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  • 4wd 3" lift

    I was reading on 4wd about their 3" lift kit for the 1997-2002 lift and it says that 4wd recomends a slip yoke eliminator kit and a new rear driveshaft for YJ's and TJ's with a 3" lift or more. I'm just wondering if you guys who run these lifts use the slip yoke eliminator kit, and get a new rear driveshaft.

  • #2
    All rigs are different, some will need a SYE and a new driveshaft because the vibes are unbearable and some can get by with just the T-Case drop.

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    • #3
      My 3" 4WDH lift just arrived and goes on next week on my 99 TJ. After much research, reading (here) and emails, I'm going ahead with the SYE & driveshaft upgrade-- that comes next week... then the Visa bill comes next month :-O

      Other folks with more experience than me will weigh in on this I'm sure, and 4WDH says it is not an absolutely nec. with their lift, but it just seems to be the best thing to do for a number of reasons. And I just don't want to have to mess with it again, and while my TJ is "on the rack" I might as well do it. There is a lot of discussion right here on the subject if you dig for it.

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      • #4
        good luck with the lift install assume you are doing it yourself!!! My '94 went on fairly easy I never did one before, was an experience. Would help and do another though. Again good luck installing it

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        • #5
          Yeah we recommend it but its not necessary. I ran my 3" kit for almost a year before I decided to do the SYE kit and rear driveshaft. Put it on first and see how your jeep rides. You can always add it later.

          Congrats on the kit. You'll love it. I know I did.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by TJMagoo
            Yeah we recommend it but its not necessary. I ran my 3" kit for almost a year before I decided to do the SYE kit and rear driveshaft. Put it on first and see how your jeep rides. You can always add it later.

            Congrats on the kit. You'll love it. I know I did.
            And, Kupe is still running TJMagoo's old lift without a SYE or t-case drop without any problems.

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            • #7
              Chiming in...


              Running one now for 2 years w/o SYE. No problems at all. You'll love the lift! Any questions PM me.

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              • #8
                My .02

                4 of us run that same lift w/o an SYE, and wheel it too...no problems at all

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                • #9
                  ok thanks, but what about the new rear drive shaft is that necessary? And I know it comes with a transfer case drop kit, but do you need the drop pitman arm?(I know that question has came up alot before,but i just wanna get it straight )

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by us_ranger8824
                    ok thanks, but what about the new rear drive shaft is that necessary? And I know it comes with a transfer case drop kit, but do you need the drop pitman arm?(I know that question has came up alot before,but i just wanna get it straight )
                    No new DS for me. And I did use the new PA that came with the lift. I paid for it so I used it. LOL

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                    • #11
                      I just put this lift on last weekend, here's what I've learned...

                      I put the dropped pitman arm on because I figured it came with the lift for a reason, it was paid for, and I wanted to avoid any problems with the steering. I had a hell of a time getting the old one off. I broke two pitman pullers (the second one even after heating the arm), a pickle fork was useless, so finally I cut the thing off with a torch, figuring I wouldn't be needing it again.

                      My Jeep doesn't have cam bolts, and the brackets for the control arms aren't equipped to add them. Rather than cobble the brackets to make cam bolts work, I just ordered adjustable lower control arms. Be mindful of this potential expense in case you need them. I can't get those put on and aligned until next Saturday, so until then I get to enjoy the white-knuckle handling and noise from my misaligned pinions/u-joints.

                      The instructions apparently had me move my front track bar too far, and now the front driveshaft bumps the exhaust when I flex. I'm putting on an adjustable track bar tomorrow to fix this. When you perform this step, err on the low side when you drill the new hole. An 1/8" less and I probably wouldn't have needed a new track bar. This may only be a problem on 97s, I believe the exhaust manifold is a little different than later years.

                      IMO, the transfer case drop looks like crap and it subtracts over an inch of clearance. I'm running it for now, but I may try removing it once the control arms are on, aligned, and the pinions are straightened out. That'll eliminate that as a source of vibes. Eventually, I'll probably get the SYE/driveshaft combo. Part of my problem may be that I'm not running with a rear seat, and I have yet to do something about mounting my spare, so my rear end is higher than normal, increasing the rear driveshaft angle. If I weigh down the back with the spare and something like a tool box, I could maybe get away without the TC drop. Then again, I like the added clearance on the fuel tank skid. What's worth more, breakover or departure angle? I haven't wheeled it hard enough to find out yet.

                      Other than these issues, I'm happy with the ease of installation and the ride quality. If any experts want to correct me on anything, go ahead...I'm still figuring this all out as I go along.
                      Last edited by muddymoose; 08-03-2005, 10:21 PM.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by muddymoose
                        I could maybe get away without the TC drop. Then again, I like the added clearance on the fuel tank skid. What's worth more, breakover or departure angle? I haven't wheeled it hard enough to find out yet.
                        In my opinion, departure angle is more important. Willness33 & I were talking the other day about lines through/over obstacles. Most often you're putting you tires on the big rocks, therefore, you're not hitting the center of the Jeep as often as the rockers. You do however drop off of a ledge that will contact the rear gas tank/bumper, etc. Idealy, I'd want as much clearance in all areas as possible, but if I had to choose, I'd pick approach & departure over breakover.

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                        • #13
                          Actually, evil, my friend, I think breakover angle is more important. I know we discussed it in length and I also know that I havent been seriously hung up on my t-case skid yet, but if you have a stout rear bumper you can drag it off obstacles. For me, I'm more concerned with approach angle. If you'd see my front bumper, you'd know why.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by willness33
                            Actually, evil, my friend, I think breakover angle is more important. I know we discussed it in length and I also know that I havent been seriously hung up on my t-case skid yet, but if you have a stout rear bumper you can drag it off obstacles. For me, I'm more concerned with approach angle. If you'd see my front bumper, you'd know why.
                            You hit that front bumper hard enough, you might go over frontward. Can you say solid?!!!

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                            • #15
                              wow thanks for all the info, but what is the purpose for the t case drop and the drop pitman arm, and all the other stuff we were talking about. I'm 15 so give me a break.

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