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  • overheating

    I've got a '77 with a howell fuel injected 360, and when i'm normal driving down the road it runs fine. but as soon as i go offroad to the trails and have to idle for long periods of time it over heats quickly and then when i give it gas it sputters like it has no power and sometimes it dies. i know when it sputters it loses a lot of power because if i wait until it is cool again and try the same obstical it can make it over. what could be the possible problems? thanks in advance

  • #2
    Check your fan, it may be loose, or the fan clutch may be going out. The amount of air flow moving down the road keeps you cool, but not enough air movement off road (slow speeds). Try going up a steep grade to see if it overheats then. Mine is getting hot recently too, but it does it charging up a long highway hill OR slow offroad. I think it's my thermostat, not sure yet haven't changed it. I'm guessing the sputtering is vapor lock - mine does it too when it gets hot. Fuel lines run right next to the block; wait, I'm carburated your not. Well my fuel lines run right next to the block and get too hot when the engine bay is that warm. I'm going to find some insulation and wrap them. That won't fix the overheating, but should help the coughing/choking.

    How do you like the Fuel Injection? My in-laws are thinking about going that route.



    • #3
      You might try an oil cooler also. They are not too expensive and a breeze to install. My buddy with an early Toyota Land Cruiser put a Ford radiator and fans assembly on his roof rack and ran heater hoses to it. Butt ugly - but it worked. Got it at a junkyard cheep.

      As far as the sputtering:

      I've gotta agree with mjo79. It sounds like vapor-lock. The fuel in the line gets hot enough to vaporize. I've seen countless rides do it. Mine would do it at altitude under a load. I fixed it by re-locating the fuel pump away from the tail pipe. If you can't move the lines wrap 'em like mjo79 said. Header wrap or engine compartment foil/fiberglass insulation maybe. A sheet metal heat-shield might help too.

      Good luck


      • #4
        thanks for the ideas. that gives me a couple of things to look at. vapor lock sounds like that would make sense. the fuel injection is great. when i bought the jeep it had it on so i don't know how much better it is over carb. i work next to a machine shop and they told me that i would gain more power by switiching over to carb. the one that can be used offroad at up to like a 45 degree angle without stalling. its i think 400 bucks. i might switch over but i'm not sure. Another question i have is that the motor has the edelbrock intake on it and a bigger cam (i don't know the specs) but the computer for the fuel injection has never been recalibrated. should i send it to howell and have them tweek it to my motor more???


        • #5
          There is a lot of power to be gained by reprograming the chip, especially since the FI is most likely a retrofit from a generic GM application. Personally I would request that Howell send a recalibrated chip, and keep the old one in case th enew one does not work quite right, or if you want to get some economy durring the winter months.

          Check your timing as well, if it is too far retarded, then that can cause overheating too. Do you have a fan shroud? if not, get one, they really do help. Also what size fan are you running, 18-19 inches I hope. Do you have headers or just manifolds? If you have headers, you had better wrap them with some heat tape to keep the heat out of the engine compartment.

          The sputering could be the computer entering the "limp home mode" They will do that sometimes if the detect a severe overheat problem. GM figured it would be better to limp home with little or no power than to blow up the engine trying to go home under full power with a serious problem.


          • #6
            i've got two fans in it. one that turns on when needed and one that i can manually turn on when it starts to overheat but even then i doesn't help that much maybe a few degrees. also i have manifolds. how can i explain to howell what i've got if i don't know cam specs?


            • #7
              Is that a 2, 3, or 4 core radiator? What size are your two fans? Are they both electric? can you see light through the radiator cores?

              Without the cam specs, Howell prolly won't be able to do much at all for you. You could guess and say a stage one RV, but it is hit or miss on weither you are right, and weither they will be able to optimize anything for you. If you can still contact the P.O. it might be worth it to find out just how he built the motor. If you know what shop it was built in, they may know. (how many fuel injected 360s you supose they built?)


              • #8
                I agree with the above, you probably don't have a big enough radiator. 77's didn't come with a 360, I don't think. You probably need a 4 core to keep it cool, especially in this weather. And I can speak for the whole nation being as it's around 100 everywhere



                • #9
                  Originally posted by High5
                  I agree with the above, you probably don't have a big enough radiator. 77's didn't come with a 360, I don't think. You probably need a 4 core to keep it cool, especially in this weather. And I can speak for the whole nation being as it's around 100 everywhere

                  Dude, no Cj ever came with a 360.


                  • #10
                    its got a 4 core aluminum rad. i will check the fans tonight. is it blade to blade or middle to blade?


                    • #11
                      Before you get in to far with everything else, make sure your radiator is COMPLETELY full. with the undersized radiators in the things any loss of pressure in radiator directly effects the cooling efficiency of the coolant, with that also check the radiator cap to be sure it is holding proper pressure, aaand to go further if you were to use an extended life coolant (automotive grade being gm dexcool) it would help as well being the coefficiant of cooling in extended life coolant is greater the the not so usefull green. just some stuff easier and cheaper to look into.


                      • #12
                        I don't know if anybody alse knows this but when I ordered my oem 3 row radiator for my '86 the rad shop said it was the same one the Ford Pinto used.

                        That's typical.

                        Anyway - A bit of useless trivia.