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  • need help quickly please!!

    On the way home from work my rear driveshaft universal joint froze on me.
    I have a replacement and I need to get this changed tomorrow, (wheelin trip in the morning). I can't get the old u-joint out of the driveshaft ears. I have pb blasted it and am currently hitting with a bfh. Are these things pressed in or is it just rusted solid. any help much appreciated

  • #2
    on the drive shafts you can usually just pound them out, i use a 7/16" 1/2" drive impact socket on top and i hit it into a 30mm just to support the shaft and allow the u joint to come out. don't forget the snap rings on theoutside of the u joint

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    • #3
      sounds like you forgot the snap rings witch were a pain in the butt to get out!

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      • #4
        ive changed mine myself a few times. seriouly the hardest part is gettinghte snap rings out without stabing youself! make sure you pack then with greese before you install this will ensure that all the needle bearign stay in place. It can be tricky to get your first tiem i ended up having someone show me as i was doing it. Rob explained it as good as i can good luck and happy wheelin....


        Tread Lightly

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        • #5
          Thanks for the help. I did get the snap rings out first. It is just like it is rusted in place. I am going to soak it in pb blaster some more while i grab a bite. thanks so much for the quick responses. I still can't find my haynes manual.

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          • #6
            I don't pund them out unless I have to.
            Get ya a big A$$ Cclamp and try some constent pressure. If it still holds fast keep the clamp in place and then beat the crap out of it tighten the clamp as it moves.
            good luck
            my 0.02

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            • #7
              Thanks, all of you guys. I am going to call it a night. I went ahead and did some other prep work while I was dirty. I am going to soak it with pb blaster tonight & get up early and get it done. By the way Ratman, I like that idea of using c-clamps.

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              • #8
                I always use a hammer, you just have to be carefull not to hit the shaft, only the yoke area, anything on the yoke side of the welds is ok to hit. i like to use a vise to support the side perpendicular to the one im working on. Ive done it this way 100s of times and never had a problem, check this link, its what i would suggest...


                http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/axle/ujoint/

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                • #9
                  You have to be carefull with the BFH and a lot of pounding. If you bend the ears you'll be an angry person.

                  I use a vise and have never had a ujoin I couldnt get out. Us a very large socket on the recieving side and the 7/16 on the pushing side. Squeze in a vise and pop! it'll come right out. A harbor freight ball joint press does very well also.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by adventure bob
                    You have to be carefull with the BFH and a lot of pounding. If you bend the ears you'll be an angry person.

                    I use a vise and have never had a ujoin I couldnt get out. Us a very large socket on the recieving side and the 7/16 on the pushing side. Squeze in a vise and pop! it'll come right out. A harbor freight ball joint press does very well also.
                    I have the large c clamp type u-joint tool/press and it is invaluable. But when i went to get my d/s lengthened they all used hammers to pound u-joints out. Either works but I like the clamp.

                    I am going to weld up a small press frame for use with a bottle jack for trail repairs. You know you will make a friend when the clamp just won't get it done.

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                    • #11
                      Get yourself one of these:

                      http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/pho...8399/38335.gif

                      http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335

                      Harbor Freight Ball Joint/U-joint press! They are $39.99, but if you wait, you can get them for $29.99 or I've even seen then for $19.99!! I bent mine doing Ball Joints with it, but for u-joints, it makes them SO easy!!

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                      • #12
                        Thanks for all of your advice. I did get it out with a hammer. My concern was that I would bend an ear on the yoke, fortunately I didn't. My next move was to get a ball joint tool from Auto Zone, but I finally overcame. You guys are awsome, it's like having my own personal coaching staff for jeep repair.

                        thanks again

                        by the way I believe I will get a ball joint tool the next time I see one on sale, probably would have saved 45 minutes of work.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Brian78z28
                          I like to use a vise to support the side perpendicular to the one im working on. Ive done it this way 100s of times and never had a problem, check this link, its what i would suggest...


                          http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/axle/ujoint/

                          This is how I did mine. With a vise works great! Using a bigger socket over one side and a smaller socket to push on a bearing cap. An arbor press might work as well getting out the old u-joints.

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