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  • Where is my Oil Leak coming from?

    258...it is dripping from where the bellhousing meets the engine i think. the starter, front drive shaft, back part of the front spring hanger all get sprayed and have oil dripping from them. any ideas? rear engine seal? i just changed the clutch and the engine seal was not leaking then. maybe the oil pan?

  • #2
    Sounds like the rear main, check this link for other ideas ...

    http://www.4wd.com/kyoung_4wdforums/...ead.php?t=3440

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    • #3
      that's not a leak, it's a feature. it's called the AMC self-reapplying rust inhibitor. see, AMC knew these would eventually get wheeled and muddy and then rust. so to help prevent frame rust, they made it so it would spray some oil on it automatically. just keep adding oil to the engine fill and the self-reapplying rust inhibitor function will automatically take the extra oil from the crankcase.





      then look at the back of the valve cover, head gasket and as mentioned, RMS.

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      • #4
        I don't buy RMS with oil on the starter and Front Drive shaft.....check the oil sender, the fuel pump, distributor, but I bet the rascal is the valve cover gasket right behind the block like FUBAR before me said..a favorite place for leaks. You have oil on the front spring hangar..oil pan probably not. Oil would tend to go back from RMS and pan. The bellhousing is a natural low point for all oil leaks so that is not really a tell tail sign. I went through a 2 week process that sounds exactly what you are seeing and it was the VC; it had slipped a little and was leaking by the firewall. It was some cheesy aftermarket cover...if you have the plastic one, heat can warp those and leakola big time. Have fun and let us know please.

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        • #5
          Also if you have those cheap plastic covers do not use rtv. It will make the gasket slip all over the place, use a sticky tacky gasket adhesive instead. It might be a mess to clean up but at least it doesn't leak.
          And If you use RTV on the aluminium ones make sure you let it dry(I like to wait overnight) before you tighten the bolts down or the gasket will slip.

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          • #6
            i'll be changing the VC gasket tomorrow along with the oil pan gasket so we'll see

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            • #7
              when you take the oil pan off you're over half way to the RMS and they only cost a couple dollars at most.

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              • #8
                so does my chilton, haynes book tell me how to do the RMS cuz i hve never done one before. also should i get a cork or neoprene rubber something or other VC gasket (i have the 4wd aluminum cover)

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                • #9
                  Let me know how it works out. I have the same problem and getting tired of the smell. Can't do anything about it yet. (still workin on the garage) Thanks, Scott

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                  • #10
                    to replace the RMS, you just have to take the rear crank cap off. the RMS is two pieces. the bottom piece is in the cap, the upper piece is over the top part of the crank. you should be able to take a tooth pick and push on one side of the upper to get it started sliding out. having a friend to turn the crank may help or even loosening the other main caps a little. lube the new one, slip the halves in, tighten it all back up to torque. it's very easy to do. if you get to scared, i'll send you some depends.

                    both chilton and haynes should show this.

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                    • #11
                      depends? sweet...thanks Fubar

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by beastiebrad
                        so does my chilton, haynes book tell me how to do the RMS cuz i hve never done one before. also should i get a cork or neoprene rubber something or other VC gasket (i have the 4wd aluminum cover)
                        I've had the 4WD aluminum valve cover now for a few thousand miles without leak AND i've taken it off once or twice in the mean time, reusing the same gasket. The gasket that VC comes with is extra thick and you can't use the standard gasket; you have to buy replacements from 4WD. I've had no leaks using NO RTV whatsoever.
                        Last edited by rmy; 05-01-2005, 01:10 PM.

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                        • #13
                          seems the new VC solved my problem...thanks

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                          • #14
                            I know this old but, In my case I thought it was the oil pan gasket (not!)
                            Rear main seal (not!), but it was the rear section of the valve cover. I got a new cork gasket, gasket cinch and then RTV silicone. Lightly screw in bolts, let silicone set about 10 min. then tighten bolts.

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                            • #15
                              Could it be the harmonic balence seal? Mine had that problem Oil EVERYWHERE

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