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  • rust 1" body lift and lights

    I finished the majority of the rust repair this weekend. replaced the rear crossmember and installed the Prothane 1" Body lift.

    getting the old crossmember out was a trick. The PO welded the piece of clap bumper directly to the crossmember. (stitch welded across the top) We ended up taking out the back 8 body bolts out, and jacked up the rear of the whole body (about 5") with a body jack (pretty cool tool I didnt know my brother had) , but my brother was a 'surgeon' (his word )with a torch. Once we got that off, and the frame cleaned up, we straightened the gas tank skid, and welded the new crossmember to the frame, (and the spring hangers too, broke off the nuts trying to get the bolt out). The body lift wasnt a three hour driveway job, but that was probably because we took so many out at once. (note to self: If you weld the nut back on while the mount is bolted up, it will melt , luckily not too much ) We had to move the fan shroud down 1" also. There were also two body brackets above the gas tank we couldn't (didn't) put back on.

    It surprised me how well it drove after the body lift, I didn't even get it aligned. I did notice the gear shifter was not where my hand expected it to be. Still getting used to that. I was also surprised how big a 1" BL was. There is almost too much light under the body. But w/o the flares i have 8 or 9 inches from the tire to the steel. Now I'm dreaming 3" susp lift, flat fender and 35s

    I also put the new tailights on, and that fixed all my light/blinker problems. grounding is everything. Except when I turn left, the blinkers don't autoshutoff any more... turning right still works fine. im sure something is screwed up in the column.

    I still have one small rust hole to patch(under the rollbar), then some grinding, a little bondo, and a coat of paint and I'm golden.

    maybe one of these days I'll get to wheel it instead on just repair it.

  • #2
    Gettin' there...

    You're gettin' it done, CFTJ. Sometimes it helps me when I sit and think about what I've done instead of all I have left to DO.

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    • #3
      Great, now you need to think about doing a 3/4 motor and tranny lift. Give you more room under your jeep.

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      • #4
        turn signal issue

        take your horn button off, the little tong your horn wire hooks into should be at 10:30-11:00 if it isn't that is your problem. yes steering columns have to be timed to cancel properly. if that is ok then you can look under the wheel and dust cap for a spring at about 7:00 it should be flat and the plastic has a catch in it to hold it in place if it is not there or in place properly that is your problem.

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        • #5
          go to this site for help dissassembling column. it shows nice pics.

          http://www.epiccomputer.com/dale/jee...tilt/tilt.html

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