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  • MC2100 HELP Please!!!

    I have removed the old carter crap and am going to install the 2100. I need as much detailed advice as possible. Where things get hooked up to on this carb mostly. PCV? Carb bowl vent? Matzilla told me that I only need my charcoal canister and the EGR to remain intact. The only thing I see from the charcoal canister is the carb bowl vent which I have no idea where to hook it to. As for the EGR that really doesn't hook into the carb at all right? Where will the PCV hook to and can I run a new vacuum line from the distrubtor to the carb? Can you tell that I am new to this shtuff?

    Thanks in advance.

    Geep

  • #2
    I'm assuming you're going to put this on a 232 or 258?

    Looking at a Chiltons manual, I can try to guide you on how the hook-ups go for PCV, EGR, etc. and I can post pictures after I quit procrastinating and finish my homework. Once I find my Tech manual for 1973, I'll put up some more detailed descriptions.

    On a 73-74, EGR goes from the valve to a coolant over-ride switch, T'd to two vacuum temp modulators, and the coolant over-ride switch sends the EGR to the carb, close to the accelerator pump.

    Ported vacuum to the distributor goes to a seperate over-ride switch, to a vacuum valve, to the right side of the carburetor (opposite side the linkage). You can probably bypass this and go straight to it, it shows on the diagram above the carb area 'Carb Ported Vacuum'.

    PCV goes straight from the valve to the back of the carburetor.

    As for the charcoal canister, I can't tell you because I can't find a diagram in this book, but once I get my '73 TSM back I'll get back to you on it.

    There may be a little module thing on the accelerator linkage. Again, I'll get back to you on this as well when I find the 73 TSM.

    You should also keep in mind that the choke on some of these is a heat operated. There is a spot for a heat tube to go in to, don't remember quite where it is.

    If you need any diagrams let me know and I'll shoot you a PM or email or something, just tell me what year the carb is and your Jeep/motor and all and I can send you the diagrams for it. Carb identification is easy, there should be a little tag. For example, "3DA2" is on it, that means it's a 73, 2 barrel carb. Also what you already have for emissions (TCS, EGR, etc.)
    Last edited by Matt73Commando; 11-09-2008, 07:27 PM.

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    • #3
      Sorry guys. 1984 cj7 with 258 and all the emission bs under the hood.

      Comment


      • #4
        Check with the state laws on that emissions stuff. Don't know where you are, but here in CT anything over 25 years of age does not need emissions tests or inspections. Hence I have the EGR blocked off, all the vacuum emissions bypassed, and all of that. Only vacuum i use is for the pvc, vac. advance and brake booster.

        I'll have to post up what I have tomorrow for you, for what your jeep has now vs. what the MC2100 had for the similar year, to see if you can get it to work with everything, or at least where to hook up the certain vacuum lines and junk. That guy may be right, I don't know as I'm more familiar with the 72-73 versions of the emissions junk. Maybe someone else can shed some light.

        Hope it helped at all

        Comment


        • #5
          Mat,

          I am in PA and since I don't drive over 5k per year I do not have emissions. Anything you can provide will be awesome. Thanks!

          Comment


          • #6
            I found this info helpful when I did mine.

            #4
            the Captain
            daily vinyl burns




            Join Date: Dec 2006
            Location: Greensboro, NC in a jeep down by the river
            Posts: 933

            --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

            the first thing you have to understand is the difference between ported vacuum and manifold vacuum...manifold vacuum is pure vacuum straight from the intake manifold, full pressure, crazy suction...its good for your PCV and brake booster...ported vacuum is a softened sort...there should be none at idle and as RPM's increase it does so as well...think dizzy advance and EGR...an easy way to test for manifold vacuum is simply to run the engine and pull the lines or plugs off at idle...if theres vacuum its almost always manifold vacuum....now check these things out

            heres a great diagram to start with...its by John Strenk


            and heres a good website that you can get info on the different vacuum lines and their routing
            http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/misc/vacuumhoses.html

            heres a sweet guide called "Adventures Under the Hood", one of the most useful reference guides around
            http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/home.htm

            good luck!!!

