move Remove Collapse
X
Conversation Detail Module
Collapse
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    Great to hear!! That never even crossed my mind, but yeah, my choke plate has to be completely closed when starting cold.

    Blackwater, thanks for the link! I went to NAPA and they couldn't find one of those. Not sure what I did with the one from the 350 sbc I had in the Jeep. Probably still on the '80 wire harness.


    EDIT: Those HEI dizzy pigtails are pricey... $22 for two (including shipping.)..........but hey, they're racing parts, my CJ will go faster now!
    Last edited by Hill, Bill E; 03-27-2008, 05:06 PM.

    Comment


    • #17
      Tonight I'm going to inspect the float levels, since I've had nothing but problems with my weber, I think I'll give this a shot. I've done some research on some previous threads and got a lot of good info on it. I've got to start from scratch with adjusting the carb and got some good info on that too, this forum has some good info. I need to also check the vents on my float and figure out something with those. Previous starts with the CJ, I'd have to crank and crank and crank some more before it'd fire up, so I'm thinking the fuel in the bowl is evaporation over night...got an exciting night planned..Wish me luck, thanks again all....

      Comment


      • #18
        The easiest way I know of to find TDC is to remove the plug from # 1 cylinder, stick a piece of wire (like bailing wire) in it, crank it over by hand. When the wire is sticking out of the cylinder the farthest, you're at TDC. Marking the wire with a magic marker provides a reference point.

        Comment


        • #19
          Originally posted by JCS82CJ View Post
          The easiest way I know of to find TDC is to remove the plug from # 1 cylinder, stick a piece of wire (like bailing wire) in it, crank it over by hand. When the wire is sticking out of the cylinder the farthest, you're at TDC. Marking the wire with a magic marker provides a reference point.
          Originally posted by willness33 View Post
          Badfish, have someone turn the engine over in it's normal rotation by using a ratchet on the crank pulley bolt. Have the #1 plug out and stick your finger over the hole. You will feel the pressure build in the cylinder as the piston is coming up on the compression stroke. Have your friend stop at this point. Take a long screwdriver with electrical tape wrapped around it and on the point (as not to damage piston) and stick it in the cylinder. Have your partner continue turning the crank. The screwdriver will start to move up. At the screwdriver's highest point, the #1 piston is at TDC.
          .....

          Comment


          • #20
            MY 258 HUMS NOW...LAST NIGHT I SET THE CARB, BENT THE FLOATS (THEY HAVE NEVER BEEN ADJUSTED, AND LOOKED LIKE THEY WHERE WAY TOO FAR DOWN) MIGHT EXPLAIN MY CONSTANT TROUBLES WITH THIS WEBER CARB. ANYWAYS BENT THE FLOATS UPWARD (LOST THE c-CLIP lol THAT LITTLE S@#T IS SMALL). i SET THE MIXTURE, AND IDLE SETTINGS AND IT FIRED RIGHT UP AND RAN LIKE A DREAM...STILL SPUTTERS EVERY 30 SECONDS OR SO, BUT THATS PRETTY NORMAL, AND IT'S NOT TO BAD.

            I RAN THE ENGINE UP FOR AROUND 5 MINUTES AND NOTICED AN OIL LEAK (REAR OF VALVE COVER), TIGHTENED THAT UP AND ALSO NOTICED THAT THE TEMP WAS RISING VERY FAST....VERY....VERY...FAST....IT WAS OVERHEATING....IT HAS A NEW THERMOSTAT...NEW COOLANT...NEW COOLANT TEMP SENDER...THE WATER PUMP IS ONLY A YEAR OLD AND HASN'T BEEN TOUCHED SINCE INSTALLATION A YEAR AGO...i'M TRYING TO THINK IF I COULD HAVE PUT THE THERMOSTAT IN BACKWARDS AND WOULD THAT CAUSE IT NOT TO OPEN?? IS IT EVEN POSSIBLE TO PUT IT IN BACKWARDS? WHICH WAY DOES THE THE THING GO IN THERE...i PUT IT IN WITH THE HEATING ELEMENT INTO THE HEAD AND THE TAPPERED LOOKING CONE SHAPE FACING TOWARD THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE, I THOUGHT THIS WAS RIGHT...AM I WRONG?? ANY IDEAS ON THE OVERHEADING...EVERYTHING SHOULD BE FINE..RADIATOR, HOSES, THERMOSTAT, WATER PUMP ARE ALL NEW..

            Comment


            • #21
              those pesky danged details...

              Alaskan, congrats on bringing her back to life. (I knew this post was coming anyday now.) Good thing you didn't go back in the house to let her warm for awhile. It sounds like you might need to 'burp' her. You gotta run it with the cap off until the tsat opens and allows the pump to chase the air out of captivity. (be careful while you're doing this...)

              On the tstat...I can't remember which way the danged thing goes in. I SUCK with this memory stuff lately...The 'sensor' portion of the tsat needs to sit in the engine side of the hole but I can't remember if that leaves the spring side up or down. Someone will pop in with this.

              Comment


              • #22
                Sounds like the thermostat is in right. Did you leave the radiator cap off as it warmed up? This will vent out all the air on the first fire up after refilling the cooling system. You could have some air pockets in the cooling system if you didnt leave the cap off until it was hot. GREAT TO HEAR ITS RUNNING.

                Comment


                • #23
                  Morgan, ya beat me by one minute. LOL

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    I Left The Cap Off Until It Came Up And Startted Getting My Garage Floor Green...it Started Overflowing Out Of The Cap Hole..i Took The Sensor Off The Rear Of The Head To Vent There Too And It Started Spewing Out Of That As Well.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      the usual suspects...

                      Originally posted by redtail View Post
                      Morgan, ya beat me by one minute. LOL
                      Well, that doesn