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  • #16
    jonnys99tj, good call on the tub. The kit says it has the tailgate, maybe they could send me that one instead.

    Yeah, I get 5% off, but since I live in Ohio I have to pay sales tax, so I end up paying another 1.75% over the list price for the rest of the sales tax. But, most the time it's still cheaper than the other guys

    Edit:
    Part #5770 is the CJ5 tub w/o the tailgate
    Part #5770K is the kit with the same tub. They used a generic description.
    Part #10110 is the Painless Wiring Replacement Harness
    Last edited by DizzyCJ; 05-13-2008, 02:00 PM. Reason: Update Information

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    • #17
      the glass body was already on when i bought my CJ and the PO told me he got all his parts at 4WD. there is no tailgate on mine. was this available at one time and discontinued? wherever the body came from, i have no complaints about it.

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      • #18
        I'm in the process of finishing my cj5. I've done everything you've done except replace the body. I put a small v8 350 Chevy engine in it. I'm retired also and if you want some long distance help, you can call my cell at 772-285-8730. Your Jeep buddy, John

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        • #19
          My CJ5 has no tailgate either. I don't have a back seat usually because I don't think it's safe for anyone to ride back there. So I don't miss the tailgate.

          Don't forget to get the Stainless Steel mounting kit. I've had mine on for 2 years now and still look perfect. My old plain steel kit rotted out quickly. Unfortunatly 4WD doesn't sell one but if you go to that other site and type in 22810.75, you will find the one I got quickly. If 4WD makes the best tubs, why don't the sell the best mounting kit?

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          • #20
            Originally posted by John Strenk View Post
            My CJ5 has no tailgate either. I don't have a back seat usually because I don't think it's safe for anyone to ride back there. So I don't miss the tailgate.

            Don't forget to get the Stainless Steel mounting kit. I've had mine on for 2 years now and still look perfect. My old plain steel kit rotted out quickly. Unfortunatly 4WD doesn't sell one but if you go to that other site and type in 22810.75, you will find the one I got quickly. If 4WD makes the best tubs, why don't the sell the best mounting kit?
            They used to, I bought mine from them.
            There is a emblem glassed into the firewall if it is a 4wd tub. At least mine had one.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by Penguin View Post
              They used to, I bought mine from them.
              There is a emblem glassed into the firewall if it is a 4wd tub. At least mine had one.
              Yes mine is on the firewall on the inside on the drivers side.

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              • #22
                For you guys who have replaced your tubs with fiberglass, how long did it actually take you to do it?

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by DizzyCJ View Post
                  For you guys who have replaced your tubs with fiberglass, how long did it actually take you to do it?
                  I will tell you if I can have your old body.
                  Why Are you replacing it?
                  I just looked through your pictures. Is there some major rot I am just not seeing?

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by DizzyCJ View Post
                    For you guys who have replaced your tubs with fiberglass, how long did it actually take you to do it?
                    Tricky question. How good do you want it to look when you're done?

                    Usually when you get the old tub off, you find a lot of work you want to do before you put the new one on.

                    To remove the old tub, a lot of fasteners are rusted and spin and it's time for the blue tip wrench.

                    Then do you want to paint the tub before putting it on? Best time to paint it when it's off. You can get the underside easily.

                    Having done this, and if the frame was ready and if I had everything I need and without any interruptions. It would probably take me a day to put the tub on, drill the holes and wire up the tub.

                    However, I usually think there is a better way to do something and I get distracted and ends up taking me a week or two because of modifications.

                    If you're dilligent, you can probably do it in a weekend but then you would of wished you took your time and did this and that before you put it together. Get someone who did this before help you if you can.

                    Give yourself a weekend to remove the old tub and record were everything goes. Pull the dash with the wiring harness attached. You can just unscrew it from the firewall and pull most of it out as one piece. Dont get rid o the tub right away.

                    Spend a couple days wire brushing the frame and make any smple repairs. And paint the frame. This is were a lot of plans come to a halt when frame damage appears and it's time to make a desision how to proceed with repair.

                    Give your self a couple of nights to replace the brake lines and fuel lines. Plan for future mods right now.

