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  • CJ Lifts: Spring Under vs. Spring Over

    I have an 81 cj7 with a 1 inch body lift and I want to run 33's on it. I have the stock Dana 30 front and AMC 20 rear with solid axle shafts. What would you recommend for a lift? I've heard both good and bad for spring under and spring over lifts. Thanks.

  • #2
    I would recommend the 4WD Hardware 2.5" lift. They ride really well and you will fit the 33's no problem.

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    • #3
      I would not go for a spring over. I had a 1 inch lift on my CJ and 33s, on road it was ok, off road I had some interference, of course. Got about 2 inches of lift now and had no problems since with the 33s. Ok, now I am at 31s and back to one inch lift due to the regulations over here but that's a different story...

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      • #4
        If all you want to run is 33's stick with the SUA, 2-4" lift will be fine, the 2 1/2" pro comp is awesome. It rides nice and flexes well, I just took one off my rig and put on a 4" BDS it also rides nice but flexes like crap. So I would suguest a 2 1/2" lift for 33's. THe sua will be cheaper and have less issues with spring wrap and drive shafts etc.

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        • #5
          Over-Under

          I have to agree with all the above. I had a spring over for two years on my CJ7, Just switched to a 3" lift (BlackDiamond-4WDH) and a 1' bodylift. The ride difference is amazing! Both the on road charicteristics and off road flex are great. With no axle wrap, very common on springovers. The springover was easy to do for me, but now that I've driven my Jeep with both set-ups, I'll always go with a spring under lift. Good luck

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          • #6
            I couldn't disagree more with the above. I have ran both 2.5" and 4" spring under lifts before and finally fabricated a SOA lift last year using stock CJ rears on all corners. The ride both on and off road is a night and day difference for the better. It flexes much better so is much more capable on the trails also. I'm running 33" boggers, dana 30 with arb, rear 20 thats welded, trusted, 1 pieced and a detroit both filled with 4.56 gears. Also...axle wrap is not a problem if you stay under 35s. I haven't had any problem with axle-wrap, but do have plans to build a Bam-bar. On top of all this, I think I spent about $200 on it. If you can fabricate.....go with a Spring Over!

            I built a short ramp to measure for shocks. As you can see I could go higher.
            http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...37_22_full.jpg

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            • #7
              If you do go SOA you will have a high steer set up.

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              • #8
                If you do go SOA you will have a high steer set up.
                I ran a drop pitman arm, and stock steering. I had axle wrap w/31s, but I also had a 350 chev and worn out stock spring's, hence the ride. So ther ya go, pro's and con's. Lookin' at MotorHead's Jeep, If it's done right it works good!

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Hill, Bill E
                  ...Lookin' at MotorHead's Jeep, If it's done right it works good!
                  He does make it difficult to argue for spring under, doesn't he, Bill?...LOL I believe at this point though, I'd categorize Motorhead as a Master Jedi... That would be as opposed to my Master Baiter status.

                  CJ7Mudder, if you have only basic skills the spring under is the way to go. (Which Motorhead pointed out, I believe.) I second Busta's advice on the 4WD 2.5" kit. With the 1" body lift you can run the 33s and if all goes well you can do the job in a weekend. (Lotta these guys can do it in a day.)

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                  • #10
                    Hey guys, my opinions have always been in line with Motorheads in the past.
                    But I take calls every day from people trying to sort out handling and steering problems associated with SOA's for street use. I also personally had bad experience with SOA's, were as I ended up with four tires sticking straight up.
                    My reasons to avoid SOA's are as follows: And again these are opinions!
                    1. SOA Raises center of gravity approx. 5" were a 4" SUA is approx 2" increase
                    This is the biggy on short and narrow vehicles like Jeeps.
                    2. Most steering remedies are stab in dark, and usually require some fab and/or more $$ spent on custom stuff.
                    3. Shocks usually require relocation or useing a short shock that limits the added articulation.
                    4. Spring wrap under hard use. I've seen this be a problem with new springs as well as old ones.(Skyjacker suggests the 5TH Link control arm for this problem)

                    My choice is spent $500-$700 and have a bolt on predictable driving Jeep!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Jeez guys...your making me blush here. lol Thanks for the compliments.