            Comment


            • #7
              the picture didn't show up. Search vacuum diagram on the forum and check out the original post that I tried to put up here for you. Look at the routing in the pic. Enjoy!

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              • #8
                Just went and looked at mine. All that's going into my carb is the PCV, plugged into the big port on the back side of the carb, and the vac advance from the dizzy. The EGR was already plugged when I got the Jeep, I do have one port left I could plug it into, but when I got the carb, it was plugged off already, so I just left it.

                I thought about hooking the EGR back in, but haven't yet. I don't have anywhere I could hook the charcoal canister into.

                Comment


                • #9
                  heres a pic from the Adventures Under the Hood website...there's where you hook up the canister purge signal...i don't have a bowl vent on my carb either so i just plugged the spot for it on the canister...hook the tee'd line up along with the distributor vacuum from the carb

                  http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/cto-diag.png

                  the TVS will not be hooked up so you can plug that port on the CTO as well if your not running the EGR...i would suggest you do as it will help keep temps down in the combustion chamber and burn off nitrogen oxides as well...just hook in straight to the CTO...also check and see what type of choke setup your carb has...mine has provisions for a heater tube and a vacuum line...i plugged em both but would like to figure a way to use em

                  http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/vac-egr.png

                  there certainly could be a few changes made to it i guess but that setup has worked well for me
                  Last edited by the Captain; 11-10-2008, 11:32 PM.

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                  • #10
                    Thanks a million guys! I am going to get to it this weekend.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by the Captain View Post
                      heres a pic from the Adventures Under the Hood website...there's where you hook up the canister purge signal...i don't have a bowl vent on my carb either so i just plugged the spot for it on the canister...hook the tee'd line up along with the distributor vacuum from the carb

                      http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/cto-diag.png

                      the TVS will not be hooked up so you can plug that port on the CTO as well if your not running the EGR...i would suggest you do as it will help keep temps down in the combustion chamber and burn off nitrogen oxides as well...just hook in straight to the CTO...also check and see what type of choke setup your carb has...mine has provisions for a heater tube and a vacuum line...i plugged em both but would like to figure a way to use em

                      http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/vac-egr.png

                      there certainly could be a few changes made to it i guess but that setup has worked well for me
                      The above referenced site:http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/list.htm

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Here's the best write up I've come across. It's very detailed, and addresses the installation of the MC2100 onto the 258, including how to hook up the throttle linkage. (large PDF)


                        http://www.esnips.com/doc/cfc42c48-1...52f87/MC2100-5

                        I also removed my emissions, blocked the EGR (becuase it was fualty, otherwise I'd have left it) and removed the evap cannister.

                        The 'Nutter Bypass' is also a good idea, if everything is still 'stock' (as in the distributor and ECU (computer) )


                        http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/ele...jn-ignition99/

                        Hope this helps! It's a fairly easy swap, and one of the best upgrades I've done to my CJ. HB

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Right on HillBillE!! That is an excellent write up.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by GEEP View Post
                            Right on HillBillE!! That is an excellent write up.

                            The kudo's go to 'COAS' on the other forum our host's own:http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums...splay.php?f=36

                            He has some great write ups for CJ's.

                            And the 'Nutter bypass' info comes directly from Mr. Nutter, he's done some great write ups on CJ's and flat fenders also.

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                            • #15
                              Ok, so I got the carb installed and fired the jeep up this afternoon. Started up and I knew right away that I did the right thing with the MC2100. It idled stronger and just sounded healthier. I do know that I have a few vacuum leaks to tend to thought.

                              The carb I have is a non smog one and I plugged the carb bowl vent to canister at the canister. I pulled all the plugs from the EGR and plugged the EGR itself. What should I do about the air tubes from the original air cleaner assembly? One goes down the passenger side and underneath and connects to the exhaust pipe. The other goes down the drivers side and connects into the cat converter. Can I just plug these? IF so where would your recommend?

                              One other question is on the SOL (I think that is what the manual calls them) located on the back of the valve cover. What do I need and what can I get rid of?

                              Lastly, is it possible that I do not have a CTO on this? 1984 CJ original 258 but I am not the original owner.

                              Thanks for all the help!
                              Geep
                              Last edited by GEEP; 11-15-2008, 09:59 PM.

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