                    Spend a few days to prep and paint the tub if you're going to. Or at least paint the hard to reach parts now.

                    Spend a day aligning and mounting the tub, fenders, grill, hood.

                    Spend a couple of days transfering heater, steering, brake/clutch assembly, dash assembly. You could spend a 1/2 day just on grounds.

                    Seats go in last.

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                    • #25
                      We did mine while doing a complete frame off resto/mod in 1995. Total time was around 8 months during my senior year of high school. Wasn't easy finding time to work on the Jeep with football, basketball, and social time. We didn't rebuild the engine or anything though.

                      You could probably swap bodies in a few days I would imagine. Don't forget to ground the starter solenoid.......ask me how I know


                      High5

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                      • #26
                        Painting underside of tub: I think there is some mould release agent or other unsavory, unstickable, disadhering film on the fiberglass. Some kind of prep is warranted or the paint will peel like a boiled shrimp.

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                        • #27
                          Penguin,
                          Yes, from a distance the body looks decent, but every panel has rust, and most of the panels have already been fixed atleast more than once. If you look under it it's pretty bad in a few spots, the body is collapsing under the passenger seat.

                          I'll have everything already done when I go to actually put the new tub on. I'm building a pretty big list of things to be done including engine/tranny swap, replace the axles, new brakes, custom dash, etc. I'm tearing the whole thing down and I'm going to sandblast the frame and things and POR15 every part that I can

                          More than likely I'm going to have the tub swapped at a local shop. I'm trying to get an idea of how long it'll take them to do it so I can estimate the cost. I figure when it comes time for me to start all of this I'll try bribing friends to use their garage/barn and tools. When it comes time for the big stuff I may offer up my pair of OSU/Michigan tickets.

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                          • #28
                            Get the video.
                            I read they were going to redo this. It would be better if you could get that one, but any one will do.
                            You will want to tie the roll bar into the frame.
                            I did mine in a rolling-frame up, plus I did a lot of custom work, so I took a lot of time.
                            I am currently doing a frame replace as Michigan is tough on frames.
                            There are a good deal of threads on here about replacing the body, might want to do a search.
                            As far as painting, I would rino(or whatever) the bottom(underside), then mount it. Then paint it and have the hood, fenders, grill unattached.
                            I personally would assemble everything before so you have all of your holes drilled. Also if you do this and you mess up it is much easier to fix.

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                            • #29
                              For my CJ& I wnet new frame, fibertub kit and new wiring harness like you. I got everything from 4wd. I will tell you nothing lines up perfectly and my hood was warped so I had it replaced with a Kentrol fiberglass hood. I would recommend to buy the "higher" grade tub to avoid any warping. Check ouot my fickr site for some photos of my issues.......

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                              • #30
                                fiberglass

                                Originally posted by DizzyCJ View Post
                                Well, looks like Shellvalley has fiberglass kits for $1895, and the kit with choice of color Gel Coat for another $1000.

                                The 4wd kit with white Gel Coat is $2425. Sounds like it's built better, and it's cheaper. My ONLY issue is that it sounds like the 4wd kit has the tailgate cut out, which I don't like.

                                I really would like some secure storage, and I really like that under seat box for the passenger side. I wonder if I could have one made and bolt it into the fiberglass tub. As much as I like the aluminum, I think I ruled it out based on the cost.

                                I think I need to call 4wd and ask them about the tailgate in the tub. I also need to ask them what Painless wiring kits I should get to replace all the wiring in it.

                                I also prefer the Kentrol cowl hood at 4wd, but I think I can get some Hood Scoops and achieve the same look for a whole lot less.

                                I think unless I get a really good deal on a steel kit, I'm going to go with fiberglass... Assuming I can find a good kit without the tailgate.
                                I used a Shell Valley and mine came out ok. I went with Shell Valley because it was a little cheaper and I lived less than 150 miles from there so I just trailered it home. The CJ7 model i used had steel where it was needed imbeded around the doors that I drilled and tapped to use my full steel doors on it. The only thing that would have been easier would have it they had the nut inserts installed but I did that myself with a nutsert kit. The grounding issue is not that tough. Get the 4wd install video and it will walk you thought the install.

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