                      One thing I did to help control axle-wrap was using two main leafs on the rear packs. I just cut to eyes off and slid them under the main. Also CJs came with either 4,5 or 6 leaf springs...I used a stock 6 leaf in the front and the modified 5 in the rear. You can also buy (or fab) longer spring perches. Like I mentioned, I plan on building a anti-wrap bar which will eliminate any chance of axle-wrap.

                      The front steering is another problem. The only correct way is some sort of "high steer" set up. I raised my stock knuckle to get the drag link above the spring and it works well. I am collecting parts to replace the stock 30 with a 44 high steer, but this set up works great for now.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        spring under vs springover!!

                        Originally posted by MotorHead
                        I couldn't disagree more with the above. I have ran both 2.5" and 4" spring under lifts before and finally fabricated a SOA lift last year using stock CJ rears on all corners. The ride both on and off road is a night and day difference for the better. It flexes much better so is much more capable on the trails also. I'm running 33" boggers, dana 30 with arb, rear 20 thats welded, trusted, 1 pieced and a detroit both filled with 4.56 gears. Also...axle wrap is not a problem if you stay under 35s. I haven't had any problem with axle-wrap, but do have plans to build a Bam-bar. On top of all this, I think I spent about $200 on it. If you can fabricate.....go with a Spring Over!

                        I built a short ramp to measure for shocks. As you can see I could go higher.
                        http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...37_22_full.jpg
                        Gotta agree with motorhead!!!!
                        I used to build Jeeps for a living, a good living! www.GotJeepWeDo.com (Got cancer and had to give up shop.) Most of our build ups were custom. I had a 79 CJ5 with SOA and worked great on/offroad. I used YJ springs, but like MotorHead stated using a main leaf (out of cherokee)as secondary and cutting the eyelet off to where the secondary was as long as the main. Always performed shackle reversal. Also made sure that sway bars were used. Always had great sucsess with this setup. Could run hiway speeds along with flexing offroad. Called this creation my "lil billygoat" Never had a problem with axle wrap using using this setup. Dont get me wrong about buying parts and installing them, but always like saying this is my custom creation......anyone can hang parts.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          http://www.holbrookspecialties.com another 8 owner in NV said they're great springs with a good ride on and off road,he's had then under his 360 V8 powered 8 since 04.spring under
                          Last edited by scr83jp; 09-07-2006, 11:53 PM.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by MotorHead
                            Jeez guys...your making me blush here. lol Thanks for the compliments.

                            The front steering is another problem. The only correct way is some sort of "high steer" set up. I raised my stock knuckle to get the drag link above the spring and it works well. I am collecting parts to replace the stock 30 with a 44 high steer, but this set up works great for now.
                            Motorhead, could you get a close up pic of the mod. that you did to your steering knuckle? Thanks man!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I have to say that this isn't the "correct" way to do a high steer. There are many arguments out there about welding steering knuckes. What I did is pre-heated the knuckle with a torch, welded it up and then wraped fiberglass insulation around it so it cooled very slowly (hour later it was still pretty warm).

                              I raised it 1 1/2" by welding 1 1/4" X 1/4" plate on end and boxing it in with 1/4" plate on top. Drilled tappered holes out to 5/8" and used 5/8" heim joints. I used thick aluminum tube for the steering links whick makes for a pretty stout set up.

                              The drag link cleared with no problems sitting in the garage, but it hit as soon as the front suspension flexed. So I rasied it another 3/4" using a aluminum spacer.

                              I inspect it (along with the rest of the jeep) and lube the heims after every ride. Overall I'm happy with it and it works great.

                              Here is a pic.

                              http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...37_13_full.jpg
                              Last edited by MotorHead; 09-11-2006, 03:57 PM.

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