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  • Tubs- revisited...

    So, from what I read on the previous thread, tub options are as follows:
    1. Fiberglass-2200(kit)
    2. Deluxe Fiberglass-2350(kit)
    3. Aluminum- 2700(tub only)
    All would, of course require paint. Glass would require the 4 or 6 pt tie-in kit and the electrical system know-how to ground everything.
    Do the aluminum tubs have anything like a template for cutting holes,or do you just guess since that whole thing is flat everywhere and stock is all rounded?
    Can the fiberglass windshield handle those doohickeys that hold up the front of a Supertop?
    By the time it's alldone, how large a price tag is involved? (Include 173 trips to the hardware store)
    Obviously, I know little about a project of this magnitude. Looking for good advice from the wise sages of the jeep world.

  • #2
    I wasn't smart enough at the time to keep my old tub as a temlpate for the holes in the new aluminum one. I took the old tub to the scrap heep while I was waiting for the new one. I had a buddy with a cj so I had to make a few trips to his house. As far as fit with the rounded vs straight curves..... I'm VERY happy with the fit, there is hardly anything that doesn't fit. If you want, I can get some detail photos to you...just let me know what areas are of concern to you.

    ragg

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    • #3
      I would go with a steel replacement windshield... they might rust in the long run, but I heard the fiberglass ones kinda suck & flex too much.

      As far as the wiring goes.. it's not some rediculously hard deal.. we used a grounding bar that you would get at your local electrical supply house that is used in a new electrical panel.. we installed that near the fuse block & ran a main ground to the frame, it is all fine.

      If it makes you feel any better, my husband and I *by ourselves* did the entire fiberglass body swap in our old little garage with no air tools or torches.. and (at that time) we didn't know anyone that had done a fiberglass tub swap, and the info on the internet was very limited since it was over 5 years ago... and we didnt have any help from anyone as we barely knew anyone that was into jeeps (boy times have changed)

      I guess the bottom line is YOU CAN DO IT.

      -Mel

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      • #4
        I did the fiberglass swap about 8 years ago. It wasn't too difficult at all. I would strongly suggest keeping the old tub around until the project is done for template purposes.

        I did/am using a steel windshield frame. Not too sure how the mounting brakets/rails would hold up under the tension to a tight top on the fiberglass.

        As far as electrical on the fiberglass tub. You just need to ensure you have a good ground run and that everything is grounded to the frame. Don't rely on the steel dash panel or just the ground off of the battery. That's my take on it.

        Oh yeah, back when i did the swap through 4WD, I dont remember them having the deluxe body. So mine is probably the regular one they have now. I have had no problems with it at all.

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        • #5
          i have glass. i would recommend keeping everything until you're done. i put in a stainless dash, grounded the dash to the frame and everything there is fine. you'll need to ground your turn signal housings, head light housings, solenoid and i think that's it. if you're doing the swap, i would recommend putting in a new wiring kit. i used painless and it was truely painless. i had never done anything like this before and it took me several months of working on it when i had time. i found that as i went along, i kept upgrading or replacing more stuff like brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and what ever, since the tub was off and it was the best time to do it. now i have a jeep that will last a heck of a long time.

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          • #6
            If you are worried about cost and your old harness is good, I would do like Mel and Rick did. I am working on a guys jeep with a fiberglass swap done and we are doing just like they did. The PO ran a gounding bar. We are going to finish off from that.
            The glass windsheild does hold those supertop thingys. I have them with mine. In fact I modded them to work with my hardtop. But like Mel says they flex, a lot. If you are going to be going off road a lot and you don't want wet feet, stay with steel.

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            • #7
              the big thing to keep is the steel plate that the brakes/steering column abd vin plate and wiring harness goes through; bolt it on to the body to help line all that up with
              http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...1/IMG_0563.jpg

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              • #8
                FUBAR you know I'd have to chime in here!! I say go get yourself a nice clean YJ body they are much cheaper like 200.00-600.00. The steel is 10x more durable than glass and it just looks right. I had a glass Jeep and I just didn't like it off-road I always felt lik I was going to bump something and crack it. I say go get a 1991-1995 YJ tub then por-15 the underneath of it and Rhinoline the inside and you will still have a ton of money left over. Another bonus is you get the family style rollbar if you have any family or friends that wheel with you.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by pghjeeper
                  FUBAR you know I'd have to chime in here!! I say go get yourself a nice clean YJ body they are much cheaper like 200.00-600.00. The steel is 10x more durable than glass and it just looks right. I had a glass Jeep and I just didn't like it off-road I always felt lik I was going to bump something and crack it. I say go get a 1991-1995 YJ tub then por-15 the underneath of it and Rhinoline the inside and you will still have a ton of money left over. Another bonus is you get the family style rollbar if you have any family or friends that wheel with you.
                  I did the yj tub swap and Im a big fan of it. I also like the yj tail gate alot more as well.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by thedirt
                    I also like the yj tail gate alot more as well.
                    No way, the CJ tailgate is the way to go, thats why a lot of YJ guys use em.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by thejeepingoat
                      No way, the CJ tailgate is the way to go, thats why a lot of YJ guys use em.
                      Damn, I guess were not allowed to have opinions here. I like the latching mechanism on the yj alot more too,

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by thedirt
                        Damn, I guess were not allowed to have opinions here. I like the latching mechanism on the yj alot more too,
                        yah you are allowed, and that was mine, dont take it to personally. You'll find yourself more pissed off than you need to be.

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                        • #13
                          I'm looking for cheap but solid,so...... how 'bout the YJ swap? how difficult? Does a CJ tailgate work in there? Do the CJ fenders & hood work, or is it a wholesale swap? Can the CJ dash be used? I don't care for the family roll bar- kids are grown, I have no friends.
                          And do all the dooddads that gotta go through the front line up- like the steering column and all the other stuff that I've never moved around before?

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by 84MSRB
                            I'm looking for cheap but solid,so...... how 'bout the YJ swap? how difficult? Does a CJ tailgate work in there? Do the CJ fenders & hood work, or is it a wholesale swap? Can the CJ dash be used? I don't care for the family roll bar- kids are grown, I have no friends.
                            And do all the dooddads that gotta go through the front line up- like the steering column and all the other stuff that I've never moved around before?

                            there are a couple write ups out there. Your biggest problems will be if you use a cj dash is the defrosters and a couple body mounts need to be moved, nothing hard. No welding is required.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by pghjeeper
                              The steel is 10x more durable than glass and it just looks right. I had a glass Jeep and I just didn't like it off-road I always felt lik I was going to bump something and crack it.
                              I have had my last two jeeps on there side, both had fiberglass bodies from 4WDH. The tubs did not crack at all! The first one did have a small (6") area that had very light cracks in the gel coat but that was it. Both times I cracked the fender but that is a easy fix. I can just amagine how the jeeps would have looked if they had steal bodies on them. Also...both times I took out the windshield frame and glass. First one had fiberglass, second one steel.
                              I love the fiberglass tubs for there strenght and NO RUST!!!

                              Couple pics of the second jeep. Hard to tell from these pics but the fender has two 2 1/2-3" cracks and the hood is scratched deep into the gel coat.
                              http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...05_29_full.jpg
                              http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...05_28_full.jpg

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