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  • installing a manifold

    What is the best way to install an edelbrock intake manifold to a 304 block? Do you use the front and rear gaskets supplied with out any RTV, just run a thick bead of RTV with out the gaskets that are supplied, or both gasket & RTV? Also on the valley pan do you put RTV on the front and back? Thanks for any advice you may offer.

  • #2
    Wow, it has been a while.
    If I remember right you are supposed to put just a dab of RTV black at the corners of the intake. I put a very thin bead on the vally pan around the water ports to make sure I don't get a leak, but I don't think this is a FSM procedure.

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    • #3
      Perfect timing BUM. I'm am doing the same thing this week. Per the edelbrock instructions that came with my manifold, you do not use the rubber gaskets on the ends. You are supposed to "Apply a 1/4" thick ribbon of sealant (RTV high temp) across each end seal surface." As far as the water jackets it says, "apply a small amount of RTV sealant around water passsages intake manifold side." I personaly have not done one yet, this will be the first. I have been around with my friends swapping out manifolds and I cant remember seeing them using the rubber end gaskets with the edelbrock intake, only the RTV. Hope this helps.

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      • #4
        Thanks Tom, I'll be doing mine sometime this week also, when I set the manifold on for a test fit it looks like I have a 3/8" or bigger gap, just wondering if this is normal.

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        • #5
          most people just use RTV, no gaskets. it actually seals better than the rubber, but you need more patience. if you use the rubber gaskets, you still need RTV on the ends of the gaskets where the heads meet the block.

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          • #6
            I dont know about that big of a gap. I'll post again when I go tp put mine on and tell you whether mine is different or not.

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            • #7
              Thanks again Tom, please keep me posted on how yours went & I'll recheck mine to make sure I had it all the way down.

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              • #8
                forgot to mention that any engine builder/machine shop i've ever dealt with has never used the rubber gaskets on an engine i've seen from them. i think they come with the valley pans for people that are scared of using the RTV.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Tom74'CJ-5
                  I dont know about that big of a gap. I'll post again when I go tp put mine on and tell you whether mine is different or not.
                  Just my opinion as I have done this already you will need every bit of 1/4". If there is a low spot from not enough sealant, it will leak. If it is too thick it will ooze out, I let it dry the trimed the excess off. I figured I wanted to do it once so too much was better than not enough, within reason of course.

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                  • #10
                    most manufacturers use gaskets instead of RTV, however, I like to use RTV on all the ones I do. Put a big thick bead on there right up onto the corners of the intake gaskets. When you set the manifold in place try not to move it around at all, just take a quick look and make sure that you can see the sealer touching up against the manifold and you will be ok. also, do not put it on the edges of the valley pan, there is no reason for that. also, do not use the sealer if the gaskets you are using have the blue beads on them, they do not require sealer, if the gaskets you have are just plain jane type use a very thin layer, very thin, just barely coat them. Most importantly, make sure you get the gaskets on properly, many of them are meant to be installed with a particular side facing up. they will say right on them "this side up" if that is the case.

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                    • #11
                      Use the gaskets and RTV

                      I installed the ultra gasket kit, including a dab of RTV at the end tabs. The reason for the dab is the extra seal and also to hold it in place when you are installing the manifold. There is nothing worse than seeing a leak after all that work. If you have more than a 1/4" of gap you need to see if the top end is possibly warped. I installed the edel on my new 350 chevy. You can always buy a quailty seal at JEG'S or other parts place, not just the generic brand.

                      Dana

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                      • #12
                        Thanks guys for the input, I rechecked my manifold gap & it looks like its about 1/4". So I will be putting the black RTV on for the end seals. Also it sounds like I need to put a thin layer on both sides of the valley pan gasket around the water jacket area.?

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                        • #13
                          I just installed my intake manifold using the black RTV for the end seals, looks like it turned out fine. What I did was I took the cap off of the RTV & put a thick bead down then put the tube on the cap & put a thin layer on top of the thick layer, looks nice & clean. Want know for sure until I start it. The motor is now about 97% complete, just need to run wires and hoses. For those of you that don’t know I’m in the process of swapping out a 258 for a 304. I had the motor bored 40 over, installed a HE 286 Comp. Cam, Edel manifold, Edel 600 cfm carb. & a TFI/ HEI system. Man I can’t wait to fire this thing up. So far the cost is twice as much & the time is twice as long as I thought it would be. Will try to install it this week end, Thanks a lot guys for all your help & advice so far, I’m sure I’ll be asking more question before I’m finished.

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                          • #14
                            i just did the exact same thing to my 86 CJ. had a 258, rebuilt a 304 and swapped it. mine is also .040 over, edlebrock cam/performer intake, holley truck avenger, bomb proof mounts, flow kooler water pump and some other stuff i just can't think of at the moment. i ran into three problems that gave me a hard time.

                            1. they used clutches with two different spline hole diameters for my engine. i didn't know this and neither did the parts counter when i got the first one. i spent 3 days trying to get that engine in. even pulled the tranny/tcase and tried to mate them on the garage floor. finally figured it out when i took my spline alignment tool and stuck it in the old clutch plate.

                            2. the power steering fittings didn't match up. i found out that you can just swap fittings by unscrewing them out of the back of the pump and swapping them.

                            3. when i put the HEI dist in, it called for no washers/gaskets/spacers. it does need them. i would recommend at least two gaskets or a spacer. my dist would spin in the timing cover and it ate up the dizzy and cam drive gears.

                            if you run in to any other problems, just shoot me a message and i'll help you out.

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                            • #15
                              Thank Fubar, already been through #1 & #2, done the same thing while reinstalling the 258 in the donor jeep, spent 3 days trying to get it to fit before we realize what the problem was.

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