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  • Stop the Gas Tank leak

    I haven't seen anything posted on how to stop a very slow gasoline leak on a tank. If I can have my preference, I would like to put a paste on or do something other than weld on the tank as it is in place. The leak is a very slow one on one corner, so slow that it has a drip hangin on but no puddle beneath. It is only wet at the drip.

    Please give me a simple solution. Can I braze on the steel tank without starting a fire?

  • #2
    Epoxy

    No fire

    Comment


    • #3
      If the tank is empty you shouldn't have much of a fire...just a big explosion! A full tank will = fire. In my opinion whatever you do to fix it will be just temporary. You will need to buy a new tank eventually. You could try to screw in a screw with a rubber washer, that should last awhile.

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      • #4
        Went to epoxy and found that when I used the wire brush, the paint seemed to be all that was holding in the gas. Good thing I had to take the tank shield off to replace the rear springs and found the "small leak". Three pin sized holes were there and I used JB Weld to fix, on the dry metal of course. Waited overnight to fill the tank back up with gas and holding so far.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Scott'sCJ
          Went to epoxy and found that when I used the wire brush, the paint seemed to be all that was holding in the gas. Good thing I had to take the tank shield off to replace the rear springs and found the "small leak". Three pin sized holes were there and I used JB Weld to fix, on the dry metal of course. Waited overnight to fill the tank back up with gas and holding so far.
          Glad to hear that you found the problems.

          If the JB doesn't hold, hit your local truck stop...they'll have some tank putty that's specifically designed to fix your problem. But I doubt you'll have an issue...JB kicks ***

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          • #6
            do the deed, drop the tank and replace it.

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            • #7
              Ditto...

              Originally posted by FUBAR
              do the deed, drop the tank and replace it.

              Do a poly tank. 4WD has a nice twenty gallon, or twenty one, can't remember which, maybe both, and the sending unit to make the gauge accurate. You're only going to bust another leak and as with many things JEEP, it will happen at the WORST possible time. The poly tank won't rust and isn't that hard to install ('that hard to install' is a 'relative' term) after you get the old bolts out.

              Comment


              • #8
                Remembered Something...

                Scott,

                I recommended the twenty or twenty-one gallon tank. This tank will sit lower in the Jeep frame than the original fifteen gallon tank. (Don't know which capacity your model currently has.) However, if you go with the larger tank and your rear springs aren't in good shape the rear differential housing cover will rub against the parts used to install the larger tank when you hit bumps/rocks/ditches...etc. (Thought I'd throw that in before you found out the hard way... which is the way I found out...) Had to do a cheapy shackle lift due to financial woes. Good luck, Scott.

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                • #9
                  Patched the leak. Replaced the tank guard beneath, shielding all rocks, mud, etc. Hoping it holds. Like the idea of having a plate shielding the 15 gal. tank. Not sure one is available for the larger tank...

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                  • #10
                    Tank Guard

                    Scott, if you change your mind or get another leak, you use the same tank guard that you have now on the larger tank. You'll get what amounts to a spacer kit that requires use of the existing tank guard. Good luck with your leak/s.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by blackwater
                      Scott, if you change your mind or get another leak, you use the same tank guard that you have now on the larger tank. You'll get what amounts to a spacer kit that requires use of the existing tank guard. Good luck with your leak/s.
                      This is a great kit for a DD. However like Blackwater says you need to make sure that you have enough clearence because it does hang low.

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                      • #12
                        As this CJ will never be a DD as long as I own it, the 13+ gal tank hangs low enough. Do not want to drag any lower than my tow hitch behind the jeep. Waiting to rip it off before going to something more exotic.

                        [IMG]

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                        • #13
                          You could go with the older style gas tank and get rid of the one in the rear.
                          Of course that means you are sitting on the gas tank.

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                          • #14
                            If you can find it, Polysulfide Rubber is ideal for sealing holes in fuel tanks. It is not affected by fuel or solvents, and can be applied to a leaking spot while wet if necessary. Originally developed by Thiolkol and often referred to by that "generic" name, it will seal your leak easily and permanently when applied IAW manufacturers directions.

                            It is used in the construction of both new and rebuilt tracked military vehicles, such as the ones you see on the TV news in pics from Iraq.

                            It is available in 2-component type, or premixed (pre-mix is often frozen at -50* F!! ) It has a fairly short shelf life and a VERY short pot life.

                            It is applied by brush or nipple-type applicator. It is the consistency of runny RTV, sets up vert rubbery like RTV, but is VERY tough!!

                            It's probably pretty expensive, and may be hard to find
                            unless you have access to an industrial consumables supplier...
                            but it's great stuff!!

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