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  • #16
    Originally posted by joshs1ofakindxj
    so my only question unanswered is the front brake line one. can u relocate the brackets or something for extended length? just something i thought i heard...
    I allready answered that with

    Originally posted by rstarch345
    Missed this one. Yes you can, but you run the risk of getting them closer to harms way. If you really study the axles movement and the turn of the wheels, you may be able to fab a bracket on the inside of the wheel well then arch under to the backside of the shocks.
    If you missed it, OK else if I didn't make any sense, I'll explain it differently.

    Comment


    • #17
      Brake Lines

      I read somewhere how to relocate the brackets for the brake lines. It involved a new bracket, un-bending a Z bend in the stock hard line, and bolting it back together. I think I am just going to go get longer brake lines. I just need to figure out how much longer I need to buy. My common sense tells me they would be three inches longer for a three inch lift. But that is my common sense talking. I will not go into detail about my common sense, other than it can only be trusted so far.

      That is what I think,

      Comment


      • #18
        ok, so im goin with Rusty's 3" heavy duty coils, heavy duty coil retaining clips, 3 degree shims with center bolts, and front and rear brake line extension brackets. ill hit napa up for the shocks, u bolts, and anything else i need for the leafs packs. im going to make hockey puck front bump stops, extended axle breather lines and extended front axle vacuum lines. my rear bump stops have rotted away so im going to get new stock ones (4") and they should be good for height. im gunna go with Cragar 397 series wheels from Summit. they have a 5" backspacing. anyone see any problems with anything?

        the last thing left to figure out is the rear leaf packs.

        i got these donors to my bastard leaf pack set-up off of a 83 or 84 chevy 4x4rear end...

        http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y96...ep32/leafs.jpg

        im pretty clueless about what leafs to add to my current packs or take out. the top leafs on the chevy packs were cut at the ends so to use them i would have to cut them more exactly and they would end up being about the same as the next leaf down in the pack. my xj's packs are sagging really bad and my air shocks are holding them up about 1.5"-2". i need 3" heavy duty packs when its all said and done. so anybody got any ideas as to what i should do? what about the clips that keep the leafs from turning and the platic things that go inbetween the ends of the leafs. how many of them do i need and where? thanks for any help.

        Comment


        • #19
          Since your donor leafs don't have eyes, you,ll have to use the main from your existing XJ pack. You'll want to use the main from the donor. Make sure the donors are shorter than the stock. What I mean there is the end of the donor leaf should be behind the eye on each end by about 1/2" to 1". On the inside of the donor leaf, grind a taper on on the inside edge of both sides. On full compression, this reduces end friction. Taking the rest of the donor pack, select the next in length that matches your stock all the way to the bottom. In the end, you will only want one more leaf than what you had as stock.

          If you have a spring shop in your area, that would be the best place to get the spring clamps and the plastic inserts. If you don't have any place, you may need to check with some of the wheelin' suppliers or performance outfits.

          Comment


          • #20
            Saggin

            My rear leafs are sagging also. I was thinking of an AAL, but I figured if the metal was fatigued and worn, it may not last. That is why I went with new springs at all four corners. I thought 4WD had fair prices. The Skyjacker springs I got already have degree shims on them. It looks like they should bolt right on. Good luck on your endeavor.

            My $.02

            Comment


            • #21
              Saggin

              My rear leafs are sagging also. I was thinking of an AAL, but I figured if the metal was fatigued and worn, it may not last. That is why I went with new springs at all four corners. I thought 4WD had fair prices. The Skyjacker springs I got already have degree shims on them. It looks like they should bolt right on. Good luck on your endeavor.

              My $.02

              Comment


              • #22
                i was thinking about the anti-friction paint instead of the plastic things and what about not using the bottem short leaf since i dont tow?


                i have 1.75" lift shackles on now too. should i take them off and run with an all AAL set up or should i go with both?
                Last edited by joshs1ofakindxj; 02-23-2006, 04:17 PM.

                Comment


                • #23
                  You need the bottom leaf. That's not just for towing. That helps reduce the axle wrap and at full flex it keeps the springs from looking like a W.

                  You really don't need the plastic. It's sole purpose is to reduce wear and noise. The paint might work, do whatever. Back in the '70's we just kept the springs oiled or forced grease in between if they made too much noise.

                  My guess is, you'll want to keep the shackle. One, it improves drive line angle, 2nd, your springs probably aren't going to give you the lift you expect. They tend to settle after awhile. Same problem I had, which is why I left my shackles on even though my springs were new. If you're not sure, leave it off, you can always put it back on later.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    the anti-friction paint i was talking about is called molykoat. the stuff i got is dow corning 321 dry film lubricant spray - http://www.neelyindustries.com/pdf/321.pdf - ill tell ya'll how it works out.

                    this might seem like a sily question, but the clamp im going to use is the 1 off the chevy pack that is bolted to one of the lower leafs and holds the others down with a bolt. should it go in front or behind the axle? thats the only clamp im planning on running.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by joshs1ofakindxj
                      thats the only clamp im planning on running.
                      You need 2 clamps and that's all I'm going to say.

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        what do they do besides limit side to side motion? the chevy packs originally only ran one clamp...

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Here is a list of about 50 different leaf springs, Chevy, Ford, Chrysler, Nissian, Honda, Trucks, SUV's. I didn't find one that had less than two clamps.
                          http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...h.asp&x=20&y=6

                          You got take offs that even had the eyes cut off. What if the other clamp had been cut off as well. Going to run them without clamps?

                          You mentioned that you want to go to college for engineering? Here's your chance to prep for it.

                          Why are they called leaf packs?

                          Why is it importantant to keep pack integrity?

                          Why are they called hellical leaf springs?

                          How much lateral force do the springs experience when in turns?

                          Sorry to get in your case, but you just can't blindly jump into something without considering 'cause and effect'.

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            i pulled the packs myself so i assumed they were in the stock form with only one clamp. i guess not.

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Now to carry spring clamps a little further. Here is a site that explains the functioning of leaf springs and the true name of the spring clamps (rebound clips). http://www.tpub.com/basae/205.htm

                              To back off and contradict myself, I'll offer this. Yes, the leaf spring can be used without the spring clamps or even with one installed, IF you are not using your rig as a DD. As a DD you are getting into safety and performance issues and I'll emphatically say you NEED 2 clamps.

                              As a trail ONLY rig, not having clamps on the spring can improve the rear articulation. The springs essentially fan out allowing the axle to drop more. But, this is not without issues.

                              IF you are going to use only one clamp then clamp the front of the springbecause the front of the spring has more of a control arm function. If it wraps, you will get wheel hop. Clamping it reinforces the main leaf and also keeps the leaves from pivoting around the centering bolt.

                              If you are wheelin' in a dry climate with little mud, one or no clamps aren't too much of a problem. You just have to stop every once in awhile and knock the leaves back in position.

                              Running with no or one clamp in a mud environment can cause mud to pack in the leaves, (remember, they will open up like a fan) allow branches to get caught in between causing excessive wear and even brakage and cause the springs to flay even more.

                              If you are running one clamp and something jams into a leaf causing the front clamp to slip or break, the spring can rotate into the tire.

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                ok, ya sold me, ill put 2 on each pack.

                                i did call the cambria pa spring works earlier today and they said 1 is enough. the time/cost factor of it doesnt make it worth thnking about anymore. like nike says, just do it.

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